The solenoid didn't extend the starter gear.
So, that's a problem. You can confirm this by taking the starter to an autoparts store and having them test it for free. |
The starter gear should be extending outward to engage the flywheel when you power up the solenoid. Looks like a bad starter....
ooops just saw the post above. Ya beat me to it. :squint: |
Originally Posted by strokercharged95gt
(Post 4866050)
The starter is hooked up correctly...
You are getting power to the starter so it shouldn't be a relay or fuse. You confirmed the battery is okay. It would be odd to have the starter work before the engine pull and not work after... (likely not the starter assuming you didn't hook it up incorrectly at some time) If it were me I would try two things I would try turning the motor over by hand by using a socket on the crank bolt (with the car out of gear of course) to ensure that the motor isn't locked (worst case senario). I would also take the starter out of the bell-housing and just let is hang there and try cranking it to see if the starter would free spin.... If those don't work, I would make a 4 or 8 AWG ground wire and connect it directly from the negative on the starter solenoid and connect the other end a strong ground point on the frame somewhere... (If that really juices things up it maybe a simple grounding issue) I must let you know that I am not an expert, but this is what I would try.... Oh and the engine isn't locked. Turns smooth and easy. |
Originally Posted by NotAPreppie
(Post 4866111)
The solenoid didn't extend the starter gear.
So, that's a problem. You can confirm this by taking the starter to an autoparts store and having them test it for free. |
Originally Posted by strokercharged95gt
(Post 4866120)
The starter gear should be extending outward to engage the flywheel when you power up the solenoid. Looks like a bad starter....
ooops just saw the post above. Ya beat me to it. :squint: |
Do you guys know the slave cylinder bolt size? |
Should be 12mm
|
Looks like you have good idle and vacuum, which seems to be a rare thing on rebuilds lately. :D: I also believe the two slave cylinder bolts are 12mm or something close.
|
Originally Posted by thebubbadog
(Post 4866236)
Should be 12mm
Originally Posted by strokercharged95gt
(Post 4866280)
Looks like you have good idle and vacuum, which seems to be a rare thing on rebuilds lately. :D:
I built this one myself (helped) 😁😁😁 |
Originally Posted by Kamal El
(Post 4866292)
Remember,
I built this one myself (helped) 😁😁😁 |
Originally Posted by strokercharged95gt
(Post 4866305)
That's the way to do it. Why pay someone else to have all the fun?
|
Originally Posted by Kamal El
(Post 4866292)
Remember,
I built this one myself (helped) 😁😁😁 If so, I will add them to the Rebuilders thread. |
Originally Posted by BigCajun
(Post 4866341)
Do they rebuild Rotaries?
If so, I will add them to the Rebuilders thread. Not the best reputation around here but so far I'm pleased with the engine. Turbo Clinic Rotary 12400 SW 128th St, Miami, FL 33186 (786) 897-8324 |
Just bought new coils plugs and wires. Still getting the p0302. Have about 14 miles on it
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...4edf4f03b0.png https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...d80c89d8fe.png https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...daa37ddf14.png |
Have you reset the ESS?
|
Originally Posted by Loki
(Post 4866703)
Have you reset the ESS?
Reset the ESS and make sure none of your fuel injector grommets/o-rings/gaskets got mangled in the R&R process. |
Reset the ess
no more p0302 Here's what I look like now https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...9cae371a69.png |
The only really useful data point in a point-in-time snapshot is the LTFT. The rest can change over short time scales.
That said, MAF rate and LTFT look fine. If you haven't already, let it idle up to operating temp while looking for oil, coolant, and fuel leaks. Once that is done, drive it around the block. If it survives that, take it and your S.O. to get some ice cream. |
Originally Posted by NotAPreppie
(Post 4866735)
The only really useful data point in a point-in-time snapshot is the LTFT. The rest can change over short time scales.
That said, MAF rate and LTFT look fine. If you haven't already, let it idle up to operating temp while looking for oil, coolant, and fuel leaks. Once that is done, drive it around the block. If it survives that, take it and your S.O. to get some ice cream. Lmao, Thanks but my S.O. only takes Castrol gtx |
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...a59bfdaf90.jpg
$9.07 for an O-ring? |
Goodness! What's it for?
|
Originally Posted by thebubbadog
(Post 4867411)
Goodness! What's it for?
|
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