Davidjf

Moderator note:
I have moved these posts from the premix thread as they are related to general motor oil usage, NOT premix. I was inclined to just delete them, but decided to give it a chance. I'll be watching it.
-RIWWP



==========================
What oil do you guys use in the UK?

I've read that 5W 30 is a good all round oil up north in the UK but no specifics on brand or semi synth/full synth

Just wondering what everybody uses/recommends in the UK?

BigGunz

iTrader: (1)

I believe UK owners manual calls for 10W30 if I'm not mistaken however, this is a "Gas/Oil Premix Thread".

Rudolph

In the UK and in Continental Europe (Germany, France, Netherlands, etc) 5W30 is officially recommended by Mazda (service manual).
Most Rex-drivers use this 5W30 however a number of drivers (as me) use 0w40, 5w40 ord 10w40 (10w40 especially in the UK since this viscosity-grade is the advice of Haywards Rotary; o.a. for sufficient lubrication of the excentric shaft).

UK-forum topic: "10W40 or 5W30?
RX8 Owners Club • View topic - 10W40 or 5W30?
Site Hayward Rotary:
Hayward Rotary

BigGunz

iTrader: (1)

I stand corrected. It was list as such in the Aussie manual. Thanks for the correct info Rudolph.
If ever asked I'll pass it on.

sweatr

I did some research and hope this is helpful.

BigGunz

iTrader: (1)

I read your attachment and it was complete and utter Greek. Would you like to break it down "Barney Style". Didn't really tell me anything about the difference b/t dino & syn oils. Then again, I'm no engineer. Hence the previous comment about Barney Style. However, I believe what it says is: Use the proper oil for your type environment and change it often.

@ Malharmemon: I believe you only need to premix about 4 to 5 oz per fill up from a 1/4 of a tank if you're running a cat and not a midpipe. I still have a cat, and I've been advised not to premix more than 4 oz. I'd try that and see how it works for you. I average around 19 MPG's in the city premixing 4 oz of Lucas Oil 2-stroke that I buy from O'Riely's. It's JASO-FC & FD approved. Hope you get it back to where you were.

Anthony

sweatr

Sorry if it is so geek, it is some stuff I found during my research and I thought it would be helpful to some members. I would suggest you just take what you can and leave the rest. Here is some more
sorry about the cut off???. I will go back and find out where I screwed up. I think I can only up load so many Mega bites?.

BigGunz

iTrader: (1)

Yep. I believe the limit is 100 mb per attachment.

sweatr

Maybe this will help: as I said before take what you want and leave the rest

I have some stuff on ratings and all the oprganizations, the why and what for if you will, if you would like me to leave it here?.

sweatr

Good to know ..Thx.

Carbon8

iTrader: (4)

Posts research he did about oil comparisons but when asked a question he can't explain or elaborate on it

If you can't explain what your posting, don't post it. Spamming every oil thread with information you don't understand and has already been discussed at lengths by those who do understand accomplishies one thing. Shows everyone you don't verify your information before you pass it along to others thus rendering all future informative posts from you mute as the information cannot be considered accurate.

kevinande

I am forced to agree with your statements. No to mention the format is extremely tedious to attempt to read.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

Lol...

"i did some research" = "copied wikipedia and put it in a text file"

Next time save yourself some time / posts / attachment space by saying : "Read some **** here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil "

*sigh* ....

sweatr

I posted this because I thought it would be good information to know.I have read this stuff several times and I am sure it will sink in eventually. It does make me look at a bottle of oil differently now. I am just trying to help. I was unaware of any qualification to post what I did?. The information I posted wasn't intended to represent my knowledge, it was presented as here is some stuff I found on the internet that may be of some use to some one, especially the folk asking about oil and who rates it and how. The information there is only for some one to read and take what you want and leave the rest.

I never posted this stuff with the thought I was spamming honestly I was trying to help. It was never intended to represent my knowledge of any thing, it was an offering of what I found that pertains to some of the questions about rating and oil period.

If a moderator thinks I am spamming a thread then he or she will; tell me to remove it and I will comply right away. Until then I am still trying to help and I was unaware I did any thing wrong, take what you like from it and leave the rest, some one just might find some part of it use full.

maxchao

iTrader: (2)

I think the problem here is that you did not cite where you got the information from. The content of what you posted is good, but there were two things that you missed:
1. No citation/link...unless it's your own work you need to give credit to whoever completed the work.
2. txt file format is just cheap...not a good impression.

sweatr

Thank you so much!, I didn't realize, soooooo sorry, in the future I will include all the information I accidently omitted. I agree the work should given credit due and I really wasn't trying to represent it as my work because it is not but I thank you for being honest and telling me where I screwed up. I will correct this issue and there will be future posts but I will correct that.

