Lets look at expo1's over 100K renesis motor
02-19-2008 | 06:23 PM
#1
Lets look at expo1's over 100K renesis motor
Paul got Expo's motor and its all apart now.
Report your findings here Paul !
Here is Expo's Motor Status :
111,900 miles when pulled
Started using Royal Purple 5w30 at 70,000
4oz Idemitsu Pre-mix per tank starting at 68,000
close to 30 hours track time (HPDE)
Compression check results done @ 98,000
Report your findings here Paul !
Here is Expo's Motor Status :
111,900 miles when pulled
Started using Royal Purple 5w30 at 70,000
4oz Idemitsu Pre-mix per tank starting at 68,000
close to 30 hours track time (HPDE)
Compression check results done @ 98,000
Last edited by nycgps; 02-19-2008 at 07:58 PM.
02-19-2008 | 06:44 PM
#2
He's as bad as Can
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 4,309
Likes: 2
From: Manchester, NJ
Some things to keep in mind
111,900 miles when pulled
Started using Royal Purple 5w30 at 70,000
4oz Idemitsu Pre-mix per tank starting at 68,000
close to 30 hours track time (HPDE)
Compression check results done @ 98,000
maintenance log located in THIS thread.
To Paul, if I did something wrong say so. This tear down thread is to help others.
111,900 miles when pulled
Started using Royal Purple 5w30 at 70,000
4oz Idemitsu Pre-mix per tank starting at 68,000
close to 30 hours track time (HPDE)
Compression check results done @ 98,000
maintenance log located in THIS thread.
To Paul, if I did something wrong say so. This tear down thread is to help others.
Last edited by expo1; 02-19-2008 at 06:56 PM.
02-19-2008 | 06:52 PM
#6
He's as bad as Can
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 4,309
Likes: 2
From: Manchester, NJ
Last edited by expo1; 02-19-2008 at 06:56 PM.
02-19-2008 | 06:59 PM
#7
By the way, before we get into the findings regarding 'the deceased' I would like to make these two statements: We recommend shifting to 10W40 and running the RE-medy water pump as some of the basic starting points for even longer life.
I hope that you find the documentation of this tear-down and analysis useful and informative.
Paul.
I hope that you find the documentation of this tear-down and analysis useful and informative.
Paul.
02-19-2008 | 07:19 PM
#8
in Japan, they all recommend really heavy weight oil even for Renesis. I've seen 45
I need to get some new oil soon hmm .... money goes to 5w40 maybe ? or 10w40, since its getting warm anyway.
I need to get some new oil soon hmm .... money goes to 5w40 maybe ? or 10w40, since its getting warm anyway.
02-19-2008 | 07:47 PM
#12
I dont really trust the 5w20 thing, so after around 5K miles I switch to 5w30.
Have been thinking about 5w40 for a while now.
Lets see what the motor looks like, then I'll make my order of my next oil
Have been thinking about 5w40 for a while now.
Lets see what the motor looks like, then I'll make my order of my next oil
02-19-2008 | 07:51 PM
#14
Im saying Maybe, just my thoughts.
02-19-2008 | 07:54 PM
#16
02-19-2008 | 08:16 PM
#18
road warrior
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,861
Likes: 3
From: Oakland and Los Angeles, CA
By the way, before we get into the findings regarding 'the deceased' I would like to make these two statements: We recommend shifting to 10W40 and running the RE-medy water pump as some of the basic starting points for even longer life.
I hope that you find the documentation of this tear-down and analysis useful and informative.
Paul.
I hope that you find the documentation of this tear-down and analysis useful and informative.
Paul.
02-19-2008 | 08:23 PM
#19
The Professor
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,479
Likes: 6
From: Omaha, NE
Uh, walmart $15/4 qts I think. I still use the Purolator PureOne.
I hate to say this without some sort of hard evidence, but my temp gauge doesn't lie. 10w40 keeps oil temps down too on the track and on the street.
Last edited by staticlag; 02-19-2008 at 08:27 PM.
02-19-2008 | 08:27 PM
#20
I'm using castrol gtx 10w40 full dino oil. After my crucible tests I found it burned cleaner at low temps than Royal Purple, Valvoline dino, or Mobil 1.
Uh, walmart $15 I think. I still use the Purolator PureOne.
I hate to say this without some sort of hard evidence, but my temp gauge doesn't lie. 10w40 keeps oil temps down too on the track and on the street.
Uh, walmart $15 I think. I still use the Purolator PureOne.
I hate to say this without some sort of hard evidence, but my temp gauge doesn't lie. 10w40 keeps oil temps down too on the track and on the street.
