Hard to start when hot..
#1
Hard to start when hot..
I changed the plugs and coils in the last 10k miles. Though I did not change the wires- the car only (04 6sp rx8) has 40k miles now.
I Seafoamed last weekend, and thought that may have done the trick.
But nope- it is hard to start when hot again.
If it is good and hot and I just shut it off for a few minutes, it spins like it is flooded when I try and restart it (which is why I assumed it was a carbon/gunk compression issue before, and not the short plugs wires).
Sometimes I have to sit for a few minutes and let it cool down (maybe 5-15 minutes) and then it will start. Sometimes it will start after cranking it for a very long time (before battery dies/starter overheats).
Note I sort of over Seafaomed it (sucked entire can in one port, and then another can in the other port). But I don't see how that could hur the compression.
Ideas? Do I need a new engine at 40k miles? Or is there something else I should try? I really need a car that I can trust during my work hours. So now it's either- watch out for flooding, or watch out for it being good and warmed up. lol.
I Seafoamed last weekend, and thought that may have done the trick.
But nope- it is hard to start when hot again.
If it is good and hot and I just shut it off for a few minutes, it spins like it is flooded when I try and restart it (which is why I assumed it was a carbon/gunk compression issue before, and not the short plugs wires).
Sometimes I have to sit for a few minutes and let it cool down (maybe 5-15 minutes) and then it will start. Sometimes it will start after cranking it for a very long time (before battery dies/starter overheats).
Note I sort of over Seafaomed it (sucked entire can in one port, and then another can in the other port). But I don't see how that could hur the compression.
Ideas? Do I need a new engine at 40k miles? Or is there something else I should try? I really need a car that I can trust during my work hours. So now it's either- watch out for flooding, or watch out for it being good and warmed up. lol.
#2
That is a common problem. there is an alternative sparkplug you can use that Mazda came out with to help with this problem. you can find one here... http://mazdatrix.com/8ignition.htm
#5
Yeah.. unfortunately the Mazda dealer in town closed last year (but may reopen at a different location).
And I really need to make sure the car is good an hot when they do the compression test.
Though it does make me wonder- how does the engine cooling down a bit give it better compression? Well, maybe the housing cools before the rotors and there is a micrometer less of apex clearance...
On the plus side- if I get a new engine, I guess that would be a good time to change the worn motor mounts...
Oh- and doh! I realize I put this in the wrong forum area (should have been trouble shooting forum).
my bad.
And I really need to make sure the car is good an hot when they do the compression test.
Though it does make me wonder- how does the engine cooling down a bit give it better compression? Well, maybe the housing cools before the rotors and there is a micrometer less of apex clearance...
On the plus side- if I get a new engine, I guess that would be a good time to change the worn motor mounts...
Oh- and doh! I realize I put this in the wrong forum area (should have been trouble shooting forum).
my bad.
#6
..and is this site super slow for anybody esle? weird.
...
And I just remembered there was oil in the intake tube ribs.
I must have over filled the oil last time it was low...
So I guess I shoudl clean the MAF/IAT .. which probably would make it hard to start if they were not getting good readings.
Will do that tommorrow.
...
And I just remembered there was oil in the intake tube ribs.
I must have over filled the oil last time it was low...
So I guess I shoudl clean the MAF/IAT .. which probably would make it hard to start if they were not getting good readings.
Will do that tommorrow.
Last edited by BReal-10EC; 02-18-2011 at 05:15 PM.
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