Lets look at expo1's over 100K renesis motor
07-06-2008, 07:59 AM
#551
The heavier oil protects the engine and oil seals from failure and prevents oil blow by from ruining the catalytic converter, for over 200,000+ miles, as documented in many forums on the web.
In the USA the RX 8 engines using the very light 5W-20 weight oil last maybe for around 30,000 miles before needing to be rebuilt a number of times before and after expiration of the warranty.
This is probably why Mazda now only warrants the car for 3 years or 36,000 miles instead of the prior warranty of 5 years or 50,000 miles. This is also clearly documented in many RX 8 owner web sites.
did not buy their RX 8 with full disclosure by the Mazda dealership that the car motor and catalytic would wear out much, much quicker than other cars, due to Mazda oil requirements in the USA nor how Mazda treats the USA RX 8 customer.
***not an expert.... actually i know nothing about my engine at this point.... but i found this article..... any comments about this? thanks...***
07-06-2008, 05:20 PM
#553
Lubricious
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ArYt everyOnE!!! before you read this..... just wanna let you know that i just found this article in the internet.... i just posted this for you guys to give a comment about it... coz i also wanna keep my engine running forever...... need your help..... i actually don't know anything about my engine at this point.... haha!!
http://forums.automotive.com/70/6210...lem/index.html
or here:
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f11b97c/0
Which one can see, is not "an article on the internet", but really just one person's post on a message board. A user named "Old Timer" with a total of 1 post on that board.
Which is fine to discuss, but we need to be clear that this isn't an article of any kind of formal publication.There are kernels of truth in the quote, but a lot of exaggerations also. Nothing which is not commonly discussed on this forum (or this very thread!), in more depth and without the hyperbole.
11-07-2008, 03:57 PM
#554
Super Moderator
Great thread Expo! and Paul, thanks.
Goes to prove what I said about 3 years ago that the recommended oil ain't good enough. We have heard this from too many sources and RENESIS rebuilds for this not to be true. Go for a 10/15W40 at least.
You guys in the US are now fortunate to have an 8 year engine warranty.
It is a pity "other" distributors around the world won't do the same.
Good to see Mazda have incorporated improvements in the 09 RENESIS with the 3rd injector to help Apex seal wear.
Goes to prove what I said about 3 years ago that the recommended oil ain't good enough. We have heard this from too many sources and RENESIS rebuilds for this not to be true. Go for a 10/15W40 at least.
You guys in the US are now fortunate to have an 8 year engine warranty.
It is a pity "other" distributors around the world won't do the same.
Good to see Mazda have incorporated improvements in the 09 RENESIS with the 3rd injector to help Apex seal wear.
07-07-2009, 04:05 AM
#556
Registered
07-07-2009, 07:28 AM
#558
07-07-2009, 09:47 AM
#559
This was my response from post #130 regarding the scrapes on the rotor housings:
These rotor housings have that groove on both sides of each housing. The apex corner tip and the other side are scraping the chrome surface away. The apex seals were warped in the middle and have ridges along their sides where they'd been rocking in their grooves. The carbon patch on that housing pic is from the seal skipping over the sparkplug hole.
Paul.
These rotor housings have that groove on both sides of each housing. The apex corner tip and the other side are scraping the chrome surface away. The apex seals were warped in the middle and have ridges along their sides where they'd been rocking in their grooves. The carbon patch on that housing pic is from the seal skipping over the sparkplug hole.
Paul.
07-10-2009, 05:31 PM
#560
Important oil note!
I concluded quite some time ago and have wanted to mention it but haven't had the chance:
Expo's switch to a full synthetic at 70k+ miles was the contributing factor in the oil leaks that led to the dis-assembly. There were actuall signs of leaks from more than one place and this is typical of the result of buildup around seals that the synthetic comes in and dislodges causing a problem and general degredation of the seals from some dino oils . On an RX8 it is a catastrphe to have an front main oil seal leak since it is not easily accessible.
Paul.
Expo's switch to a full synthetic at 70k+ miles was the contributing factor in the oil leaks that led to the dis-assembly. There were actuall signs of leaks from more than one place and this is typical of the result of buildup around seals that the synthetic comes in and dislodges causing a problem and general degredation of the seals from some dino oils . On an RX8 it is a catastrphe to have an front main oil seal leak since it is not easily accessible.
