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The idle is like a dead battery when cranking.

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Old 07-21-2020, 02:49 AM
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The idle is like a dead battery when cranking.

Hi everyone,

long time since my last post: years!

My last question was about oil level increase with sohn adapter and specially thanks to all of you I saw the reality:

- side seal crack.

I learned during a year what to do for a proper rebuild and never do by my self what I considered. No, just what Mazda says in the manuals.

And now: I’m running a street port renesis. At the moment 2000km and 3 oil changes (10w40 for south Spain). soon with pictures!

Now, the problem:

since I started for first time till today I had recently a strange idle happened 3 times when cold. the exact moment you crank and starts the engine the Tsc light comes on and stays on. After that, a second after, the idle drops to 0 and rises again to 2000 but in the same situation when a battery is dead and fluctuates very quick.

odb2 elm327 doesn’t work when that happens and I’m forced to drive the car for a few kms before I shutdown and started again. After that, normal situation. No more tSC And obd2 connects to Dashcommand perfectly.

in 2000kms came P0301/p0302 and I found that the battery conectors aren’t tightly enough. Solved and no more codes.

and now again p0300 (random) and day after no more that code.

sorry because I couldn’t found these strange idle movement in the search.

any idea?

thanks a lot and kind regards from south Spain
Old 07-21-2020, 07:47 AM
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Sounds like electrical drop out, you battery terminals may still be loose, worn or dirty. It's common, the clamps stretch with age and repeat tightening.

Does the radio drop out as well?
Old 07-21-2020, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Loki

Does the radio drop out as well?
Can’t remember any reset in the clock and unfortunately, the radio since I had the first problem with the connectors I didn’t put any channel. I only listen the engine an relax driving It :-)

actually I cleaned up with sand paper the connectors and tightened all it cans. Next stage would be new ones.

Could be any relation with the flash cel p0300 and the battery while driving?

I have Also a nasty +4.7 LTFT When driving and +7 FTFT when idles. AFR at idle is 15.0 / 15.1 / 14.9 : 1 and Maf 5 g/s timing -5 at idle. STFT moves up and down but normally goes to 0 at idle or constant velocity.

I red that vacuum leak causes also those codes but I don’t know if with a +7 or more at idle could be for sure a P0300. Could be?

Thanks Loki and glad to see you again.

Kind regards.


Old 07-21-2020, 12:11 PM
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Old 07-21-2020, 12:19 PM
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Old 07-21-2020, 03:01 PM
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Car looks fantastic. There might be a small vac leak causing the trims, but that wouldn't explain the other symptoms. What do all the affected systems have in common? Probably the battery and wiring to/from it. The OBD port not talking and rpm going to zero sound like the ECU is not powered. You might check all the connectors to it. That's why I asked about the radio, if the problem is limited to ECU wiring the radio will still work, whereas a problem that affects both the ECU and the radio would mean it's common to them both: battery, terminals, charging system or main fuse/connection to fuse box.



Old 07-21-2020, 03:38 PM
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Thanks a lot!

all fuses were inspected and all are fine. The idea is that it happened only 3 times in 2000kms and that means 20 cold starts more or less. I have reset with break pedal 3 times in the first 900kms but no more. The battery is a 2017 and not strong enough. I will see if drops too much when cranking.

i have also notice that the ground cable from the cat back is not connected to it.

Plugs, wires and cables are less then 6000kms

and I’m Preparing a smoke machine for that supposed leak. :-(

I run sohn adapter with 2stroke oil and a new clutch from American clutch stage 2 with light flywheel. And I will also ask if the counterweight from these kit would be correct as the automatic weigh.

Plenty of things I want ask only for these personal project.

kind regards!
Old 07-21-2020, 03:54 PM
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