Is it true that a lightweight flywheel could have negative effect on idling? (rough idling & engine trembling).

 

It tends to on engines with big pistons/torque pulses and lots of overlap, but the renesis has neither...

Careful when buying them too as most people will only state a weight, which isn't the important bit - you want the moment of inertia.

 

Well that's nice, what's wrong with my caution exactly?

My flywheel and clutch setup weighs just 4lb less than standard, but it'll still spin up faster than any off-the-shelf replacement you have no matter how light they are, because the moment of inertia is far lower.

 

Moment of inertia is mathematical brilliance now is it?
Should no-one offer any advice any more then as they are obviously 'showing off'?

You can quite happily buy the component, your slight problem being it won't fit your gearbox, so what relevance does that have?

It's not difficult to ask for the moi from the manufacturers before buying.


And what exactly is wrong with the Lasse thread, someone said that his tubular header would make no difference and a few of us explained why it still can and the physics behind it, is that a crime now?

 

The few that are interested in a lightweight flywheel you would hope....

 

i can make it simple.

buy this.

 

Unfortunately I haven't yet read every thread on the internet, sorry, I really should try more.

As for the second bit, it's called an example, they're handy things.

 

And that's fine, you know what's on the market and what works, so suggested them, which is probably more use to him.
I don't, as I have no interest in what's available, but I can offer advice on comparing them which most people miss out, and did so, which can still help him.

 

Not much use for you I'm afraid, it mates to a 140mm AP clutch basket and bespoke gearbox.

 

Exactly that, but some of alloy flywheels which are heavier can have a lower MOI as the weight is in the centre to take the torque from the mating face and the outer ring section is very, very light.

Mine weighs 4lb less than the standard setup (it's a lot thicker, hence the weight), so probably similar to what you'd lose from a lightweight flywheel.
But it'll still have far more difference on the engine.

See, now it's starting to get boring

 

Nice this is the setup I want to go to but I am waiting to have to change my clutch to do it.

Can I now have all the kinetic and potential properties for this setup.

Also how are they going to effect my inhertia and specially my Flux capacitor?

LMFAO!!!

mysql did you put these on yet or are you still working on the tranny?

Did you do the work your self to put the fly wheel on or how much did it cost if you don'tmind me asking.

Cause if it's not to expensive I might not wait for the clutch to go what do you think?

Ray it's not X-Mas yet I didn't even get Coal.

 

ACT claims 80% less inertia than OEM.


Dealer is installing a new transmission next week. They're going to do the clutch and flywheel for me at the same time. When I asked the dealer how much extra for flywheel and clutch, he told me not to worry about it. He'd take care of it for me. Prior discussions put it at $350 labor, but I assume they're not charging me




If your car has 20-50k miles, I would just wait till you decide to get a new clutch. If your car has less than 20k, then it'll be a while for the clutch to need replacement, so may as well go now.

 

I have 17k, I have some prioritizing to do.

Thanks

 

**** I forgot about that. Thanks!!!!

 

I have the Fidanza flywheel, and the reasons I choose it were three fold; 1) My local parts guy had it in stock so it was ready to go and he cut me a deal, 2) Lightest flywheel out there for the 8, 3) Has a replaceable friction surface disc on the surface of the flywheel, so when you need to replace your clutch, you just replace this disc instead of having to get the flywheel resurfaced or even replace the whole thing, like you have to do with the ACT...

 

I would recommend just waiting. The gains from a flywheel aren't sigificant.

 

Given how cheap a flywheel is and how rarely a clutch is replaced, I wouldnt base my decision much on those points.

Fidnza fly is lighter but lighter doesnt mean less inertia, which is what actually counts. Do we have specs to compare?

 

If $280 some every time your clutch needs to be replaced, plus possibly waiting, is "cheap" to you then that's great, but I don't want to have to buy a new flywheel every time I need a clutch. Even if you can afford it, why not save the money?

 

This is true, but if it is beat you will need a new flywheel. If it isn't bad, you need to get it resurfaced.

 

One of the reasons I got the Fidanza is the replaceable fiction surface.

From the *looks* of the Flywheel itself, it seems that they cut most of the weight on the *outside* of the FW. so it should be alright. how many % I dont know.

 

Thanks for the info guys. 2 more things:

a) Will the lightweight flywheel result in more fuel consumption?
b) Do you usually need to replace something else with this to work more efficiently? i.e clutch, or you just mention clutch in terms of labour costs.

 

the clutch is a wear item. it will eventually need to be replaced. Since they have to drop the transmission to get the flywheel in, usually you would also replace the clutch at the same time. Otherwise when you later do the clutch, you'll end up paying for labor twice.

 

what about fuel consumption? will it be affected?

 

I appreciate your posts but ACT doesn't make this claim. Trust me, I would know since I designed the part. I just don't want people to get the wrong information. We have MOI for our flywheel (thanks to Solidworks design software) but we don't have the stock flwheel (or counterweight for that matter) modeled so there is no way to calculate the difference at this point in time.

 

Good information to know I'm reciting the 80% claim from what I've read on sales sites, here's one: http://www.rx7store.net/ACT_Flywheel_p/proliterx8.htm