So I think my AC controls got knocked hard or something. When I hit the AC button, it shows the "AC" icon on the dash display screen... but the green LED on the AC button does not light up and the air is hot as hell!

Also, the air mode won't switch from vent to air circulation. I'll hit the button and it just stays on vent.

It was cool this morning and so I just turned the **** all the way to cool to see if even in vent mode it would blow out cold air and it did not... it just stayed super hot!

The air feels like the air is all the way up on heat and nothing I do is changing the effect on it.

Anyone ever had any issues with this? Maybe something came unplugged behind the AC control panel. Thoughts?

 

Read this DIY and be sure to do the temperature control **** diagnostic test. What's your car's year/mileage?

 

you probably have a freon leak and the system isn't coming on due to low pressure, take it to an AC shop

hopefully a rock didn't take out the front condensor

 

Mine have the same issue. To confirm, try to press the blank plastic above the AC controls and monitor if the green light on. press hard a bit on different area. If you can get the green light on, hold and switch temperature or fan speed or whatever. After that, you can send your car to the shop and remover the entire player and have a physical check (I DIY with the manuals). Mine was found a nut locking section broken and caused the contact of the player power supply connector loosed. I use 3M super glue and got it fixed. You can try ebay for the 2 din panel

 

Guys thanks for the replies!

So I did the AC Temp test as outlined in the above article link. It is changing, but the AC TEMP only goes from 13 (when it's all the way on cold) to 16 (when it's all the way on hot. Since the temperature value is actually changing, not just changing as much as it should.. is this still gonna need to be soldered again? Or is it another fix?

 

probably needs to be soldered again.

Its not that hard to solder. you can get a basic kit at Radio shack for less than 10 bux, it has everything you need to get the job done.

or if you're under bumper to bumper warranty, you can bring it to dealership to replace it.

 

Nice... gonna give it a shot when I have some downtime this weekend.
Thanks again fellas!

 

@#$@#$ these stock radio connectors are killing me! lol.. can't get to seem them to want to disconnect and I don't wanna break the housing as that would defeat the purpose. Any trick to these things?

 

If you pull on them they'll never loosen - you have to compress the male into the female, then push the release tab.
Much harder to do than it sounds.....

 

Guys, thanks for all the help on this. I was able to get the panel out and get to the circuit board. I soldered the parts specified in the DIY, but it's still not working. Any one have any other ideas that it could be? Any help is appreciated at this point ha.

 

Did you take it to an AC shop yet and confirm it has the correct freon pressures?

 

Temp **** test still going 13-16 instead of 0-16?

 

Yes the Temp **** is still going 13-16 this is why I think it's not the freon pressures. Am I correct in assuming this? I may try another go at it with the soldering iron. I may have knocked the solder loose when I was assembling and putting back. How long should you let a solder cool as I'm a newbie to soldering.

 

if u did it correctly, it should be "pretty hard" for you to knock it off.

Take it back out and check.

 

This is from another thread and I do not take any credit for the information below.


1. Make sure the car is off AND the HVAC fan is off AND the A/C on/off button is off.
2. Press and hold the front defroster (on the left) AND air source (recirc/fresh air) buttons
3. Continue pressing the buttons in step 2 and turn the key to ACC for 3 seconds
4. Continue pressing the buttons in step 2 and further turn the key to ON (NOT START) for 3 more seconds.
5. Verify the programming update by observing the REAR defroster LED blink 3 times.
6. Release the two buttons from step 2 and start the car.

When you turn on the A/C with the MODE button set to FACE and turn the thermostat to full COLD (max counter-clockwise setting) the RECIRC should automatically engage. In addition, the amplifier should put out colder air (~ 5-10 degrees F colder and not just from the RECIRC setting) and the compressor will not cycle nearly as often (which some of us found annoying).

Note: This programming change is not persistent. If the battery is fully discharged or disconnected the procedure needs to be repeated to re-enable the settings.

 

sam heights,

If the lowest it's going is 13, that's probably going to feel pretty warm even if the AC is working, so you've got to fix this temperature **** control problem first. Solder should cool almost instantly (definitely within 5-10 secs max).

Check these out to learn soldering/desoldering:
How to Do It: Basic Soldering

How to Solder : Heating & Applying Solder

How to Solder : Removing Solder

Make sure the solder joint gets nice and shiney like he said. Consider practicing with some wire as shown until you think you've got it so you don't ruin the AC control circuit board.

 

Well I've messed with this off and on for the last few weekends. Tried to solder/resolder/etc. and it still goes from 13-16 only. The rear defrost also will not come on as well, which also boggles me. I think this is because it's stuck on vent mode?

None the less, just checking to see if anyone has any other final ideas, or if someone can tell me where I can order the part online to replace. I realize I may have to order way more than I need to actually replace the circuit board, and if that's the case, then so be it. Texas summers are nothing to f*** with.

If there are any Central Texas members that may know where I can pick up what I need that would help out too. Thanks in advance fellas.

 

before u start ordering parts, see if anybody local wanna try to swap the HVAC controls with you first, just to check and see if its actually the HVAC control problem. Cuz the part is not cheap, I think its 270 something bucks.

Have you check the Freon level yet ?

 

You can order the HVAC dash control unit from Montgomery Mazda.

 

Heres my issue after installing a metra kit the right deforst button, AC button, and Mode button dont work! Help any ideas? Tried the HVAC reset didnt work

 

I have this same issue.... I replaced the part, got it cheap at an auto salvage yard.... but it's still doing this.. and only going from 13 to 16 on the test.

Anyone have any other ideas at all? It's already summer... pretty hot.

 

take it to somebody who knows what they're doing ...

 

I know... I hate to take it to the dealership and get the whole run around though. It's out of warranty and I don't want to get the dreaded... "oh you need this and this part" pitch.

 

Ive got a circut board and a hvac control panel that were both functioning perfectly when removed from the car ~26k miles. Let me know if you want either.

 

Did this ever get solved? I have the exact same problem. Someone please post an update. Thanks