just fitted a engine into my rx8 ,it hasnt started after a while on the key
should it have started straight away ? it did cough but now stinks of petrol ,also the em light and battery lights are on while i turn it over is that right i can`t recall, should i do the deflooding thing with plugs out or will it go after a while? cheers

 

yep you flooded it.

as to why well- are the plugs correct and in the correct spots? are the coils known GOOD coils? did you use old wires or new wires? are the wires absolutely connected tight and correctly? did you reset the eshaft profile? are you using a known good battery?


etc etc etc.

 

car it came out of was fine started fine battery fine ,what is the eshaft profile ?

 

you don't even know what e-shaft profit is ?

I don't get it, people don't know anything about the car, but they Think Engine is the problem? replaced and find out it doesn't work? failed.

 

I went through the same thing when i did an install. Long story short i had other issues. My suggstion to you is skip the cranking and cranking and flooding the engine such as you have. I would suggest a good ol fashion pull start to get things moving. If you pull start it you will have elimintaed alot of the things that could be an issue.

ASSUMING EVERYTHING IS INSTALLED PROPERLY AND ITS READY TO BE STARTED :-)

 

right got it to run well sort of,the old engine had water seal problems a smoked white smoke really bad and lost water
this engine will start after a while but its asif its popping over on 3 cylinders and wont rev past 1000 rpm and it smokes like the other one but doesnt seem to be losing water ,could the smoke be the coolant that was lost from the old engine being burnt in the exhaust.and also what is the eshaft profile ,any help pls don`t know alot about the car trying to learn

 

Possible that its the excess coolant burning out but i highly doubt that. I woudl check that you have all of your plug wires, coils, an dplugs in the right position and that everything ignition related is hooked up and in working order. Any CEL? Also your going to have to give alot more information on the car to get some more help.

 

is the trigger wheel installed correctly? is the hall sensor clean?

 

Is the flux capacitor fluxing?

 

Recheck the plug wires, very easy to mix up, then you got a terrible running engine......

 

is the trigger wheel installed correctly? is the hall sensor clean?

anyway its a 54 plate 192 with 71000 miles just put a used engine in it and it was sold as a runner have taken plugs and leads from old engine because old one started with them,anyone got a pic of the correct way leads go on ,old engine didnt run this bad and it ws burning water like a bonfire out the exhaust,if leads etc are wrong way round would it make it smoke

 

A Google image search finds this (in 0.17 seconds, I'm told)



If the body's a 192, is the new engine also? The ECU (computer) will get real confused otherwise.....

 

checked google maybe i was asking for the wrong thing ,i was lead to believe that a 231 wont fit on a 192 gearbox

 

thats a joke. my questions were not. not only are the answers important but if you cant answer them i hope they make a point to you.


both engines will bolt to the tranny

 

is there any way to check from the engine if it is a 231 or192 ,it was definately sold to me as a 192 ,the guy i got if from on ebay has 100% feedback and 1107 sales so thats encourageing, i had to change the crank shaft sensor (if thats the correct name for it as it was cracked,engine management light is on would that sensor give a code that needs clearing ?its the smoke that concerns me i am hoping that its just burning off the excess coolant ,this engine wont even rev up just sputters at 800-1000 rpm with foot on the floor if i lift my foot up it stall

 

ok got it going this morning ,changed the leads ,coils and throttle body over and it fired up 1st time ,smoked for about 30 miles now it is clear ,seems i am luckky with the engine ,there are a couple of niggly things ,it idles at 1100 and when you dip the clutch pedal abit it drops to 800 and if you take your foot off it goes to 1100
and is cluch bite quite low on rx8 it doesnt slip or have trouble going into gear just seems lower than other cars i have driven cheers woz

 

get the clutch adjusted. clean the maf- see if that helps the idle.

the crank shaft sensor is the eccentric shaft position sensor- eshaft sensor. the PCM keeps a profile of its position stored in memory. if it wrong it can cause touble.

to reset it you have to turn the ignition to "on" pump the brake pedal like mad at least 20 times in 30 seconds. if you do it correctly the oil pressure gauge needle will do a sweep.

if the shaft sensor was broken it could be that the trigger wheel the sensor watches was damaged as well. you'll need to check it if you continue to have ignition and idle problems

 

checked clutch it has got about 75 mm before it will go into gear and bite is at the bottom and alot of free play at the top ,i still dont understand why the idle would drop 300 rpm if i just dip the pedal into the free play area

 

neutral switch

 

could that be a connector round the wrong way? was fine before changed engine , got no engine management light now and done clutch

 

no if its caused by a neutral switch issue then it will be a faulty or not connected neutral switch.

 

got the clutch done now only problem i have is that when started from cold the idle jumps from 1000-1500 rpm for about a minuete then settles down but idles at 1300 rpm what do you think this could be ?
i have another maf and throttle body
cheers woz

 

please anyone or i am looking at a big diagnostic bill at mazda helppppp

 

why can't you just follow the FSM and follow step by step on how to fix ur mess ?

 

if you dont want to help me don`t bother to reply to my post ,i was asking the people that know about rx8s and want to share their knowlege i am not a mechanic