Paul.
07-10-2009, 05:46 PM
#562
07-10-2009, 05:50 PM
#563
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
I'm just reading as much as I can right now, My last rebuild only lasted 73k on 10W30 Castrol GTX. I plan on running 20W40 Dino just because my first engine ran Mobil 1 synthetic and it only made it til' 22k.
07-10-2009, 07:09 PM
#566
The message came home for me a few months ago when one of my employees switched to Red Line at my suggestion in his 91 turbocharged Miata. He developed leaks and smoke from everywhere afterward. He totally blames Red Line although none of his seals were ever checked or changed. Old crapped out seals may hide their deformity and crud with the 'same old' dino oil but syn will bring them to light (That almost sounds religious). I was puzzled with this young man's predicament and Rick explained it to me. I then saw an explanation from Amsoil saying the same thing. A proper modern synthetic will keep seals supple and sealing but they can cause problems with crappy nasty old seals that are on their way out already.
Paul.
Paul.
07-10-2009, 07:41 PM
#567
He's as bad as Can
This thread should become a sticky. My old engine continues to provide valuable information. I have not heard of the switching to Synth late issue before. By the way Paul the engine I purchased from you has 32,000 on it and it is running fine. It also looks like it will continue to run on Royal Purple 
07-10-2009, 08:06 PM
#568
great note paul..
my first motor went 55k miles with rp.. never an issue with the oil..
the motor i have now has just over 55k miles on it with dino.. i changed because my source of royal purple dried up.. karlracing is gone..
was to lazy to buy it in anything but a 5 gal jug..
i guess this motor stays dino..
beers
my first motor went 55k miles with rp.. never an issue with the oil..
the motor i have now has just over 55k miles on it with dino.. i changed because my source of royal purple dried up.. karlracing is gone..
was to lazy to buy it in anything but a 5 gal jug..
i guess this motor stays dino..
beers
07-10-2009, 10:27 PM
#570
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Good info. I had heard that could be the case with older engines leaking due to the switch to the highly detergent properties of some synth oils. In piston engines, it just means a slow drip on the floor. Good to know about the dangers of it in our Renesis engines.
Mine has 113k miles on it, all dino. I switched to 20w40 back in January because of this thread. Still running strong. I'm sticking with my dino 20w40. (Havoline if you're wondering)
Mine has 113k miles on it, all dino. I switched to 20w40 back in January because of this thread. Still running strong. I'm sticking with my dino 20w40. (Havoline if you're wondering)
07-11-2009, 06:55 AM
#571
Carbonormous
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I love my Havoline. Too bad it's getting really scarce. Walmart seems to have stopped carrying the 5qt jugs. I've heard the Chevron oil is the same on Bob is the Oil Guy, can't find that either.
07-11-2009, 07:47 AM
#572
The message came home for me a few months ago when one of my employees switched to Red Line at my suggestion in his 91 turbocharged Miata. He developed leaks and smoke from everywhere afterward. He totally blames Red Line although none of his seals were ever checked or changed. Old crapped out seals may hide their deformity and crud with the 'same old' dino oil but syn will bring them to light (That almost sounds religious). I was puzzled with this young man's predicament and Rick explained it to me. I then saw an explanation from Amsoil saying the same thing. A proper modern synthetic will keep seals supple and sealing but they can cause problems with crappy nasty old seals that are on their way out already.
Paul.
Paul.
with Dino you gonna get a lot of build up. if one day you switch to synthetic, synthetic oil will "clean those" gunk away, but after all these years the seals got raped by the gunk already. so if u wash the gunk away, you will have a leak.
in the other words, synthetic oil cannot reverse damage.
So just start with Synthetic and you wont have a problem.
<--------------------- me me me !
07-11-2009, 10:53 AM
#574
how about "motorcycle" oil?
how many different ways can we find to brand and market something to someone who is willing to spend $2 extra dollars for "the best"?
Look at the specifications of the mfgr and of the oil. The Shell oil you are talking about even says "FOR GAS APPLICATIONS" right on it and the website.
how many different ways can we find to brand and market something to someone who is willing to spend $2 extra dollars for "the best"?
Look at the specifications of the mfgr and of the oil. The Shell oil you are talking about even says "FOR GAS APPLICATIONS" right on it and the website.
