Lets look at expo1's over 100K renesis motor
#576
Registered
I concluded quite some time ago and have wanted to mention it but haven't had the chance:
Expo's switch to a full synthetic at 70k+ miles was the contributing factor in the oil leaks that led to the dis-assembly. There were actuall signs of leaks from more than one place and this is typical of the result of buildup around seals that the synthetic comes in and dislodges causing a problem and general degredation of the seals from some dino oils . On an RX8 it is a catastrphe to have an front main oil seal leak since it is not easily accessible.
Paul.
Expo's switch to a full synthetic at 70k+ miles was the contributing factor in the oil leaks that led to the dis-assembly. There were actuall signs of leaks from more than one place and this is typical of the result of buildup around seals that the synthetic comes in and dislodges causing a problem and general degredation of the seals from some dino oils . On an RX8 it is a catastrphe to have an front main oil seal leak since it is not easily accessible.
Paul.
So Paul what is the recommendation about switching to synthetic oil.
Can I switch to full synthetic ? My engine has 17.000 miles and 1 year of operation. Or is it too late?
#580
Paul.
#582
#583
Registered
The message came home for me a few months ago when one of my employees switched to Red Line at my suggestion in his 91 turbocharged Miata. He developed leaks and smoke from everywhere afterward. He totally blames Red Line although none of his seals were ever checked or changed. Old crapped out seals may hide their deformity and crud with the 'same old' dino oil but syn will bring them to light (That almost sounds religious). I was puzzled with this young man's predicament and Rick explained it to me. I then saw an explanation from Amsoil saying the same thing. A proper modern synthetic will keep seals supple and sealing but they can cause problems with crappy nasty old seals that are on their way out already.
Paul.
Paul.
Paul does bring up a good point though about switching vs not switching to synthetics. If a synthetic oil is better (I won't argue that) and you are using it from the beginning, or at least before any seal degredation and buildup occur, then your seals should stay cleaner and better conditioned during the motors life. If you use a conventional oil, and obviously quality differs from brand to brand, and your seals don't stay as well conditioned and gunk does build up which is helping them to seal, then switching to an oil later that will help clean gunk off can really only lead to nice clean seals that already have damage done to them. Damage that was being bandaided by gunk buildup.
I bought my '90 RX-7 at the end of January with 120,000 miles on it but I've actually left it with conventional oil in it although I've always sworn by Royal Purple and run it in my other cars (that I've owned since day 1). I've really only left it with conventional in it because I don't know how it was treated over it's life and with that many miles on it I figure what's done is done and I can't change it anyways. In truth I've actually never thought about any issues with switching later but if Paul is seeing results based on people who have done this then there's little room to argue with it. Result are results and I trust Paul and Rick more than I trust my own mother! Don't tell her that though!
I will say that based on the other thread about oil weight, since I am crazy and always seem to have a spare motor somewhere, I tried 1 oil change in my RX-7 using 5W20 to see if I could feel a difference. I still have plenty of oil pressure. The car did seem to run pretty smooth and mileage might have improved by a half an mpg or so. I'm pretty consistent but either way it's not much if there was even a benefit. However one thing I did notice is that after about 1200 miles or so, the smoothness has tapered off quite a bit. The mileage hasn't changed but now I've got concerns over whether or not I'm doing harm to the bearings and gears. I am probably going to change the oil out this weekend and for curiosity sake I'm going to send it over to Blackstone labs for a used oil analysis. I'll post the results when I get them.
