I was getting my 8 tuned again this past weekend and I got some weird results...

.... VERY weird.

1st of all, my car has a slight hickup at aroune 4.5k rpm... It feels like the cars throttle cuts off and then starts up again for asplit second.
(this problem was not tunnable - we couldnt see it on the map and when we would try and richen that spot up... nothing would happen)

2nd, the cars boost was all over the place. it wouldnt maintain a niceboost. it jumps around inbetween the 6-8psi zone from around 3k rpm to around 8k rpm.

I have the greddy T618Z kit wih the HKS SSQV recirculated BOV. emanage ultimte. the motor has been rebuilt (cuz i blew it once already) so all the motor parts are new (about 10k miles) new plugs, new coil pack, i have the turboxs ex, no cat, O2 extender, I have the custom nipple on the turbo's exhaust, I fixed he harness on the emanage wireing, and I just got a new O2 and a new tru boost AEM boost controller.

after all of this.... the car is pushing 8 psi but my numbers are WAY low!!! what happened?!?!

im getting about 210whp and about the same in torque

on the tru boost controller there is a setting that you input the wastegate spring pressure... Ive noticed that when i play with this setting, it either smoothens out the boost or makes it even more "zig zaggy". Anybody know what the Greddy T618Z wastegate spring pressure is??? or any other ideas to where my power is??

thanks a lot in advance... im so mad at my car righ now

 

sure there is no boost leak?

got fix #2?

you can also buy a replacement wastegate actuator from ATP turbo. It runs $79.

 

I got fix #2 done. that was the 1st thing I did a few years ago when I 1st put the turbo in.

the only thing I noticed today was.... The nipple I tapped was a little loose, I tried to thread it in some more ad it tightened, then went loose again so which means it ran out of thread... so I screwed it in to where it fits the tightest then slapped on some silicone around it... if anything it would be a TINY leak if anyhing at all... i cant see how air would escape from that thread linning. but who knows.... it IS high pressureso MAYBE.

... i hope that silicone is somewhat strong enough to hold some pressure.

maybe i'll just buy that replaement wastegate, got a link where I can buy it?

... so you dont know what spring pressure the stock kit comes with?

 

Here's the part number for the wastegate actuator I bought from ATP. I never used it since I upgraded to the MM turbo... and when no one wanted to buy it, I returned it to ATP turbo for a refund (minus restocking fee).

----------------------

ATP-WGT-019 Internal Wastegate Actuator - Special 7 psi 1
$79.00 $79.00
Shipping: UPS
Ground: $12.74

Sales Tax: $0.00
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Total: $91.74




I don't know the wastegate spring, but I assume it's 6 or 7 psi since that's what the greddy kit usually runs.


ALSO, I have an unused already tapped greddy pipe that is sealed properly if you want to buy it. Let me know - I can take pics for you.

 

Get a Air Compressor Regulator (Lowes about 25 bucks); set it to 9 then 8 then 7... PSI and see if it will move the wastegate arm.

Also, turn OFF the boost controller until you get it sorted out - too many variables just make troubleshooting harder.

And silicone should hold 8-9 PSI if it is applied right; but you should have enough thread - where did you tap the nipple?

 

You will also need a pressure source for the regulator.... like a scuba jug or an actual air compressor if you have one.

Can do the same with a vacuum bleeder to dial in your BOV...

 

If you're only making 210-rwhp your tuner either doesn't know what he's doing or you have a major boost leak. Or your motor has no compression. But I am going to guess you have a boost leak. Check the recurc fitting on your SSQ.

 

I tapped it to the pipe right after the turbo's exhaust.

 

Yeah, thats another thought I had.
Im recirculating with a 1" hose. its all solid but it curves like 2 times before it goes back into the intake pipe. i'll tak a pic and show you guy....

 

should look like this.

 

Can you retap it? And or use some teflon tape.

 

the compressor output or the exhaust side output?

 

you do not want to be screwing around with the wastegate signal. that's an easy way to blow your engine.

 

mysql, are you talking to me?

I was referring to TESTING it to know when the arm is moving and if it will hold open at a specified PSI (no leaks in the WG itself).

 

No, talking to Romeo.

He must have misspoken ... if he routed exhaust to the wastegate, wouldn't that melt the vacuum tubing right away?

 

*** sorry, cant find my camera, these are camera phone pics (I have a Juke phone ;P )

this pic is the recirculating pipe. Notice how I have it shooting Back, then around and down to the intake pipe.<br/>



This is a pic of the nipple. Its a 90 degree nipple on the pipe riht after the turbo...


This is a bad picture because it doesent show where in the turbo its going in.... let em find a google pic and point it out....

 

not the EXHAUST, lol. sorry

let me find pic.

 

 

Try teflon tape and check for leaks/tightness.

But if you stripped that aluminum, you are going to have to retap it...

 

I'll try that this upcoming weekend then.

any comments on the recirculated BOV?

... it seems like a long way for the air to flow through...

 

I don't think the BOV is much of a problem unless you are getting compressor stalling.

 

any way of testing the wastegate w/o removing the turbo?
p.s. Im gonna be checking for boost leaks tonight.

 

are any of your vacuum hoses too small? Having them too small can cause a problem like this.

Are you sure the problem isn't your boost controller? Bad actuator?

Are you sure it isn't your coils? Mine have less than 10K miles on them and they are shot.

 

Im back, and I thought Id post an update:

The car is running perfect now.
I sent my emanage to greddy so they can have a look at it and the harness also.
meanwhile. I bought an OBD II and started to troubleshoot.
It pulled up 7 codes... only 3 were active
AIR valve, SSV valve and my no cat code. So only 1 that I was aware of.

anyway, After looking at where they were located and how to test them if there bad or not (through the service manual). I found the 2 connectors, side by side in the back of the motor. I reached back there to unhook them... They were already unhooked!!

So I pushed them in, CLICK CLICK. they locked in. theres NO way they just 'came off'.
Some shop either unhooked them on purpose, or they forgot to plug them back in when I got my motor rebuilt.

after i did that, i pulled up codes.... 0 codes!

w00t!

Benny over at Greddy called me and told me that he found a few problems with my emu and he fixed them... re loadned a slightly modified map for my setup and shipped it back...

I got my emu back. Hooked it up, and still no codes. Cars running fine... just having a little bit of boost controller issues... i'll start that on a new thread :D

...just thought Id let you guys know just incase this comes up for anybody else..

and yes, those connectors were causing the hickup.

 

(I wish I could change this thread title to something more along the lines of 'Hickup at mid RPM' or something).....