Lets look at expo1's over 100K renesis motor
#227
10W40 oil?
I would go with 0W40, which some make like Mobil 1, or 0W30 oil. I think the wide range can help with the wear during startup, but be a thicker oil to offer more protection.
However, nobody really answered the question if the OMP will handle the thicker W40 oil properly.
Definitely would go synthetic and definitely consider ester based oil like Motul. I've switched to 0W30 Motul. They also say there is no problem mixing, dino or synthetic, but that is always a depend question.
That and Redline fuel system cleaner.
#233
The fog lights are right in front of the oil cooler, so you can use those to help warm the oil a little bit faster.
10W40 oil?
I would go with 0W40, which some make like Mobil 1, or 0W30 oil. I think the wide range can help with the wear during startup, but be a thicker oil to offer more protection.
However, nobody really answered the question if the OMP will handle the thicker W40 oil properly.
Definitely would go synthetic and definitely consider ester based oil like Motul. I've switched to 0W30 Motul. They also say there is no problem mixing, dino or synthetic, but that is always a depend question.
That and Redline fuel system cleaner.
10W40 oil?
I would go with 0W40, which some make like Mobil 1, or 0W30 oil. I think the wide range can help with the wear during startup, but be a thicker oil to offer more protection.
However, nobody really answered the question if the OMP will handle the thicker W40 oil properly.
Definitely would go synthetic and definitely consider ester based oil like Motul. I've switched to 0W30 Motul. They also say there is no problem mixing, dino or synthetic, but that is always a depend question.
That and Redline fuel system cleaner.
Paul.
#234
Paul.
#235
Paul.
#236
No means yes
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I like these recommendations. I would like to see Mazda adapt a separate oil-metering tank like the Sohn system on their future rotaries. Myself and others have been saying this for years. People (And especially modern women) don't need to be popping their hood every week or 2. A warning light, like on a fuel tank, showing you are at reserve level.
Paul.
Paul.
![Lol](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/lol.gif)
But yeah, a separate tank would be great.. Unfortunately it will likely never happen..
#237
Not only do they create negligable wear, they also will last indefinitely under the right conditions. Cost is the greatest downside, but you have to pay to play. They help make the most NA hp and longest engine life. They are more significant than port work in their effect on an engine in my opinion.
Paul.
#239
Registered
I know Ianetti apex seals are expensive (the best products always are!), but look at it this way. Assuming you plan to always keep your car and enjoy the thought of seeing it go several hundred thousand miles like I do, what is cheaper in the end. Is it paying nearly $2000 for a set of apex seals that allows your engine to make more power (which is more fun) and allowing it to last for over 200K miles, or is it cheaper to rebuild your engine twice in this amount of time with conventional seals and potentially lower performance?
If you plan on having your car for a long time, the Ceramics are the cheaper option. If you intend to own it for a few years and get rid of it, they aren't.
If you plan on having your car for a long time, the Ceramics are the cheaper option. If you intend to own it for a few years and get rid of it, they aren't.
#240
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Would the ceramics also allow the car to rev higher(say 10000 rpms) without fear of damaging anything? The twin-screw blower continues to build power the higher the rpms. I'm not saying I would constantly do that(I rarely go above 8k), but it would be nice to have.
#241
I love working on my car and all the extra attention it requires, but if Mazda ever wants to appeal to the average driver with the 8, they still have work to do and this thread is proving it. Maybe the '09 really does address the OMP issues but how long will it take one of us to put 100k miles on the new Renesis and compare?
#243
I just meant, the proof of whether the improvements helped will still be a few years down the road...
I put about 2k per month on mine, and am out of warranty so I try to follow all the suggestions on here for longevity. When I rolled over 60k I switched to Royal Purple and started premixing. I have a reman, which makes me nervous, too but so far has been reliable.
I put about 2k per month on mine, and am out of warranty so I try to follow all the suggestions on here for longevity. When I rolled over 60k I switched to Royal Purple and started premixing. I have a reman, which makes me nervous, too but so far has been reliable.
#245
but you have to remember other parts of the car might not be able to handle such high RPM for too long, especially the FW parts, you dont want it to fly out and kill you in the middle of the road.
#247
No means yes
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I think its the intake thats limiting power, these engines can go over 10K rpm w/o any problems.
but you have to remember other parts of the car might not be able to handle such high RPM for too long, especially the FW parts, you dont want it to fly out and kill you in the middle of the road.
but you have to remember other parts of the car might not be able to handle such high RPM for too long, especially the FW parts, you dont want it to fly out and kill you in the middle of the road.
Look in the NE forum for a "MA springs install" thread
#249
No means yes
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I disgree simply on philosophical premises, meaning devoid of any "real" mathematical data to prove it, that we can add almost 50% more fuel/oxidizer to the combustion process(no matter what RPM we are at) and still use the factory PCM maps to do it. As such, I have an idea I have finally gotten around to seriously pursuing that I think would be a better route to take. On the other hand, I am always open to the discussion and willing to listen to a convincing argument.