#584
8lover
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so i read this thread and i must say it was a good read but i do have a question for paul or anyother one that can answer it, i have been reading alot on here(not much else to do in iraq thanks to the sofa agrement)
i was thinking about switching to synthetic but after reading the last 2 pages i was wanting to know what you think it is safe to switch from dino to synthetic?? i have around 40,000 miles on my car do you think that it would be too late for me to switch?? thanks
i was thinking about switching to synthetic but after reading the last 2 pages i was wanting to know what you think it is safe to switch from dino to synthetic?? i have around 40,000 miles on my car do you think that it would be too late for me to switch?? thanks
#586
hukbong himpapawid
so i read this thread and i must say it was a good read but i do have a question for paul or anyother one that can answer it, i have been reading alot on here(not much else to do in iraq thanks to the sofa agrement)
i was thinking about switching to synthetic but after reading the last 2 pages i was wanting to know what you think it is safe to switch from dino to synthetic?? i have around 40,000 miles on my car do you think that it would be too late for me to switch?? thanks
i was thinking about switching to synthetic but after reading the last 2 pages i was wanting to know what you think it is safe to switch from dino to synthetic?? i have around 40,000 miles on my car do you think that it would be too late for me to switch?? thanks
btw, I just got back from Balad/Al Asad/Speicher/Kirkuk/Mosul/Tall Afar and Q West a few months ago. Stay safe!
#587
Registered
In truth I've actually never thought about any issues with switching later but if Paul is seeing results based on people who have done this then there's little room to argue with it. Result are results and I trust Paul and Rick more than I trust my own mother! Don't tell her that though!
Last edited by robrecht; 08-14-2009 at 03:04 AM.
#588
I've read all the posts in this thread, and I'm still left with a question:
If I live in a 4 season state (Maryland), what oil should I really get. It seems 5W-20 is definitely out, but there seems to be some discrepancy between if I should use 5W-30 and 10W-40 (the two most recommended).
If someone could clear this up for me, that would be great!
If I live in a 4 season state (Maryland), what oil should I really get. It seems 5W-20 is definitely out, but there seems to be some discrepancy between if I should use 5W-30 and 10W-40 (the two most recommended).
If someone could clear this up for me, that would be great!
#589
Super Moderator
/\ Personally I would go for the latter, particularly if you renew your oil only at the scheduled service intervals...
Sorry, I know I will make someones blood boil, but I am just not a fan of 0W or 5W anything in a rotary,...,but that is just me and a few other oldies and engine re-builders.
Sorry, I know I will make someones blood boil, but I am just not a fan of 0W or 5W anything in a rotary,...,but that is just me and a few other oldies and engine re-builders.
#593
Rotary , eh?
iTrader: (1)
TYPICAL PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
AMSOIL High Performance Synthetic 20W-50 Motor Oil (ARO)
Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt (ASTM D-445): 18.9
Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt (ASTM D-445): 123.8
Viscosity Index (ASTM D-2270): 172
CCS Viscosity @ -15°C, cP (ASTM D-5293): 3525 (-15)
Pour Point °C (°F) (ASTM D 97): -36 (-33)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TYPICAL TECHNICAL PROPERTIES
AMSOIL XL 5W-30 SYNTHETIC MOTOR OIL
Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt (ASTM D-445): 10.5
Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt (ASTM D-445): 58.2
Viscosity Index (ASTM D-2270): 173
CCS Viscosity, cP @ (°C) (ASTM D-5293): 4341 (-30)
Pour Point °C (°F) (ASTM D-97): -43 (-45)
In the AMSoil 20w50 there is a HUGE jump in viscosity just between 100*C and 40*C. I would hate to see what that number is like at 0*C and think about startup conditions. The cold viscosity (40*C) in the 5w-30 is drastically lower. And you can see the pour point is higher on the 20w, more proof that is does thicken up and slow down in colder temps more quickly.
I just don't understand why everyone always tries to apply one blanket solution for drastically different conditions.
#595
Rotary Junkie
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This thread has some wonderful information about oil usage but I feel there is one area that hasn't been touch on too much Paul. Once again thank yo for the many explanations, but besides mentioning that premix is good for the engine, can you touch base on how much is the perceived "ideal amount is?" I know many people including myself are running 4 oz per tank (around ~13 gal. fill-ups). Just want to know your thoughts about premix in general. Thanks.
-Chris
-Chris
#596
where is the proof of that?
