nycgps

iTrader: (1)

You can use 10w40, but that should be the *Starting* point.

I want to use 20w50 if NYC never snows.

I cant even use 15w40 cuz I think it will freeze up during winter months (like what. 7 degrees last year?)

so Im left with something like 0/5/10w40.

gundarx

why not stick with the GC 0w30? It's really great stuff. It's even more effective than most 10w40 oils in the long run.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Mobil1 0w40, here I come :D

Jedi54

iTrader: (7)

over 21,000 views.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I love the thread that I created

BMonkey

A Few Reasons:
Volatility
Oil Film Thickness
Thermal Stability
Oxidative Stability

Vasichko

iTrader: (1)

So going from the Castrol PDF I posted several pages back that NY noticed this;

Industry Specifications and OEM Approvals by Grade
SAE 5W-20: is a premium, multi-grade oil,providing cold start protection with Exceptional Fuel Economy. SAE 5W-20 exceeds API service SM, SL, SJ and SH, as well as exceeding ILSAC GF-4/GF-3/GF-2 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils. Exceeds Ford specifications WSS M2C153-H and WSS M2C930-A. Exceeds the service fill requirements of Ford, Honda and Chrysler where an SAE 5W-20 motor oil is specified. SAE 5W-20 should only be used in vehicles where SAE 5W-
20 is recommended by manufacturer.
SAE 5W-30: is a premium, super multi-grade that provides maximum cold weather engine protection and can help extend engine life. SAE 5W-30 exceeds API Service SM, SL, SJ and SH, as well as exceeding all the requirements of ILSAC GF-4/GF-3/GF-2 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils and meets Energy Conserving Standards. Exceeds GM6094M and Ford WSS M2C929-A.
SAE 10W-30: is a premium, super multi-grade that provides fuel economy and can help extend engine life. SAE 10W-30 exceeds API Service SM, SL, SJ and SH as well as exceeding all the requirements of ILSAC GF-4/GF-3/GF-2 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils and meets Energy Conserving Standards. Exceeds GM6094M
SAE 10W-40: is a premium, super multigrade that provides maximum protection in all seasons and can help extend engine life. SAE 10W-40 exceeds API service SM, SL, SJ and SH as well as exceeding the engine protection requirements for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils.
SAE 20W-50: is a premium, super multigrade that guards against wear by providing a superior oil film strength and extreme high temperature strength. 20W-50 exceeds API service SM, SL, SJ and SH. Use SAE 20W-50 when ambient temperature is above 20 F.

It seems like from Castrol's findings 5w20 is crap for the engine.

10w40 and 20w50 are going the be the best bet for safe guarding our motors.

So for daily driving should we run the 50 or the 40?

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I posted the *same message* from Castrol a month or 2 ago.

But of course, most people ignored it and still believes in *Mazda's* great 5w20 "crap"

BMonkey

For daily driving you don't need to go over 40. You're going to give up a little hp and a little fuel economy and you won't be pushing the engine hard enough to use the extra performance capability of the higher grade. Like I said in the Oil - Technical thread, I recommend seasonal oil changes so you can run a 10W in summer and there are a whole lot of good 0W oils to run in winter if you're up in NY or something. In the south where I am, 5W is good for winter since I've never seen it below the teens in winter here...ever.

OpTiCaL

Hmmm, apparently you didnt see there is a different between 10w40 and 15w40 so your over 40 comment is bs as 15w40 to XXw60 are the same!

nycgps, too bad more people don't read our posts!!!!!!

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Even 10w is good for NYC. Its a bit thick yes. but its still good to use.

I ordered 3 gallons of Redline 10w40 yesterday (got a 30 bucks off 100 coupon, cant say no to this deal) It should be able to last for the rest of the year (I still have a bunch of Syntec, 5w30/5w40 and 0w30, I will use them to my other cars, the *non-important* ones )

ShellDude

iTrader: (12)

friggin awesome thread! Anyone want to buy 6 quarts of 5w20?

r0tor

iTrader: (1)

the real problem is there is no thermostat bypass on the oil coolers.... on a 15 deg F day you can be driving for 20 minutes and the oil temps are still in the toilet. yea, that just really wants to make me run a thicker oil...

shaunv74

Is that the thermal pellet mod. that RacingBeat offers or is that doing the opposite?

CnnmnSchnpps

iTrader: (1)

I've heard different...

robrecht

If you're concerned your oil is too thick in winter, why not just run a little thicker in summer and a little thinner than that in winter?

BMonkey

n00b

That's the SAE J300 in your other post, I know, I wrote a little oil thread of my own. You should really read more about oil before you take the SAE J300 as the end-all be-all. Or maybe just read... The 3.7 cP is the minimum viscosity at 150ºC, not what the viscosty is (Though the 40 grade oils with 3.7 as a minimum are 15W-40, 20W-40 and 25W-40... good luck finding alot of those). Our cars don't have a designed operating oil temperature of 150ºC, it's closer to 100ºC. Now look at the chart again, there are distinct jumps from 40 to 50 to 60 in the min/max shear rate. Go read Oil - Technical

RotoRocket

iTrader: (1)

I am more confused than ever after reading this thread.

Ugh.

OpTiCaL

I never said anything about the end all of end alls. It was techincal oil data taken from a website, so i dunno what you are getting at there.