sweatr

Read the threads on oil and how it is made. I would concur, I would not put slick 50 in my 8 any way. Thicker oil is not better oil for the 8. Most of your oil is too thick at start up and that is where the bulk of engine wear occurs .There is a whole lot more to why thicker isn't better. Again read all the threads on oil , research on line about how oil is made and why it degrades.You need to find out what is in slick 50 then research how it will burn and what is left behind in your combustion chamber?. Read all the threads on oil on this site as well as on line. I would advise you to rethink the slick 50 thing.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

There are many people that would disagree with this statement.

kevinande

I am by no means an expert, and am hesitant to write some of this because I am missing some key information. I can not determine the internal operating temperature of the engine. I'm not speaking of coolant temperature, the actual temperature the irons and rotors see during normal operation under load. To me that is critical because oil helps cool ths engine by as much as 33%. 20w oil is recommended mostly to appease CAFE standards. While at one time I believed that thicker was better for no reason other than it was thicker. After reading on this subject for a while I have come to my own conclusions as have many others here.

While 20w oil is ok, it will hold up to a certain temperature which is well above the point where the engine will be fried if measuring coolant temps. My problem is that I am not sure how the oil flows inside the renesis. I don't know the temperature of the components in which it lubricates and cools. The only figure I have to go on is the 1200 degree + EGT's that the renesis is capable of. If the lubricated components can reach 1/3 of that temperature, then 20w is not up to the task. However I would like to think that the engineers who designed this engine are smarter than that and just because I don't know they certainly do.

Running a higher viscosity oil has the benefits of being able to withstand higher temperatures if needed. It also has the added benefit of increasing oil pressure. If no one thinks that is a benefit, you need only look at the series II.

All that to simply say that your statement "Thicker oil is not better for the 8" is at best your opinion and not a very educated one. you offer no supporting facts or opinions to back up your position. Some of your statements include things such as "search" and "read the threads". I highly recommend you take your own advice. I am not one to bash or flame anyone, however I did feel it necessary to bring this to your attention. I may not be right in my statements above, but at least I offered something. Now if others choose to rip it apart, so be it.

sweatr

There are also many who would agree.

sweatr

After thought and some research today I should have said that thicker oil may or may not be better for the 8 depending on several things like, region area , where you drive for instance. I know that oil of higher viscosity are less likely to flow than a lower viscosity say like cold start up and that the lions share of engine wear occurs at cold start up. I made the wrong statement my bad. I was also addressing the post on the friction reducer and my statement was spoken wrong.

I don't believe in friction reducers depending on whats in them are any good especially with the 8 considering your oil burns and most friction reducers don't burn well at all because most contain polytetrafloroethylene , which is PTFE or Teflon as most of us know it. products like slick-50/liquid ring/lubrilow/microloan/matrix/omi/t-plus(k-mart) to name a few contain PTFE as their base ingredient.

Some one above asked about friction reducers, but I see your point the way I framed my statement, my bad.

I should have started with: Cold start up is where the lions share of engine wear occurs and if your using a higher viscosity it will not flow well at cold start up . If we are interested in engine longevity one could argue that a thicker viscosity oil is not necessarily better. Some folk get confused when they tell you the owners manual says use 10-30 and 0-30 would be too thin.

sweatr

What I ment was thicker oil might not be better than thinner oil I do search threads and not just here. Your engine oil MAY run 212 degrees F at operating temperature ( this is not ment to be specific but broad) and at 212 degrees F your oil is going to have an thickness index of 10 which is what most oils are at operating temperature. I hope you don't think ow-30 is too thin because the owners manuel says 10-30, you might be wrong. It is the start up that put the lions share of wear on your engine because at 302 degrees your oil is at a thickness of 3 and at 212 degrees your oil is at a thickness of 10 which is good. at 104 degrees your oil is at 100 thickness and at 32 degrees for those in cold country like me , your oil is at a 250 thickness. The only difference between ow-30 and 10w-30 is at cool down, at operating temp they are both at a 10 thickness index. Go figure. see I do read. If it weren't for the viscosity index improvers a 10w-30 will loose its vii protection and your oil is then at a 6 thickness at operating temp on the scale so. The down side of minwral based oils is the wear down of the vii protection and you wind up with a straight 10 grade oil.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Thickness Index? WTF, you should stop posting and read some more, seriously.

Start here.

FerrariChat.com - FAQ: Motor Oil Articles by Dr. Ali E. Haas (AEHaas)

sweatr

So you are putting forth the idea that thickness and viscosity are not related?, Put back you fangs and tell me what is wrong with that. Viscosity and thickness might be the same thing?. I was saying that oil at operating temperature is at a certain thickness as well as start up. If you want me to stop posting on this subject , prove me wrong , because I will not stop sharing here just because you say so. I am not your enemy so stop being so unfriendly.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

I'm not being unfriendly, you just make no sense and are posting inaccurate information. This isn't my opinion, and engine lubricants are not magic, it's science and engineering. I'm not going to educate you because all the information you need is readily available to you. Did you even read the Dr. Haas article? You should also check out the BITOG forums.