I just had my stock clutch replaced because I was at 45k miles in my 2005, and the clutch was shot. The new clutch is the F1 Racing stage 2, its rated at 465 hp and 330 lbs tq.

I'm not sure if my problem would be the clutch or the install, maybe you guys can give some input.

I have only put about 100 miles on it so far so I don't know if it just needs a break in period before it will act normal or if its defective clutch, or even a bad install by the dealership. I bargained the dealership down to an extremely low price that matched a shop near my home and I am wondering if they did a poor job because it was half the price they wanted.

The first problem is that I feel chattering when engaging the clutch in first gear, is this normal during break in?

The second problem and I know I did something bad but I suppose I did it because I wanted to see if there were other problems besides the chatter, I did a high rpm shift from 2nd to third and it slipped, it felt almost like a slow automatic shift. Is that also normal because I didn't break it in yet?

How many miles should I break in the clutch to be safe and are these things nothing toi worry about unless they still occur after break in?

Thank you for any input or suggestions.

 

Why would you buy such a strong clutch? Chatter and noise are common on some racing clutches.

 

First off, you are NOT supposed to shift above 4000RPM during the break-in period.
And the break-in period is usually between 700 & 1000 miles (the document that came with the clutch should tell you).

Does the chattering occur with the clutch disengaged (pedal down)?
You mentioned chattering in first gear, is it only in first gear.
Does it only occur after you've engaged the clutch (pedal up)?

I second 9krpmrx8's question on why you bought that strong of a clutch.
Charles R Hill is our resident clutch guru, maybe he can shine some light on racing clutches making chattering sounds... but I personally wouldn't like that even if its considered "normal".

 

I bought this strong of a clutch in anticipation of a SC or Turbo, 300-330 rwhp is right around 360-390 flywheel hp which is only 75 hp away from the clutches max, and 215-245 rwtq is around 265-285 tq, only 50-75 less than its max tq, I don't want to be changing out the clutch twice.

The chatter may be happening when going into the higher gears as well, but you do so quicker than engaging 1st from a stop so it is not as noticeable. In addition, the chatter does not happen when the pedal is all the way down, only when engaging it.

But what about the slippage? Is that just because its not broken in, or should it not slip at all no matter what?

It also seems like it doesn't disengage as well as the stock one, I find it a little rough when cycling through the gears while driving.

I will not go into the high RPM's any more until after 700 miles, I was just a little leery on the quality of the clutch and the workmanship of the dealership at a discounted rate. One of the signs was that the dealership usually washes my car after any work they do, but this time they just left it all dirty and took longer to finish it. With them being like that, it has made me a little Paranoid.

 

I for some reason bought the same stupid clutch....had it installed and after a few miles I would hear a chatter or some kind of rattling noise coming from the shifter area.

This noise occurs at low RPMs while driving (usually 2.5k to 3.5k) and at times while taking off it will make a hard loud screatch. I went back to his garage and we uninstalled it to check to make sure it was done right and needless to say it all was.

Once reinstalled it continued on with the same problems, Ive had it installed probably about 5 - 10k miles now cant remember how long.

Either way I'm just waiting for it to go out so I can not be such a cheap *** and buy a proper clutch for replacement

 

Proper clutch for replacement? as in exedy?

 

I am not having any problems like you did, those sound pretty bad.

Mine just seems to get a rough grip when going from a stop at slow acceleration, kind of like its grabbing a little bit here and there when trying to do a smooth acceleration.

My main question is, is this normal before a break in? Or maybe, did the dealership not bleed the clutch? I'm thinking of taking it to a trans shop my uncle (the mechanic) sends his trans problems to, maybe have them bleed the lines if thats the problem. Clutch pedal is extremely soft, feels a lot like a brake system that hasn't been bled after changing out lines.

 

Stronger clutches don't have the cusioning that the stock clutch has - some driveline roughness is to be expected . I had some quirks with my ACT HD clutch for the first 10000km or so before it settled down.
That said I do think you may have gone a little overboard with that particular clutch even if you are going to go turbo .

 

link to said clutch? we need some more info on it.

my clutch is a 4 puck with a hd pressure plate. so it DEFINITELY chatters a bit during start off. but as soon as you are moving, you are golden. and it shifts very quick, sure, and fast. its rated for 440lbs/ft of torque, and clutch pedal feel is no stiffer than stock (after 30k miles.) i also put it in for the inevitable turbo install, and the drag racing i do.

chattering while you are already moving is.... worrisome.

 

http://www.f1racingtech.com/products/index.html

First off, love that front clip! Buddy Club? I liked the pictures of that clip on the web, but I never could have imagined it would look so good on a real car...

