My opinion is that if you have to add anything to your oil to "improve it", you should just use a better oil instead.

 

RG, your comment in that other panel expressed concern about the amount of Molybdenum in Idemitsu oil and it settling out over time, how much time are we talking about before you think this happens - a hour,a day, a week? Where is it settling into to cause a problem?

Beyond that, I would think it would just go back into suspension if it's a particulate material when the engine oil is circulating again...?

It certainly would seem that (at least) for some people that track quite a bit, that this oil offers advantages in preventing bearing and gear wear because of the Molybdenum content, and for a daily drive, well, depending, it won't be coming out of suspension anyway due to constant use. Price is an issue..but then engine replacments are expensive too.

...so not sure I understand the problem this causes in the long run....can you explain further your concern and why you won't use it? Thanks.

 

Racing oils contain high levels of ZDDP - a zinc/phosphorous combo. Both are cat killers. This has been been brought down to really low levels in street legal oils under the new specifications. On engine such as ours that burns the oil (all cars break it down) the problem is exacerbated.

As was mentioned above, if Idemitsu went through API certification it would be street legal and good to go. However the sheet above doesn't say API certified, just "exceeds" API class SM.

Here's an interesting link when you have time: http://www.ttalk.info/Zddp.htm

 

If your car is used heavily on the track, your oil gets changed alot, and you aren't running a cat, it's great stuff. Then again that's what use it was designed for. The word "rotary" in the name doesn't mean anything useful from a performance standpoint. It does work for marketing.

 

I do know that zinc dithiophosphate (aka ZDDP) can destroy CATs in large concentrations, so 1% or less is what is typically used to prevent that. I've not seen anywhere that Molybdenum in any concentrations degrades CATs however.

So the question remains, how much ZDDP does an oil contain (Idemitsu or others) ...and short of an oil analysis, it remains an open question...aside from the fact I received the answer I quoted above to a direct question to Idemitsu as to whether their oil would destroy or degrade my CAT.

Do you believe what a company says or just assume they lie to sell you their product

 

Moly isn't going to degrade the cat. My concern is that it falls out of suspension and settles in the pan or clogs something up over time.

 

Do you trust the statement "should be fine to run in your car"? That's not a definitive statement. I haven't seen the bottle but the site suggests exceeds API SM not is API SM. He also didn't answer the cat question at all.

So to answer your question, no I don't believe what every company says.

 

i keep on think that idemitsuis sm spec. guess i was wrong.

idemitsu oil is pretty expensive ... i will stick with rp for now , if i have no cat i go idemitsu

 

...or Redline.

 

valvoline's vr1 series of oil is very good, just throwing in those 2 cents.

kevin./

 

I hope no one thinks I'm an Idemitsu basher. I'm not. It's a great oil that was developed in conjunction with the head of Mazda's rotary department (the same guy I talked to a few years ago about the use of synthetics in rotaries). It was just developed for a race car and I know what it has in it. Everything in an oil is a compromise. They didn't compromise as far as anti friction agents go which is a good thing. However the compromise did come in the form of their being an amount that may fail to stay in suspension in use over a long period of time. Keep in mind a race car used it's oil for hours at a time and not days or months.

 

From what I understand The Idemitsu Brand oil is possibly the fix for many of our problems, but has the possibility of creating some new ones. The question now is: Do the ends justify using it?
and is there anyone here who has used Idemitsu Rotary Oil on a long term scale?

 

*Never mind*

 

I want to try it ... if its not so hard to get.

No one locally carries it. So if I want it I have to mail order or order it online. which sucks.

 

Check this out> https://www.rx8club.com/deals-gap-rotary-rally-111/dgrr-vendor-specials-%2A%2Aonly-those-registered-%2A%2A-169010/

rotorsportsracing has it and the best price I've found and they sponser events of fellow rotorheads < Good Guys - they shipped almost immediately, others I found had online ordering, but didn't actually stock it (stupid)

email info@rotorsportsracing.com or just call

 

Teknics,

I am wanting to try the Valvoline VR1...What weight of the VR1 oil are you using? Is the VR1 standard motor oil or synthetic?

 

VR1 oil is good..it's regular non synthetic oil. You can get it at autozone and some other places. It ranges from 4-6 bucks a quart depending on where you get it. You can order it online in 10w-30 weight which I have found hard to find.. but it's about 6 or 7 bucks a quart when doing that. You can search pitstopusa.com for it.. part number val205 or val225..can't remember which. You can also get it at jegs.com they always have it.. Part number there is vv205 i think..but you'll pay a higher price for the shipping. Their price fluctuates quickly from week to week.

 

this thread has had so many revivals lmao

 

How long have you been useing vr1

 

Been using VR1 oil for about 60k miles. I have 112 thousand miles on my Rx8 now. This is my 5th rotary... I love them even though they are tempermental. The ve1 oil may make your cat fail sooner but I'd rather replace my cat than my engine. High mileage and racing oils have more antiwear additives that ....over time they may shorten the life of catalytic converters,,,,It's a trade off for better engine protection. Fyi, if u use 5-20 oil, u will kill the engine much much sooner.

 

I have 100300 on mine I'm useing 5w30 and thinking of use premix

 

Prelube always seemed to cause problems over time for me. If u have a manual trans,,,u may want to switch to a 10-30 or 10-40 if u like to race your engine. Use premium gas and decarbonize once every 10k-15k miles with bg44.

 

i just want to drive my car for a long time

 

Any oil that meets the SL rating will be perfect. Any oil that is above that rating is a better oil in every aspect of lubrication. So use the SN it is the best to date. Brand is a personal preferance and can not be substantiated by anything other than in depth scientific study or test.

 

U mean uoa? Or virgin oil test?

A lot of test results can be found here. Brand might be just a preference, but i think i will trust Redline's 5w30 SN oil more than Autozone's 5w30 SN oil