Im gonna try some Quaker state Advance Q or RP 5w40.
Ok now, we all go back and wait for Paul's post
02-19-2008 | 08:27 PM
#21
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 792
Likes: 2
The wear issue sounds related to RG post ( https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/renesis-engine-issues-finally-identified-138114/ ) about the problem of where the oil injectors are located.
I thought going to a very heavy oil would cause other types of lubrication problems as the OMP would not necessarily put enough of it out or the heavy oil would not do as a good of a job as the lighter oil at lubricating all the parts.
Therefore, the solution to our possible oil injector location problem, and thus wear problem, seems to be a good premix (not too much and not something that will clog or hurt performance).
The only setup I thought heavy oil (10w40 and up) was good for was racing and extreme heat, because the oil would break down faster and actually become a lighter weight.
Also, if you are using synthetic or dino that could make a difference in how fast the oil breaks down. With dino oil breaking down faster, so you can get away with using heavy dino oil (10w40), but you may not want to do that with a synthetic oil (which should be providing better protection anyway).
I thought going to a very heavy oil would cause other types of lubrication problems as the OMP would not necessarily put enough of it out or the heavy oil would not do as a good of a job as the lighter oil at lubricating all the parts.
Therefore, the solution to our possible oil injector location problem, and thus wear problem, seems to be a good premix (not too much and not something that will clog or hurt performance).
The only setup I thought heavy oil (10w40 and up) was good for was racing and extreme heat, because the oil would break down faster and actually become a lighter weight.
Also, if you are using synthetic or dino that could make a difference in how fast the oil breaks down. With dino oil breaking down faster, so you can get away with using heavy dino oil (10w40), but you may not want to do that with a synthetic oil (which should be providing better protection anyway).
Last edited by sosonic; 02-19-2008 at 08:30 PM.
02-19-2008 | 09:26 PM
#23
The wear issue sounds related to RG post ( https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=138114&page=1 ) about the problem of where the oil injectors are located.
I thought going to a very heavy oil would cause other types of lubrication problems as the OMP would not necessarily put enough of it out or the heavy oil would not do as a good of a job as the lighter oil at lubricating all the parts.
Therefore, the solution to our possible oil injector location problem, and thus wear problem, seems to be a good premix (not too much and not something that will clog or hurt performance).
The only setup I thought heavy oil (10w40 and up) was good for was racing and extreme heat, because the oil would break down faster and actually become a lighter weight.
Also, if you are using synthetic or dino that could make a difference in how fast the oil breaks down. With dino oil breaking down faster, so you can get away with using heavy dino oil (10w40), but you may not want to do that with a synthetic oil (which should be providing better protection anyway).
I thought going to a very heavy oil would cause other types of lubrication problems as the OMP would not necessarily put enough of it out or the heavy oil would not do as a good of a job as the lighter oil at lubricating all the parts.
Therefore, the solution to our possible oil injector location problem, and thus wear problem, seems to be a good premix (not too much and not something that will clog or hurt performance).
The only setup I thought heavy oil (10w40 and up) was good for was racing and extreme heat, because the oil would break down faster and actually become a lighter weight.
Also, if you are using synthetic or dino that could make a difference in how fast the oil breaks down. With dino oil breaking down faster, so you can get away with using heavy dino oil (10w40), but you may not want to do that with a synthetic oil (which should be providing better protection anyway).
5w20 means one organization - C.A.F.E.
02-19-2008 | 09:38 PM
#25
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 792
Likes: 2
True, I meant thick relative to 5W20 or 5W30.
I use synthetic 5W30, so I do believe in a little thicker and that 5W20 is too thin.
While Mazda was a bid crazy with recommending 5W20 in the U.S. Thinner oil does help a bit with MPG.
There is also the issue of when you start your car in the morning and the thickness of the oil. The thicker the oil, the more it thickens at night, and the more wear your engine might suffer when you start it up in the morning.
Why stop at 10W40? Why not 15W50 or 20W50 (except for winter)?
I use synthetic 5W30, so I do believe in a little thicker and that 5W20 is too thin.
While Mazda was a bid crazy with recommending 5W20 in the U.S. Thinner oil does help a bit with MPG.
There is also the issue of when you start your car in the morning and the thickness of the oil. The thicker the oil, the more it thickens at night, and the more wear your engine might suffer when you start it up in the morning.
Why stop at 10W40? Why not 15W50 or 20W50 (except for winter)?
Last edited by sosonic; 02-19-2008 at 10:17 PM.