Lastest PCM N Flash - More Power?
04-07-2005, 12:55 PM
#151
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Originally Posted by Jaguar_MBA
I questioned the service manager about the WBS setting. He says that they are using the most current and the Mazda sends them a CD every month with updates for PCM Flashes.
04-07-2005, 03:02 PM
#152
good idea Mr hill. That would be some good data. Lift as I may it will not compare to that night my friend! Besides like you said, you are too busy driving to notice details like that! 9K comes fast!
I am looking forward to the next ride. Too answer your question on the other thread(excuse the little hyjack guys) an extra inch wide will not affect accleration that much on a road track. Remember its average speed/lapse time not just accleration. That extra inch may help you carry more speed through a turn. So you could end up with a faster lap. Inch height affects everything and I dont recommend it. If you are a dragging go staggered
olddragger
I am looking forward to the next ride. Too answer your question on the other thread(excuse the little hyjack guys) an extra inch wide will not affect accleration that much on a road track. Remember its average speed/lapse time not just accleration. That extra inch may help you carry more speed through a turn. So you could end up with a faster lap. Inch height affects everything and I dont recommend it. If you are a dragging go staggered
olddragger
04-07-2005, 10:27 PM
#153
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Would my GReddy SP2 Exhaust void my qualification for the Lastest N Flash? My car is going in Thurs. April 14th for squeaky brakes and horrible rust after 4000 miles. I would like to update because my car falls into the Vin #'s that can be updated. I just want to make sure before I call and ask and sound like a retard. How would I go about asking for the N Flash. Hope to hear from someone soon.
Thanx in advance
-Rich
Thanx in advance
-Rich
04-07-2005, 11:27 PM
#154
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LoveMy8,
If your car has not had Mazda's MSP-04 done to it, the dealer is supposed to flash it when you bring it in. Apparently it is in Mazda's computer system so if your VIN is included the computer will instruct the dealer to apply MSP-04 (without charge) if it had not been done. If it has been done, then you should have a sticker either under the hood or on the door jam with a reference to MSP-04.
When you take it in, ask the dealer to check the computer regarding MSP-04 on your car. Good luck.
If your car has not had Mazda's MSP-04 done to it, the dealer is supposed to flash it when you bring it in. Apparently it is in Mazda's computer system so if your VIN is included the computer will instruct the dealer to apply MSP-04 (without charge) if it had not been done. If it has been done, then you should have a sticker either under the hood or on the door jam with a reference to MSP-04.
When you take it in, ask the dealer to check the computer regarding MSP-04 on your car. Good luck.
04-08-2005, 09:37 AM
#155
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I'm getting the new flash on Monday--turns out my car fell in that range of 8's built before April 2004. I can't wait! I'll let ya'll know what happens with it, though it sounds like most people already know...
04-11-2005, 07:18 AM
#156
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Do we still need to rev our engines to 3000 rpms for 10 seconds then let it idle for ~ 50 secs anymore before turning the car off?... if you have the N flash?
04-11-2005, 08:55 AM
#158
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This is only for short moves. I would do it as it's not that much of a PITA. I don't think the 50 second idle is nesesscary (not in the docs?).
Originally Posted by Jaguar_MBA
Do we still need to rev our engines to 3000 rpms for 10 seconds then let it idle for ~ 50 secs anymore before turning the car off?... if you have the N flash?
04-11-2005, 09:49 AM
#159
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The purpose of the shutdown procedure when the engine is cold is to "sweep" fuel out of the combustion chambers. On cold startup, the duty cycle of the injectors at idle is much greater than at 3000 RPMs. Meaning more fuel is being dumped into the chambers at cold-start idle than at 3000 RPMs. By revving to 3000 RPMs for a few seconds and then cutting the ignition, the injectors (fuel) are shut off. The rotors continue to rotate and "sweep" the unspent fuel out of the chambers.
Revving to 3000 RPMs and then idling defeats the whole purpose. You should cut the ignition at 3000 RPMs.
And as a side note, keep the revs at 3000 ... NOT above 3250 ... this is where the second set of injectors will fire ... thus putting in more fuel. More is not better.
Revving to 3000 RPMs and then idling defeats the whole purpose. You should cut the ignition at 3000 RPMs.
And as a side note, keep the revs at 3000 ... NOT above 3250 ... this is where the second set of injectors will fire ... thus putting in more fuel. More is not better.
04-11-2005, 09:57 AM
#160
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so keep it at 3000rpms for 10 secs and keep it at 3000 as you shut it off everytime? i have never done this and im at 8,500 miles..is this a problem?
