Hey guys, so i water decarbed my 8. Placebo or not. Idle got smoother. Acceleration is smoother but the downside is. I am getting poor mileage now. My tank fill after decarb gave me 180km on a full tank. Previously i could do 300 within city.
Any ideas what could be causing it ?
Btw i mixed some 2t oil in water while doing it. The system running lean Cel came on. I cleared it and never came back.
Is it possible i recalibrated any sensor and now my cars running rich ?

 

The lean CEL is from misfires while running the water.

Beyond that I'd check that the hose/plugs are back in the original location with no vacuum leaks.

It is possible that the water caused some carbon deposits to shift and wedge a seal, but I'd check the easy stuff first before getting a compression check.

 

2 stroke and water? Where do you people come up with this ****?

 

FWIW my mileage dipped too recently. It's winter.. lots of warm up time, lots of idling. Though 180 sounds extreme, definitely check your ignition and catalytic converter as suggested.

 

How do check the exhaust for clog ?

 

People are genius :D
Read it on a thread to either premix heavily before decarb or to add some oil in water so as to maintain lubrication.

 

You realize that the oil will sit on top of the water and no oil will enter the engine until after the water has all been used?

 

Please show me where you read that.

 

If you keep shaking the bottle every now and then. That wont happen. It takes time for oil to settle on top.

 

Toooo many posts on that thread !! By the time i find it, my 8 will probably have a grand child

 

Repeat the experiment with a clear plastic water bottle, see if you want to rethink your position on this. Keep in mind that you need oil to be available at the pickup point, not just somewhere in the bottle.

 

No, I bet it's because that post doesn't exist. If it did, there would have been a number of posts following it ripping it apart. Unless it went unnoticed but I highly doubt that.

 

I spent 5 seconds with Google and found it. That doesn't make it any less silly. If you want to go through with this pointless exercise, just add 1oz per gallon of premix to your gas and go for a long drive.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...newbee-186885/

Anyway...

Did you disconnect your cat before doing this? If not, check it for clogging.

Check your plugs for fouling.

Reset the VRAM and NVRAM.

Beyond that, I have nothing.

 

Well thats an awkwardly blunt way of saying i made it up but steve has used his magic fingers to search the thread for you.



@steve
No buddy I did not disconnect cat, since in the thread water decarb, someone has posted that you need to dc it while doing it with seafoam but not with water.

Question is, how do i really check if cat is clogged. Do i need to take it off ? (i am already dreading that xD)

Thanks for the quick help guys. Really appreciate it.

 

Yes, Steve found the thread about seafoam (not water) but apparently you didn't read it or do your homework. Oil and water don't mix and seafoaming and water decarbing are a waste of time.

To check the cat you need to do a cat efficiency test (search youtube).

 

Clearly more than one people mentioned doing it like that. Any how, you have hated decarbing since the start of every thread of such nature. Your opinion gets biased.

water decarbing does as much good to the car as a sohn adapter does. The difference is with decarb a guy has done rotoroscopy to see before and after. He has also mentioned the compressions.
He has made a compilation of the results. Cant deny that.

 

I did use a clear bottle, the mixture was milky yellow for the entire time. it takes time for the oil to rearrange on top as per its lighter density.
Yes it will not be a homogenized mixture but it will somewhat be like a colloidal solution.

 

Says the guys who's car doesn't run right after "decarbing". It's not an opinion, it's fact. Any minuscule amount of carbon removed is right back where it was after a couple of drive cycles. You know why? Because carbon build up is mostly from gasoline, not the small amount of oil that is injected.

Decarbing has no effect on improving the engines function at all.

And again, you are not understanding how things work. The SOHN adapter only allows clean 2 stroke to be injected to help lubricate and more importantly, cool the side seals. The only advantage is that good 2 stroke is designed to burn ash free so in theory it should be better than used engine oil.

That said, there is no real scientific evidence to prove the addition of the SOHN or premixing does anything to extend the life of a Renesis. We have seen engines that were premixed and ran the SOHN die prematurely. There are many variables.

As for carbon prevention and the SOHN, it does prevent carbon build up where the oil is injected. But as you can see from my own engine after only 27k, carbon build up elsewhere is still and issue.

 

You must be talking about RIWWP. IIRC, if you read the entire thread, you will see that any benefit disappeared very quickly.

The only way decarbing can be beneficial, is if you have a sticking seal and are lucky enough for steam to penetrate that area and clean out the carbon enough to release the seal. Usually, by the time you notice the symptoms of the sticking seal, other damage has been done. At best, it is a long shot.

Prior to this thread, I would have said, "Can't hurt, so why not?" Maybe it can hurt...

.

 

well we have had countless threads of decarb or not to decarb. Lets not turn it into one of them.
I did decarb, my idle dropped from 1500 to 1100. Either something worked or my supplier is giving some good stuff that i cant read rpm anymore.

 

A noob injecting anything into their engine is always a bad idea.

 

Your idle has nothing to do with the engine's compression or carbon.... a warm idle of 1500 or 1100 is way too high either way.

This thread being a case in point.

So before the thread went on a tangent, suggestions were made to inspect your cat. Yes you need to remove it. Maybe easier to bring it to a local shop with air tools.

Also, fun fact: water damages oxygen sensors. So. Your primary wideband O2 might not be reporting correct AFR. If you have a way to connect to the OBD2 plug and read sensor information, check what AFRs its reporting at idle and what the fuel trims (STFT, LTFT) are. You may want to start with this, in fact.

It's certainly possible that fuel trims were thrown off by the lean condition CEL. Press the brake pedal 20 times with the key in the on position but the car not running, this will clear some of the computer's memory. For safe measure, disconnect and reconnect the battery at the same time, so it has to relearn everything. Then let it warm up without driving, then go for a drive. It may stall on occasion. It shouldn't, but it may. Report back with results.
Don't disconnect the battery before reading the OBD2 info.

You could also pull the spark plugs and examine them visually. If you're burning oil, coolant or running rich, it will be evident from the deposits on the spark plugs. Google for how to read the different types of deposits.

 

Drive the car so the car relearns the fuel trims. everything is fine. I run water injection on my turbo rx7, it does not ruin the O2 sensor, I have a wideband and been running water injection for years with methanol. I am willing to bet the water treatment just confused the computer or something and needs to relearn or be reset.

 

20K miles, a good tune, water meth injection. no carbon, wipes clean with 2 cycle oil.

One wipes clean with a rag, other is not wiped. 450WHP

 

There's no way you're going to get me to believe that. It might damage the connector externally, but not the sensor.