I think I can move the thermostat away without removing the tube.

Hmm, its been a long while since I last removed the SSV so ...

And to remove the water pump pulley, I need air tools hmm ...

Lets see what I can do tomorrow.

 

Water pump pulley just needs a 10mm socket and a tap...alternator pulley needs an impact to do easily...but it's easier to just remove the alternator

If you loosen the bolts on the alternator bracket you can just get the thermostat housing off if you wiggle it

 

I know, but its 1000 times easier if I have air tools u know :P

I have at my home but, I dont want to turn my compressor on at 8-9 pm you know ... my neighbors going to rape me

will see what happens ...

 

The three connectors for the solenoid valves on the back of the intake manifold are not a sealed type of connector. So they are exposed to the elements (water, steam, dirt).

I had this same error code, so I wiggled them and the problem would go away for a while.
One weekend I decided to fix this problem, by cleaning these connectors.
To do this you will need to remove the upper intake manifold to be able to work with them. First scrape the sides of all six connections (on the solenoids) just enough to remove the mineral deposits and then clean every thing out. Then carefully bend all 12 contact points on the harness connectors together to improve contact force.
Finally silicone grease everything up.

Don’t try to remove the solenoids, the tabs most likely will break off.

BTW: P0661 SSV solenoid valve control circuit low ON 2 CCM is an electronic error code not a mechanical, so the valve is not stuck.

 

^ correct. If you had the P2070. like I have had several times, just use a cocktail of cleaners first. My SSV has cleaned itself up now, due to BG44K, FP+, LC20, Seafoam, Zoom-Zoom, etc...

 

i'm actually in philly, but thanks for the offer. i'm having an acquaintance working it. we figured that it wasn't the SSV actuator since when tried moving it with a vacuum pump as Jon316G demonstrated in one of his videos, and the flaps worked smoothly and without resistance.

he concluded that the problem either is carbon buildup or a bad SSV sensor.
what we're going to do is first run 103 octane gas and give it a good old Italian Tuneup, then turn off the light. (i was running 87/89 gas in it for about two years because one of the mazda tech's from the dealer i bought it from said that it didn't make a difference to run regular with automatics... stupid me, but i took his word for it.) he said this might solve the p0661 problem

If the check engine light comes on again he said that he's gonna take off the upper manifold, clean it, and replace the SSV sensor with a new one. he said that replacing the $60 SSV sensor and a few gaskets is better then running all the tests to make sure the SSV sensor is bad.

Then if this doesn't work, then its probably a problem with the intake manifold.

Dose this sound like a good procedure? i'm not really technically oriented, i'm learning as i go, so any feedback is greatly appreciated

 

I think that instead of buying random components in hopes that you get lucky, you should actually troubleshoot it down to the component that is failing.

Now you mentioned replacing a sensor.
Are you referring to the SSV positioning sensor or the solenoid?
And replacing an SSV gasket/seal will require removing the whole valve and I really don't think that is your problem.
Running 103 octane isn't going to do anything for your issue.

Take the advise that I and others have suggested.
I mentioned swapping the wire harnesses and vacuum lines between the SSV and AIR solenoid, RenKat mentioned cleaning the connectors for the solenoid (which is a good idea), you've already verified that the valve itself isn't sticking so you're good there.

 

Just reseat the connector, this will fix it maybe for a week.
After reseating drive the car over 60, stop turn it off then start it again and the check engine light will go out.

If the problem goes away then do the post above.
If that does not do it then replace the solenoid valve.

P0661 is bitching about the Solenoid.

 

thanks guys, i'm gonna have my guy try that later this week. will this most likely solve the problem? is there anything else he should check/clean while the upper intake manifold is off?

 

Hi all,

Well it's been a while since I've had to ask for help from a forum... unfortunately the same problem seems to be back.

I had the guy working on the car do the switch that Jon316G suggested. After that, the check engine light disappeared so I decided to forget about it. Now, however, I've gotten another check engine light and found a P2070 code. After doing some research it seems to be the same general problem. The check engine light did go off after letting the car sit for the night, but I'm trying to figure out what I should do if/when it comes back on.

It would be great if someone could help me diagnose what's going on here.

Just as a summary: I initially had a P0661 code a year ago. I switched wire harnesses and vacuum lines between the SSV and AIR solenoid. The code disappeared. I just found a P2070 code now. The car is an '04 automatic with 77,600 miles on it.

Thank you

 

Wow... its been awhile...
We've seen more P2070 problems since your last post, which prompted me to create this thread:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-remove-ssv-beta-teaser-video-184663/

 

Looks great Jon... you're a savior