Looking for a DIY for brake bleed/brake fluid swap
#27
Master Cyl is the solution
I bled all four corners again and it didn't make a difference. Then I bled the master again and everything is perfect.
#34
Not sure if anyone mentioned...as I am too lazy to go thru it all...but...
1) Speedbleeders (Including the Russell) have been known to fail during track use...I would advise you to purchase the vac and not risk the issue...
2) Its easier to alternate between ATE Blue and ATE Gold...it's the same stuff and you can tell when you have completely bled the system.
1) Speedbleeders (Including the Russell) have been known to fail during track use...I would advise you to purchase the vac and not risk the issue...
2) Its easier to alternate between ATE Blue and ATE Gold...it's the same stuff and you can tell when you have completely bled the system.
#37
#39
No...apparently the failures had to do with the check ball allowing fluid to pass regardless of how tight you had em...
#40
Check Ball
That doesn't seem right unless there is a manufacturing defect and they did't seat properly to form a good seal. There should be no fluid pressure at the check ball if they are tightened properly. Any pressure there would definityly leak. They seal the fluid before getting into the check ball chamber.
#41
That doesn't seem right unless there is a manufacturing defect and they did't seat properly to form a good seal. There should be no fluid pressure at the check ball if they are tightened properly. Any pressure there would definityly leak. They seal the fluid before getting into the check ball chamber.
#42
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This could happen if a person used the bleeders a lot and did not re-apply the sealant around the bleeder.
If the sealant leaks air then it could leak fluid.
What temperature does the sealant break down? If they are getting hot enough to break down the sealant that could be the cause.
If the sealant leaks air then it could leak fluid.
What temperature does the sealant break down? If they are getting hot enough to break down the sealant that could be the cause.
#43
shovin' into overdrive...
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Bump!
Yesterday was the first time i changed my brake fluid myself. I did it at a friend's house and I used the valvoline dot 3/4 brake fluid. I began by bleeding the RR, LR, RF and LF. It was getting too late fumble with the clutch bleeder. I also didnt bleed the brake master cylinder and on the drive home, i did notice the brakes come on a little further down the pedal. Stopping power is good.
Few questions:
What is the purpose of bleeding the brake master cylinder first and then last?
Is the OEM mazda brake fluid not synthetic therefore not able to be mixed with the valvoline synthetic?
Few questions:
What is the purpose of bleeding the brake master cylinder first and then last?
Is the OEM mazda brake fluid not synthetic therefore not able to be mixed with the valvoline synthetic?
#44
#45
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iTrader: (2)
This could happen if a person used the bleeders a lot and did not re-apply the sealant around the bleeder.
If the sealant leaks air then it could leak fluid.
What temperature does the sealant break down? If they are getting hot enough to break down the sealant that could be the cause.
If the sealant leaks air then it could leak fluid.
What temperature does the sealant break down? If they are getting hot enough to break down the sealant that could be the cause.
I bleed mine following this order: master cylinder, RR, RL, FR, FL, clutch, master cylinder
Make sure not to get any brake fluid on the paint it eats it.
Using a bleeder bag cuts down on accidental sprays to the paint when bleeding.
Brake fluid is caustic to the skin where gloves to ensure you do not come in contact with it.
Brake fluid absorbs water, this water boils faster than brake fluid, it also causes corrosion inside the brake system.
Just to clarify you do not have to use OEM Honda brake fluid on vehicles.
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yankeepicker
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09-11-2015 05:42 PM