i went all around and made sure there were no air pockets in the lines. The peddle was still crappy, but after a day or two it worked itself out and feels fine since.

 

I bled all four corners again and it didn't make a difference. Then I bled the master again and everything is perfect.

 

Thanks for bumping an almost 2 year old thread.

 

Should I have started a new one?

 

Or maybe just have read and not posted anything.

 

bluerenesis, please get off his nuts.

he obviously searched his question, found the right thread, and posted in it. to which mysql posted an answer, and now.. everyone is happy.

except you.

 

Oh ****, my bad. I didn't see the original post he made. For some reason all I saw was the response where he said something else.
Sorry avakiannl and kersh

 

1. put in fluid .. little low
2. may need to re- bleed.

 

Not sure if anyone mentioned...as I am too lazy to go thru it all...but...

1) Speedbleeders (Including the Russell) have been known to fail during track use...I would advise you to purchase the vac and not risk the issue...

2) Its easier to alternate between ATE Blue and ATE Gold...it's the same stuff and you can tell when you have completely bled the system.

 

How did the Speedbleeders fail?

 

It starts leaking probably due to too many rapid hard stops.

Speedbleeders are cheap but I dont really trust them. For me, I just bleed my brakes in the old fashion way. works for me

 

Various reports...but basically loss of pressure...

I had a buddy at TWS who first told me about it...then after looking thru the forum here, some of the other track ****** reported the same thing...

 

Hmmm I wonder if it is because they did not tighten them enough.

I haven't had any issue with my stainless bleeders but I push harder on the gas than the brakes.

 

No...apparently the failures had to do with the check ball allowing fluid to pass regardless of how tight you had em...

 

That doesn't seem right unless there is a manufacturing defect and they did't seat properly to form a good seal. There should be no fluid pressure at the check ball if they are tightened properly. Any pressure there would definityly leak. They seal the fluid before getting into the check ball chamber.

 

Again...while I have not had it happen to me...a few other track ****** on here and NOT on here have...I'm just relaying the information...

 

This could happen if a person used the bleeders a lot and did not re-apply the sealant around the bleeder.

If the sealant leaks air then it could leak fluid.

What temperature does the sealant break down? If they are getting hot enough to break down the sealant that could be the cause.

 

Yesterday was the first time i changed my brake fluid myself. I did it at a friend's house and I used the valvoline dot 3/4 brake fluid. I began by bleeding the RR, LR, RF and LF. It was getting too late fumble with the clutch bleeder. I also didnt bleed the brake master cylinder and on the drive home, i did notice the brakes come on a little further down the pedal. Stopping power is good.

Few questions:
What is the purpose of bleeding the brake master cylinder first and then last?
Is the OEM mazda brake fluid not synthetic therefore not able to be mixed with the valvoline synthetic?

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dKwY80HkTxo

here is a funny but informative video on it

 

In order to get all the old fluid out you start with the master cylinder as well as ensuring that you are not pumping air into the lines.

I bleed mine following this order: master cylinder, RR, RL, FR, FL, clutch, master cylinder

Make sure not to get any brake fluid on the paint it eats it.

Using a bleeder bag cuts down on accidental sprays to the paint when bleeding.

Brake fluid is caustic to the skin where gloves to ensure you do not come in contact with it.

Brake fluid absorbs water, this water boils faster than brake fluid, it also causes corrosion inside the brake system.

Just to clarify you do not have to use OEM Honda brake fluid on vehicles.

 

I recommend the ATE SL.6 it is formulated for vehicles with ABS and traction control systems. Thinner so the fluid moves into tight areas faster than the thicker fluid.

Works better than the ATE Super Blue in the clutch.