How strong is your e-brake ? How to adjust?
#1
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I tested one day the e-brake (tranny in neutral, rolling at about 15 mph) and it hardly works. It does engage but is not grippy enough to really make a difference.
Except the cable adjust, is there something else to adjust? Maybe take to the dealer to check the pads?
Car has 8000 miles on it, pads should be fine (no squeaky sound when braking).
Except the cable adjust, is there something else to adjust? Maybe take to the dealer to check the pads?
Car has 8000 miles on it, pads should be fine (no squeaky sound when braking).
#2
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It sounds like your e-brake is working just fine. It shouldn't be able to slow a moving car down that quickly at all. The term emergency brake is missleading because the brake is no longer ment to do that. The term came about (if I remember correctly) when master cylinders first came out. Because they were single piston, if the piston broke hydro pressure would be lost to both the front and rear. At that time, when cars had drums in the front and rear, a lot of force was needed to apply the brakes. The hydro system could not do this if the pressure was lost, thus the emergency brake was invented. Today, the e-brake is used simply to hold a stationary car still. The application force that the cable and levers of the e-brake system generates on the rear pistons is no where near the force that the normal brake pedal produces, even when the engine is not running. It barely has enough force to hold a car on a steep hill (thats pne of the reasons why it is recomended to turn your wheels toward the curb on a hill). Normal e-brake adjustment is 4-8 clicks. As long as your lever doesn't click more than that, everything should be fine.
Last edited by s13lover; 12-13-2004 at 06:06 PM.
#3
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Originally Posted by bxb40
I tested one day the e-brake (tranny in neutral, rolling at about 15 mph) and it hardly works. It does engage but is not grippy enough to really make a difference.
#4
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For those with the AT 8 you have to left off the gas before the actual E-Brake will engage itself...
I had someone run out in front of me and I still had the gas on when I yanked it. Didnt engage till I moved my foot over to the Brake.
Simplex
I had someone run out in front of me and I still had the gas on when I yanked it. Didnt engage till I moved my foot over to the Brake.
Simplex
#5
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Originally Posted by SimplexEffect
For those with the AT 8 you have to left off the gas before the actual E-Brake will engage itself...
I had someone run out in front of me and I still had the gas on when I yanked it. Didnt engage till I moved my foot over to the Brake.
Simplex
I had someone run out in front of me and I still had the gas on when I yanked it. Didnt engage till I moved my foot over to the Brake.
Simplex
#8
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Originally Posted by s13lover
It barely has enough force to hold a car on a steep hill
#10
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Originally Posted by s13lover
It shouldn't be able to slow a moving car down that quickly at all.
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KeenanR10 (03-22-2021)
#12
Maybe there's a difference on e-brake application between FWD and RWD cars? On FWD, braking the rear wheels does not cause as much stress to the drivetrain. On RWD cars, pulling the handbrake would cause a direct stress to the engine if you don't step on the clutch pedal.
As for drifting, I can see why you'd need to use the handbrake for FWD cars. But I don't see why anyone would do the same for a RWD car when you can have the same effect by inducing a power oversteer.
As for drifting, I can see why you'd need to use the handbrake for FWD cars. But I don't see why anyone would do the same for a RWD car when you can have the same effect by inducing a power oversteer.
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