HVAC removal guidance
#1
HVAC removal guidance
I would like some guidance on removing all HVAC components from my 8. That is the AC, heat, blower, ect...ect...(picture attached).
Mainly looking for some pointers on what to do for/with the coolant hose that connects with the heater.
Also, what am I to do with all the electrical from the removed components?
Any and all help, guidance, pointers, and flaming is welcome.
~Thanks.
Edit :: about those coolant lines, is this DIY recommended (https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...ss-mod-125821/) OR is there a way to block it off at the two points on the engine ???????
Edit :: Engine bay photos from [RotaryResurrection]
Mainly looking for some pointers on what to do for/with the coolant hose that connects with the heater.
Also, what am I to do with all the electrical from the removed components?
Any and all help, guidance, pointers, and flaming is welcome.
~Thanks.
Edit :: about those coolant lines, is this DIY recommended (https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...ss-mod-125821/) OR is there a way to block it off at the two points on the engine ???????
Edit :: Engine bay photos from [RotaryResurrection]
Last edited by ripigs; 06-08-2014 at 12:02 PM. Reason: a little more searching and questions
#3
#4
It just runs from the rear LH iron of the engine, through the hard pipe across the firewall, through the core, out the core and to the water pump inlet at the front of the engine. The only pic you are missing is at the rear engine iron. Everything else you had in the linked pictures. Will see if I can find one for you.
#5
Is the by-pass mod okay, or is there some way to block the inlet/outlet from the irons?
Also, what to do with all the electrical in the cabin from all the removed pieces?
#6
attached pic from same thread showing the rear engine connection pipe and hose.
For the rear engine connection, it's under pressure. The best solution is to remove the pipe from the engine (it's just a tight slip-fit connection) and put a freeze plug in it's place.
For the front connection, it's under suction. A "heater hose bypass cap" of the proper size can be used to just cap it off.
You can try to use the cap on the rear engine pipe instead, but I've heard of them blowing out under pressure before. It could just be dependent on the quality of the cap. Some are heavy duty like the actual hose, some are just cheap vinyl caps.
Interior electrical, pretty sure you can just disconnect and leave it that way. That's all that the track racers usually do that I'm aware of.
For the rear engine connection, it's under pressure. The best solution is to remove the pipe from the engine (it's just a tight slip-fit connection) and put a freeze plug in it's place.
For the front connection, it's under suction. A "heater hose bypass cap" of the proper size can be used to just cap it off.
You can try to use the cap on the rear engine pipe instead, but I've heard of them blowing out under pressure before. It could just be dependent on the quality of the cap. Some are heavy duty like the actual hose, some are just cheap vinyl caps.
Interior electrical, pretty sure you can just disconnect and leave it that way. That's all that the track racers usually do that I'm aware of.
#7
. . . For the rear engine connection, it's under pressure. The best solution is to remove the pipe from the engine (it's just a tight slip-fit connection) and put a freeze plug in it's place.
For the front connection, it's under suction. A "heater hose bypass cap" of the proper size can be used to just cap it off.
You can try to use the cap on the rear engine pipe instead, but I've heard of them blowing out under pressure before. It could just be dependent on the quality of the cap. Some are heavy duty like the actual hose, some are just cheap vinyl caps.
For the front connection, it's under suction. A "heater hose bypass cap" of the proper size can be used to just cap it off.
You can try to use the cap on the rear engine pipe instead, but I've heard of them blowing out under pressure before. It could just be dependent on the quality of the cap. Some are heavy duty like the actual hose, some are just cheap vinyl caps.
#8
do you want to do it right or not? There is a separate discussion about the heater setup. Essentially it is taking hot coolant, running it through the core, and then back to water pump inlet, i.e. recirculates hot coolant back into the engine rather than to the radiator. The bypass mod is only that much worse.
What exactly are you trying to do by removing the entire HVAC? I assumed a race car, and the bypass mod is certainly not recommended for racing. Most race engine builders will install a freeze plug in the rear iron if they know the heater is not needed.
What exactly are you trying to do by removing the entire HVAC? I assumed a race car, and the bypass mod is certainly not recommended for racing. Most race engine builders will install a freeze plug in the rear iron if they know the heater is not needed.
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