Th testing was done locally didn't know SWRI (local to San Antonio) did this type of testing.

http://www.imakenews.com/eletra/mod_...PM&uid=bdgDHkp

 

I'd like to know the followup, after they took off the ILSAC certification and various claims.

 

sometimes RP's advertisement is a bit too much, they do have good product, and its proven in many race/street users.

but I think the worst is Amsoil, I mean Amsoil has good product but ...

 

Speaking of marketing, have you seen this stuff nycgps? I got a new dealers catalog and they had an article/ad about it.

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/flsh.aspx

 

^ Sorry for the bump but has anyone heard of this stuff? I really can't find anyone who has used it.

 

The article makes no mention that RP isn't a good oil and doesn't denegrade it in the least from a protection standpoint. Their marketing is no different than the tactics by most other companies. There is a motive behind this BP lubricants company compaining like this and I guarantee it is based on money. Probably cutting into sales of a product that they market. Companies don't spend money against others unless the others are taking theirs or unless there is a financial benefit from it. RP's advertising doesn't state which oil they were comparing their claims against. Yes this is a bit gray area when it comes to honesty but again, most other companies pull the same types of claims. It's all about manipulating the wording to make it appear more in your favor. They never said 5% increase over specifically Castrol or a 5% increase over every other oil.

There are 3 big synthetic oil companies that are better than the rest. At least in my opinion. They are Royal Purple, Amsoil, and Redline. Amsoil claims you can go 25,000 miles between oil changes. I'm not willing to try that. I'm also not going to sue based on a claim that I don't believe. Even if the oil can survive this long, it's the filter that I'm worried about. On a rotary, you'd be completely out of oil after that distance anyways due to oil metering. Would that imply that you never change your oil in a rotary if using Amsoil but rather always top it off?

It's all semantics. It's a great oil. I'm also not concerned over an ILSAC certification or lack of it. People assume that if it doesn't have something that it isn't good. Not at all. Those standards change every couple of years anyways and they don't always change for the better.

 

Looking over the Amsoil site, the must have gotten beat up over claims too. The 25,000 mile oil change recommendation is gone. Now their "reformulated and repackaged" XL extended drain interval oils now list recommended 10,000 mile oil change intervals which is in line with some car manufacturers such as Toyota.

 

I agree, most companies are shady in marketing. I bumped it because I was wondering if the engine flush from Amsoil is any good. I suspect it would destroy the oil film inside the engine but I cannot find any real info on it.

 

Oh damn I didn't even notice that you bumped it!

 

:LOL: I was thinking about cleaning my motor at 20k due to the amount of premix i run and I am torn as to whether it's needed or not. I change my oil like clockwork and use idemitsu (kawasaki Jaso-FC previosly since rebuild) premix in the fuel and in the SOHN reservoir.

 

tbh, this S1 engine we did the seal on seems remarkably clean inside, I know part of that will be down to mainly full throttle and the heat generated, but we do run about 80-100:1 on the premix.

 

hmm, sounds like every single one of the major news stations. if the news isnt what they want to report, simply change the news via shady manipulation of whats reported and how. same principles apply to all sort of things in the world today

 

I don't cared about this Synthetic bullshit !

ITs bad ! Mazda say its bad ! even Mazda Japan sells Synthetic oil for Renesis MNAO say its still bad for this engine ! I don't care ! Its BADDDDDDD ! Synthetic can go SUCK IT !

/end sarcasm

Amsoil flush? hmm ... no thx. I think Amsoil have good product but I don't think a properly maintained Engine/tranny will ever need stuff like this.

it might be a good way for shops/dealership to rip their customers off tho. charge them like 100 bux for this "flush" service

 

Just sit down young lad and i'll bring you an ice cream - there there ....... you'll be be ok .

 

My Honda Ridgeline truck started using some oil at around 135k. I mentioned it to a knowledgable tech I know and he suggested that maybe the piston rings were gummed up and sticking. His recommendation was a quality oil flush. I used the Amsoil product linked above and the issue went away. Now at 146k and still running strong.

That doesnt mean I endorse it for a rotary application. Just sharing my one time experience fwiw.

 

I've used Auto-RX (another engine flush I learned about on BITOG) on my wife's Outback (H6 3.0, 95k miles) and it did make the engine run more smoothly. I didn't do anything crazy like take off the valve cover and do before/after pics, but the engine was starting to become a bit lumpy and the Auto-RX seems to have fixed it.

Like Team, I've not put it in my RX-8, and I don't have plans to, but the stuff seems to work in a piston motor.

 

The cure for internal engine buildup is to just rev it up and drive it hard from time to time. It's babying it that causes deposits.

 

Yeah I make sure and redline her each morning on the ride to work once she is warmed up but she doesn't see the miles she used too so i worry about build up. I try and purposely drive the 8 on longer trips just to stretch her legs.

 

I tried that on my relitively new Plymouth/Mitsubishi back in the mid 80's. I had to have the engine repaired because the silent shafts wore out and fell into the pan. Later we had to trade it in when the engine started going bad again. I think I went about 15K on the Amsoil and I will never touch that brand again.

 

My GF just bought a 3 isport touring with the 2.5 and Mazda does not recommend the first oil change until 7500 miles That seems way too long to me so I will change it at 3,000 miles. It is cool though that the dealer offers free oil changes for the life of the car as long as you go there.

 

I bought a Camry in April and they recommended the first oil change at 10,000 miles with everyone after that also at 10K intervals. They recommend the car come in every 5K miles for a tire rotation and to top off the oil if necessary. It makes me nervous but I have free oil changes for 2 years and drive nearly 30,000 miles per year. As long as it is on record that it is maintained by them if any problems pop up, they are going to fix it. I'm a bit nervous but at least they only use full synthetic for all of the fluids. 0W20 btw.

 

Did you get an extended warranty for it? I am so glad I bought the 100k bumper to bumper warranty on my 8.

 

7.5k isn't a huge amount of milage for most vehicles these days, some of the latest fleet cars come with 20k recommend services - I don't think I'd dare leave it that long though!

 

Had similar experience with a Caddy once -- valves sticking. Fellow we knew suggested a "quality oil flush" too. Lol, he poured in a quart of Kerosene and the problem was gone in about 10 minutes!

 

I got a new 3 hatch about 2 months ago and its at 2.5K miles now. thinking of doing the oil change at dealer cuz its just 21 bux and I like that dealership. but I already bought 5 filters for the car so i dunno