04-11-2005, 10:48 AM
#161
Well, I have had the n flash done and have driven it for a few days and yea it's a good flash.
I had been running 89 octane so I didnt replace my cz stage 2 in it until i ran that tank out and put shell 93 octane in it. Well---- the results---- are ----- theres a differance between n and m. With stage 2 and m i have a stutter between 3.5-4.5k under light thottle and light/heavy load. That improved some ON MY CAR. It did not elliminate it, but it did improve it. It has a more under the curve power than before( from the n) under WOT.
With M and the cz stage 2 below 5k and WOT I swear the car was a little slower if you put pedal to the metal. Seems like it bogs a little. It turns on as usual above 5k maybe a little better during the transition rpms. I did not have an area for me to check the lift throttle acceleration surge I have. I know that the car responds better with a leading throttle type driving style. So much for "OLDDRAGGER". I may have to change my name.
this is my story and I am sticking too it!
OD
I had been running 89 octane so I didnt replace my cz stage 2 in it until i ran that tank out and put shell 93 octane in it. Well---- the results---- are ----- theres a differance between n and m. With stage 2 and m i have a stutter between 3.5-4.5k under light thottle and light/heavy load. That improved some ON MY CAR. It did not elliminate it, but it did improve it. It has a more under the curve power than before( from the n) under WOT.
With M and the cz stage 2 below 5k and WOT I swear the car was a little slower if you put pedal to the metal. Seems like it bogs a little. It turns on as usual above 5k maybe a little better during the transition rpms. I did not have an area for me to check the lift throttle acceleration surge I have. I know that the car responds better with a leading throttle type driving style. So much for "OLDDRAGGER". I may have to change my name.
this is my story and I am sticking too it!
OD
04-11-2005, 10:52 AM
#162
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Originally Posted by jwbond
so keep it at 3000rpms for 10 secs and keep it at 3000 as you shut it off everytime? i have never done this and im at 8,500 miles..is this a problem?
Yes ... and I used to say the same thing at 10000 miles ... until I flooded. Follow the procedure.
04-11-2005, 02:10 PM
#163
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NOT every time. Just on cold starts where you move short distances.
Originally Posted by jwbond
so keep it at 3000rpms for 10 secs and keep it at 3000 as you shut it off everytime? i have never done this and im at 8,500 miles..is this a problem?
04-11-2005, 02:36 PM
#166
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I mean my shift **** shakes, indicating a rougher idle than when I had M flash. Although the car doesn't shake noticeably if you aren't touching my ****.
04-11-2005, 04:41 PM
#168
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Had my car flashed on Saturday to N from M...
I was with the tech when he did the flash and there where a few things listed under what it fixes/adjusts on the computer...
1) Idle is very smooth now
2) Better throttle response in lower RPMs
3) Smoother power delivery
4) A slight change in the sound under load at lower RPMs
5) A bit more power in the low RPMs
Looks like they may be getting it right...
I was with the tech when he did the flash and there where a few things listed under what it fixes/adjusts on the computer...
1) Idle is very smooth now
2) Better throttle response in lower RPMs
3) Smoother power delivery
4) A slight change in the sound under load at lower RPMs
5) A bit more power in the low RPMs
Looks like they may be getting it right...
Last edited by cortc; 04-11-2005 at 04:43 PM.
04-11-2005, 06:09 PM
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I have a ?. I have a 2005 rx-8 i think it was made and assembled in october of 2004. when i went to the dealership to get my sunroof fixed. i told them about any flashes to improve gas milage and the advisor was a dick about it, saying that it didnt need one that 12 mpg was normal, lol? anyways i just wanted to know do i need flashes? Or is my car up-to-date because its an 2005 model, and if i do, where can i get something from mazda stating that i need one, so the dealership will do it, becuase the 2nd nearest dealership is about 4 hours away.
04-11-2005, 06:57 PM
#172
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I'm at N flash, and it didn't improve my idle. Sometimes the whole car shakes so much that I can see the shaking in my side-view mirror. Do others have it this bad?
04-12-2005, 06:23 AM
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Went from the L to the N flash yesterday (N3ZD-18-881B it says on my receipt actually), and it was a significant difference. It was like driving a whole new car--it gets a heck of a lot better in the low RPMs. I don't know about anyone else, but I used to have it where the car would start to go sometimes then the RPMs would just drop (foot still on the gas), and I'd have to rev it way up to keep it from stalling. It looks like this flash fixed that problem, as well as added some extra pickup in the lower RPMs. Definitely worth getting, especially if you have the L flash right now.