I fear the worst.......
07-01-2010, 09:02 AM
#78
Registered
Don't bring that up again. He's out of business because a couple of dishonest forum scumbags sold a very one sided story to those who didn't know him and it exploded from there. Everyone somehow forgot all the good things he did for the community.
07-01-2010, 09:52 AM
#81
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Does anyone know of any ducting available locally that can withstand the elements? I have two open areas where my stock coolers used to be, I'd like to duct air from there to my radiator.
07-01-2010, 10:03 AM
#84
Maybe look at the outflow side of things.....
There is a lot of restrictive crap in the way in the stock setup
There should be more than enough airflow through the stock opening if it is well directed
I have seen corrugated heating vent type tubing used for brake ducts and intakes on some racecars..you can buy it in varying sizes at places like home depot...you can try it and see if it works with low cost before trying something larger and custom
07-01-2010, 10:11 AM
#85
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Yeah I am definitely seeing the blockage on the back side, I am thinking about relocating the battery but I wanted to keep the stock intake but I may have to just get an AEM or MS intake to free up space.
Another question, are the fender vents really functional?
Another question, are the fender vents really functional?
07-01-2010, 11:01 AM
#88
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Texas Hill County
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Do the manual fan switch mod. I have manual switch for my fans in my vette I use them on super hot Texas days and it keeps temps normal. I was gonna do this to my RX8 soon. I turn them on below 30mph.
07-01-2010, 11:58 AM
#93
its all about airflow. The oem radiator would work fine if it was more vertical and had less blockage on the outflow side. If you do remove that blockage all that heat will go into the engine bay and not out of it via the undercarrage. Too much heat is not good for all the sensors etc we have there.
I left mine alone--directing the radiator heat out of the car.
I dont understand why people try upgraded radiators that cost hundreds of dollars, work hard at installing it and then get surprised when the results are not what they expected.
The radiators that are being sold are mostly great good looking radiators and are worth every penny you pay. But, the fact of the matter is if you dont put air through it, it will not cool. Period. End of story.
The fix for a street car is easy, cheap and readily available. Why more people dont do it is beyond me.
220F substained repeatively by all the info that has been shared with me and what I have seen, will eventually cause cracks around the leading plug, which in turn will cause an uneven rotor face and then sooner or later you will loose compression. It doesnt matter what the load is on the engine at these times.
I also do not understand why people take this engine to 9--9.3K. Most know that over 8K the heat and the lubrication needs change dramatically so to redline 9K, your car evey day is NOT a good thing--again imho.
So my suggestion is to get a radiator in good airflow somewhere, A fan for the stop and go traffic situations are a great idea--i have one and it works.
Now if i can just convince my wife that all 6 coolers i have are needed!
(2-a/w intercooler, 1 secondary and then oem)
OD
I left mine alone--directing the radiator heat out of the car.
I dont understand why people try upgraded radiators that cost hundreds of dollars, work hard at installing it and then get surprised when the results are not what they expected.
The radiators that are being sold are mostly great good looking radiators and are worth every penny you pay. But, the fact of the matter is if you dont put air through it, it will not cool. Period. End of story.
The fix for a street car is easy, cheap and readily available. Why more people dont do it is beyond me.
220F substained repeatively by all the info that has been shared with me and what I have seen, will eventually cause cracks around the leading plug, which in turn will cause an uneven rotor face and then sooner or later you will loose compression. It doesnt matter what the load is on the engine at these times.
I also do not understand why people take this engine to 9--9.3K. Most know that over 8K the heat and the lubrication needs change dramatically so to redline 9K, your car evey day is NOT a good thing--again imho.
So my suggestion is to get a radiator in good airflow somewhere, A fan for the stop and go traffic situations are a great idea--i have one and it works.
Now if i can just convince my wife that all 6 coolers i have are needed!
(2-a/w intercooler, 1 secondary and then oem)
OD
07-03-2010, 03:05 AM
#99
Super Moderator
Now just to recall..what you did..
Oil Cooler (middle)
Oil Pressure Mod
Have you got the Early Cooling Fans ON mod (can't recall).
Sorry, I am not a fan of Hood Vent Holes, the objective is to get as much AIR through the Radiator and Coolers, it is OK when stopped, however when moving as OD said it can cause more problems than it is worth.
I agree with RG on the Oil Weight, I would go to a 15W40, even 20W50, again I am not a fan of 0W weight oils, even for Summer.
IMO, I think it would be good if you could run a BY PASS Switch to TURN all fans on HIGH when stationary, to move as much air through your radiator/cooler as you can.
It is a wonder no one has done a wiring DIY with a dash mounted toggle switch to do this??, particularly if you know you are coming up to a long traffic cue or stop lights you can turn your fans on MAX a few hundred feet before you get there, or if you see your temp dials too high.
Perhaps some Front Push Fans as "Team" suggested??, you can manually turn on??