As far as the clutch goes, I do not have any chatter after the initial connection in first gear. My pedal feel is just as you said, the same as stock or even a little softer. Also, for an update, after putting just 200 miles on it, it is starting to disengage and engage smoother and smoother, I feel like the gears are going in much smoother now as well.

I knew there was a break in period but it has been probably around 10-11 years since I have had to experience the break in of a new clutch, so I was a little unsure, and as I said before a bit "paranoid" of the quality.

The last time I changed out a clutch I went with a high end ACT for an 88 turbo Supra and it cost me $575 with out the bearings, so I was not at all leery of the product. Actually, that clutch in that car was mean as hell, I used to kick sideways hitting third gear even with 9.5 inch Nitto drag radials, damn that car was fun...
If of course you don't count the two motor swaps I had to do

Thanks for the input guys, you settled my nerves a bit.

 

Just an update...

I have about 300 miles on the clutch and the rough first gear engagement has smoothed out some. I suppose the clutch may smooth out more as miles go by, but I'm sure it is possible, being that it is designed to handle significantly more hp than stock, it may also always be a little rougher than a standard clutch.

On another note, I can't wait until I hit the manufacturers recommended break in mileage of 500, then I will get to see if it grabs any better or worse than stock. I pray that the low price is just because the company is trying to get their name out there, and not because of low quality. So far my opinion is good.

 

Got a new problem with the clutch.

I drove the hell out of my car and put 600 miles on it in 1 week, I couldn't wait to see if it all would be better after the break in period.

The problem I have now is, in high RPM shifting I mash the pedal to the floor, and slam it into the next gear, but the clutch pedal stays at the floor!!

It eventually does come up on its own, but it's about 2 seconds later after you've bounced off the rev limiter a few times!

When it does engage it feels like a slipping automatic, this is horrible!

Is this a hydraulic bleed problem? Or is it more likely I have a defective clutch?

I pray a good bleed will make this thing grab...

 

First thing I would do is bleed the clutch.

 

wow,

broken pedal. bad slave.. first two guesses..

beers

 

I have a feeling it may be the broken pedal.

Initially when my clutch went out, I heard a snap and the pedal fell about half way to the floor, it would somewhat work after that, but it was crunching and didn't disengage all the way.

I was reading another topic discussing the pedal problem, and the "funny" thing is, I am right at 45k miles, and that's right when people say the problem typically occurs.

I'm going to take a look at the pedal assembly today, if it is the pedal I hope my slave is not a second problem.

 

Yes, something that is more proven

 

I looked at the clutch assembly and it almost looks new, I think the dealership may have recognized the assembly problem and told me I needed a new clutch just to get some income flowing.

They may have replaced the assembly under warranty but also wanted to sell me a stock clutch with install for $1200.

As I said before I was able to get the total for the clutch down to $550-600 but I still have a problem. I am going to take it to the trans shop my uncles garage uses, and have them check it out, and bleed it if necessary.

I know what you guys are saying about getting a proven clutch and I understand, but I was in a financial bind at the time and there were good reviews from mechanics on this site about the F1 Racing system. I suppose it could be a hit or miss kind of thing and their quality is inconsistent, and maybe I got one of the bad ones.

I have my fingers crossed and hope its not a cylinder or the clutch.

If it is the clutch, I will go all out this time and get a high quality ACT, I loved their quality in my old Supra.

 

It could be centrifugal enertia holding the pressure plate at high rpm's, does this occur if you dont mash the pedal to the floor ?

 

the pedal not coming back. wow. never heard of that.

i'd definitely get the clutch lines bled. and as swoope also said, check the slave cylinder. and the clutch pedal assembly. did you check that? look behind the pedal for any tears in the metal. especially where it bolts to the car.

 

It doesnt happen at any mid to lower rpm's, although it seems to engage slowly the higher up in the rpm's you are.

From 6000 down it grabs hard enough, not jolting or spine breaking, but solid enough.

 

maybe is air in the clutch line...

purge it

 

Just another tidbit of information...

I haven't had a day off to check into the problems further, but I have noticed the pedal loses pressure the higher the rpms are.

I held the pedal to a point where the clutch was disengaged at about 3/4 depressed and then revved the motor to about 7000 rpm's, pressure was lost in the pedal and it drops down without adding any more pressure. I am guessing this would be a change in vacuum causing a pressure loss which would be because the hydraulic system does need to be bled.

I am off on Friday and will look into the problem with more detail.

Speaking of depressing the pedal, this whole thing is depressing me

 

I still think its centrifugal force, as the rpm's increase, the weight of the pressure plate overpowers the the springs inside the pressure plate,causing the fingers or diaphragm in the pressure plate to "suck in",moving the face of the pressure plate away from the driven or clutch plate.IMO,if there was air in the line,the clutch would slowly engage not disengage.

 

Sounds plausible, but I pray that your wrong.

 

Bump! update please