Old Rotor

Mazda does recommend 5W20 but they also say use whats best for your environment so if it's HOT where you drive use a heavier grade. Here is what the manual says..........

Engine oil viscosity, or thickness, has an
effect on fuel economy and cold-weather
operation (starting and oil flow).
Low-viscosity engine oils can provide
improved fuel economy and cold-weather
performance.
But high-temperature weather conditions
require higher-viscosity engine oils for
satisfactory lubrication.

BMonkey

The point I was getting at is you took the J300 out of context when you said that 40, 50 and 60 grade oils all have the same viscosity.

OpTiCaL

Oh ok!

earlie023

iTrader: (1)

ArYt everyOnE!!! before you read this..... just wanna let you know that i just found this article in the internet.... i just posted this for you guys to give a comment about it... coz i also wanna keep my engine running forever...... need your help..... i actually don't know anything about my engine at this point.... haha!!


The following is my conclusion from reading the discussions about RX 8's rotary engine failure problems from other RX 8 forums on the Internet and from currently owning a 2005 RX 8. You can form your own conclusions

The only thing wrong with Mazda RX 8's sold in the USA is that Mazda USA requires the use of a very thin light weight 5W-20 oil that breaks down and cannot protect the rotary engine and catalytic converter from early failure, because the normally very hot running engine runs very, very hot especially in slow traffic and long drives in warm weather. Every city in the USA has slow traffic jams and warm weather so what good is the RX 8 using this oil in the USA.

Every where else in the World (except in the USA) Mazda requires in the RX 8 Owners Manual the use of 5W-30 oil to adequately protect the very same hot running rotary engine that is in RX 8's in the USA. The heavier oil protects the engine and oil seals from failure and prevents oil blow by from ruining the catalytic converter, for over 200,000+ miles, as documented in many forums on the web.

For example, printed on Castrol bottles of 5W-20 weight synthetic oil, says "use only in cars used for short trips" and another 5W-20 Castrol bottle of non synthetic oil says "use only if required by the car manufacture". Other wise, Castrol ,who sets the standard for excellent oil, does not recommend the use of 5W-20 oil unless directed to by the car manufacture or for short trips.

In addition, Castrol can be objective with out any conflicts of interest about which oil weight not to use to protect an engine, because it does not manufacture cars nor have any vested interests or concerns about meeting EPA miles per gallon requirements to avoid fines.

In the USA the RX 8 engines using the very light 5W-20 weight oil last maybe for around 30,000 miles before needing to be rebuilt a number of times before and after expiration of the warranty. This is probably why Mazda now only warrants the car for 3 years or 36,000 miles instead of the prior warranty of 5 years or 50,000 miles. This is also clearly documented in many RX 8 owner web sites.

However, in the USA Mazda requires the use of inadequate light weight 5W-20 oil in order for Mazda to meet EPA miles per gallon (MPG) gas consumption requirements. This light weight oil shortens the life of this normally very hot running rotary motor to around 30,000 miles, at the expense of the consumer who needs to keep spending lots of money and time to keep it running.

The owners must keep them running because no dealership wants to take the car in on trade or offer a fair amount on trade due to the now widely known problems Mazda has caused to happen to the RX 8

New buyers should consider not buying Mazda RX 8 cars until Mazda permits USA owners to also use non synthetic 5W-30 oil in their rotary engine, without loosing their warranty, as Mazda recommends throughout the rest of the World. Mazda could still put in the USA, RX 8 owners manual, recommendations to use 5W-20 oil to satisfy EPA , but not cancel the warranty of those who wisely choose to use non synthetic 5W-30 oil as recommended by Mazda, thorough out the rest of the World.

A class action law suit will straighten out Mazda and increase the life of our cars and make the car worth a proper amount when traded. RX 8 owners in the USA did not buy their RX 8 with full disclosure by the Mazda dealership that the car motor and catalytic would wear out much, much quicker than other cars, due to Mazda oil requirements in the USA nor how Mazda treats the USA RX 8 customer.

My Mazda dealership before purchase told me the RX 8 motor would last over 200,000+ miles because it was the nature of rotary engines. With the first oil change though they also told me they would not put 5W-30 weight oil in my RX 8 because according to them it would damage the engine (which is a lie) and would void the warranty, according to Mazda USA. Well it is common knowledge now with the USA Mazda required use of 5W-20 oil that the engine will not last 200,000 miles as advertised and more like it the motor will only last around 30,000 miles before needing to be rebuilt again and again etc.

Every RX 8 owner in the USA had better individually or join together to fight the Mazda lies about the weight of oil to use in their RX 8 or their motor's will have a very short life with no one to blame in the long run except for your own lack of sticking up for yourself and what you know is right.








***not an expert.... actually i know nothing about my engine at this point.... but i found this article..... any comments about this? thanks...***

earlie023

iTrader: (1)

here's one more info i found in the internet.... click the link below....


http://www.drive.com.au/recommended-...2/results.html

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

where you got that from ? most of us know that 5w20 is a joke but the motor will work(for most) just fine for more than 30,000 miles. Its just that there are invisible wear that the "problems" wont show until maybe 50K miles or later

CAFE cost a lot of engine rebuilds, not just Rotary. But sadly MOST PEOPLE does not know about it, all they know is "oh they recommend it". check other forums for engine breakdowns. and see pictures of "opened" up engines that use nothing but 5w20, u'll be surprise by how much stupid wear it has (compare to 5w30 or higher)