Lost the Air Pump
#52
Hey, I'm catless, so anyone know a way to just put a resistor or something in place to fool the system? the pump motor in mine is fried, even after I rebuilt it she would draw too much power when it would start and pop the fuse.
#53
I haven't had a cat or pump in quite a while. Are you getting a Cel? If not why worry. Both are not required to run well.
Last edited by Phil's 8; 01-28-2010 at 04:33 PM.
#54
Take the motor apart:
Remove the end plate that holds the bearing closest to the pump. (The end plate is pressed secure with four tabs, and it will take some time to straighten the tabs.)
Pop out bearing and replace with new one. (odds are this is the bearing that is ruined.)
#56
Hmm, don't remember them being welded, just pressed on tight. To get under the tabs try using a sharp chisel or sharp screwdriver.
#58
sorry to revive the thread,
im hearing a loud hissing squealing noise at startup. The hissing noise goes away after awhile but there is a very high pitch squealing noise when I drive. Its embarrassing because people see me drive with this noise. Im pretty sure its the air pump so im gonna let it die. I don't have a cat so I don't really care but I want the noise to go away.
I don't have the tools and knowledge to remove it myself or else I would. What else should I do? Maybe the squealing noise can be removed with grease or WD40?? Its very high pitched I can hear it in the cabin with some music on. I don't wanna go to the stealership either
im hearing a loud hissing squealing noise at startup. The hissing noise goes away after awhile but there is a very high pitch squealing noise when I drive. Its embarrassing because people see me drive with this noise. Im pretty sure its the air pump so im gonna let it die. I don't have a cat so I don't really care but I want the noise to go away.
I don't have the tools and knowledge to remove it myself or else I would. What else should I do? Maybe the squealing noise can be removed with grease or WD40?? Its very high pitched I can hear it in the cabin with some music on. I don't wanna go to the stealership either
#59
I'm Getting the P0410 code as well. the pump is dead. I mean good and dead and i need to pass emissions to get the thing registered. if i reset my ECU then go get an emissions test, will the ECU be just fine or will it say "not ready to test"? those pumps are running at about 550 new and used is hard to come by but i think the Audi A6 is using the same pump.
#62
I'm in Australia so don't know how emissions test work, but couldn't you
1) Run the car until warm - (Air pump will not run above certain temperature)
2) While the car is still running clear the CEL and any pending codes with an OBD scanner.
3) Drive to Emissions test (always making sure car is hot)
4) When the car is started hot there shouldn't be any CEL as the air pump is not activated when car is warm.
The only thing that might not work is if the emissions test incorporates specific testing of the air pump to start ie they send a signal to start the air pump regardless of car temp...in this case you are screwed.
1) Run the car until warm - (Air pump will not run above certain temperature)
2) While the car is still running clear the CEL and any pending codes with an OBD scanner.
3) Drive to Emissions test (always making sure car is hot)
4) When the car is started hot there shouldn't be any CEL as the air pump is not activated when car is warm.
The only thing that might not work is if the emissions test incorporates specific testing of the air pump to start ie they send a signal to start the air pump regardless of car temp...in this case you are screwed.
#63
After you reset the ECU. You must complete at least three drive cycles. for the ECU to be "READY". Unfortunately this calls for getting the car hot and allowing it to cool off completely.
Unfortunately that will reset your P0410 code. when the air pump does not function when the car is started cold. So your in a position that you need an airpump or an AccessPort to clear the code.
Unfortunately that will reset your P0410 code. when the air pump does not function when the car is started cold. So your in a position that you need an airpump or an AccessPort to clear the code.
#66
I've seen posts here saying the air pump is/ and isn't covered under emissions warranty. Anyone know a definitive answer? I just called the dealer and they said no, but I don't trust much of anything they say. Mine is starting to sound like something out of Star Wars now.
2008 40th anniversary edition
50,500/mi
2008 40th anniversary edition
50,500/mi
#67
The federally mandated emissions warranty has several different parts to it. Only the major components like the cat and ECU are covered for the 8yr 80k. The other parts are covered by much lower limits, limits that are usually within the factory warranty periods anyway.
Go to epa.gov to read the details.
Go to epa.gov to read the details.
#68
The federally mandated emissions warranty has several different parts to it. Only the major components like the cat and ECU are covered for the 8yr 80k. The other parts are covered by much lower limits, limits that are usually within the factory warranty periods anyway.
Go to epa.gov to read the details.
Go to epa.gov to read the details.
Thanks, RIWWP. I guess I'm out of luck with a warranty replacement. I'm not getting any CEL from it, just that annoying whine at start up. Looks like I'll be DIY bearing replacement soon just for peace of mind.
#69
didn't get to a DIY fix yet and this morning there was no squeel from the air pump. There was a CEL light instead. I'm getting 2 codes, P0410 and P0411, both secondary air intake. I'm assuming the pump officially died. Is this bad? Is the pump salvageable? Should I be concerned about those codes? I honestly have no idea.
#70
But you won't be able to fake the Secondary Air readiness test failing.
Some states will pass you if only one of the readiness tests fail which is likely why a lot of folks are getting by with just suppressing the CEL.
But lets say you have an EVAP problem, or there's something preventing the cat / o2 test from passing then you're screwed.
Having a functional pump handy and plugging it for a week before the test will do the trick. Be sure to make it look like its installed in some kind of permanent manner... especially if you're not on good (read friendly) terms with the shop doing the test. If the shop doesn't trust you it'll likely be game over.
#72
not sure if this was intended for anyone specific, but I'd be interested. PM me with a price if you still want to sell it.
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