TYPICAL PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
AMSOIL High Performance Synthetic 20W-50 Motor Oil (ARO)
Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt (ASTM D-445): 18.9
Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt (ASTM D-445): 123.8
Viscosity Index (ASTM D-2270): 172
CCS Viscosity @ -15°C, cP (ASTM D-5293): 3525 (-15)
Pour Point °C (°F) (ASTM D 97): -36 (-33)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TYPICAL TECHNICAL PROPERTIES
AMSOIL XL 5W-30 SYNTHETIC MOTOR OIL
Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt (ASTM D-445): 10.5
Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt (ASTM D-445): 58.2
Viscosity Index (ASTM D-2270): 173
CCS Viscosity, cP @ (°C) (ASTM D-5293): 4341 (-30)
Pour Point °C (°F) (ASTM D-97): -43 (-45)
In the AMSoil 20w50 there is a HUGE jump in viscosity just between 100*C and 40*C. I would hate to see what that number is like at 0*C and think about startup conditions. The cold viscosity (40*C) in the 5w-30 is drastically lower. And you can see the pour point is higher on the 20w, more proof that is does thicken up and slow down in colder temps more quickly.
I just don't understand why everyone always tries to apply one blanket solution for drastically different conditions.
TYPICAL PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
AMSOIL High Performance Synthetic 20W-50 Motor Oil (ARO)
Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt (ASTM D-445): 18.9
Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt (ASTM D-445): 123.8
Viscosity Index (ASTM D-2270): 172
CCS Viscosity @ -15°C, cP (ASTM D-5293): 3525 (-15)
Pour Point °C (°F) (ASTM D 97): -36 (-33)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TYPICAL TECHNICAL PROPERTIES
AMSOIL XL 5W-30 SYNTHETIC MOTOR OIL
Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt (ASTM D-445): 10.5
Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt (ASTM D-445): 58.2
Viscosity Index (ASTM D-2270): 173
CCS Viscosity, cP @ (°C) (ASTM D-5293): 4341 (-30)
Pour Point °C (°F) (ASTM D-97): -43 (-45)
In the AMSoil 20w50 there is a HUGE jump in viscosity just between 100*C and 40*C. I would hate to see what that number is like at 0*C and think about startup conditions. The cold viscosity (40*C) in the 5w-30 is drastically lower. And you can see the pour point is higher on the 20w, more proof that is does thicken up and slow down in colder temps more quickly.
I just don't understand why everyone always tries to apply one blanket solution for drastically different conditions.
We can argue this all day. But the hard proof here is the engine wear. Maybe if you can show me something with no noticeable wear. Then we will talk again
Andd the different season with different oil thing. Imo, its just a waste of time.
Just use one oil for all year long.
Last edited by nycgps; 04-28-2010 at 09:22 AM.
#597
Registered
This thread has some wonderful information about oil usage but I feel there is one area that hasn't been touch on too much Paul. Once again thank yo for the many explanations, but besides mentioning that premix is good for the engine, can you touch base on how much is the perceived "ideal amount is?" I know many people including myself are running 4 oz per tank (around ~13 gal. fill-ups). Just want to know your thoughts about premix in general. Thanks.
-Chris
-Chris
#598
This thread has some wonderful information about oil usage but I feel there is one area that hasn't been touch on too much Paul. Once again thank yo for the many explanations, but besides mentioning that premix is good for the engine, can you touch base on how much is the perceived "ideal amount is?" I know many people including myself are running 4 oz per tank (around ~13 gal. fill-ups). Just want to know your thoughts about premix in general. Thanks.
-Chris
-Chris
First I'd like to point out that I made a comment regarding Expo's pre-mix amount to which I don't presently hold. I don't blame his carbon build up on that but rather a/f ratios in conjunction with other factors of design.
We have run 1oz/Gallon (Pre-mix/Petroleum) in the past on our race cars and are experimenting with 2oz/Gallon of Red Line 2 stroke Pre-mix (Synthetic). Keep in mind that our race cars do not have the oil metering system at all. When on the street, we (The discerning RX8 enthusiat) add a pre-mix lubricant, we are supplementing an existing system. For that reason, I'm not sure that we need to run more than .5oz/Gallon on the street and of course some people's cars seem to use more oil in metering than others with variables that include driving style amongst other things.
I hope that's halfway helpful.
Paul.
#599