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Originally Posted by ASH8
(Post 3739973)
FD RX-7 Oil Pumps are virtually identical in all areas except the Oil Pump Rotor set and the separation middle plate between the rotors.
FD Rotors are 5mm wider than FC or FE (RX-8) Rotors, middle plate is thinner. Oil Pump Sprocket is identical and so is the Drive Chain. So yes, an FD Oil Pump should fit without installation issues. How to do it, you need to remove the front Alloy Timing Cover to expose the Oil Pump assembly, pretty easy if engine is out, a lot, lot more work if engine is still mounted in engine bay. FD RX-7's were made in 4 Series while sold in the Australian market, From Jan 1992, August 1993, July 1994, Jan 1996, I think there was one more minor update for JDM only in 1998-9 until it ceased in Japan market only in 2002...then the Series 1 RX-8 was made from April 2003, and Series 2 in April 2008...these are all production Start dates. |
Originally Posted by SARRAS
(Post 3739955)
So how hard / possible is it to fit an FD Pump? BTW what manufacture years is FD?
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good parts men are invaluable!
OD |
Originally Posted by ASH8
(Post 3739968)
Just to set the record straight...Mazda's like most Oil Pumps have No Seals Internally, None.
Dampers or Struts or Shock-absorbers have a Seal at the top of casing that shock chromed piston moves inside through a rubber (usually) round Seal. |
THERE ARE NO SEALS IN THESE OIL PUMPs:shocking:... YOU IDIOT:shocking:....Bloody Poms...;)
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So how is the seal made? How is it that the pump moves fluid if there is no seal?
Half of the answer is that there is no dedicated seal part number - there is nothing in the pump assembly you can point to and say "The function of that part is exclusively to form a seal." The other half of the answer is that the sealing function is engineered into the parts that are there. That's what Phillip is trying to say. |
Originally Posted by GeorgeH
(Post 3740615)
So how is the seal made? How is it that the pump moves fluid if there is no seal?
Half of the answer is that there is no dedicated seal part number - there is nothing in the pump assembly you can point to and say "The function of that part is exclusively to form a seal." The other half of the answer is that the sealing function is engineered into the parts that are there. That's what Phillip is trying to say. Bloody Ozzies.... Regardless, the initial spike on that graph is from the bleed past the seals, as we've discussed before. |
Originally Posted by PhillipM
(Post 3740658)
^What he said. If it didn't seal, it wouldn't work ;)
Bloody Ozzies.... Regardless, the initial spike on that graph is from the bleed past the seals, as we've discussed before. YOU REFERERED TO SEALS.. I went through this on the other thread...it's from the seepage past the seals. GEEZ...:yelrotflm |
Originally Posted by GeorgeH
(Post 3740615)
So how is the seal made? How is it that the pump moves fluid if there is no seal?
Half of the answer is that there is no dedicated seal part number - there is nothing in the pump assembly you can point to and say "The function of that part is exclusively to form a seal." The other half of the answer is that the sealing function is engineered into the parts that are there. That's what Phillip is trying to say. Thanks for that...I never knew that, I have never opened a Mazda Rotary Oil Pump or Sold ANY Rotor sets..in 20 years...have you BTW? |
Always happy to help.
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Originally Posted by ASH8
(Post 3740725)
I am Talking a PHYSICAL Seal, which there is not..OK..YES it is Metal to Metal ..
GEEZ...:yelrotflm |
Originally Posted by GeorgeH
(Post 3740738)
Always happy to help.
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Originally Posted by PhillipM
(Post 3740748)
Of course there's a physical seal, it's the edge of the rotor lobe, I'm pretty sure it's not imaginary or theoretical, so it must be physical....
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...and people wonder why engineering & manufacturing sometimes find it hard to communicate...:lol:
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Originally Posted by GeorgeH
(Post 3740813)
...and people wonder why engineering & manufacturing sometimes find it hard to communicate...:lol:
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Originally Posted by GeorgeH
(Post 3740813)
...and people wonder why engineering & manufacturing sometimes find it hard to communicate...:lol:
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Originally Posted by Galen Darkmoon
(Post 3723891)
I'll post up when I get the RB mod and see what is entailed.
I recently purchased your oil pressure mod for my 2007 RX8. I have seen that another mod like this is on the market. Upon mentioning that I chose RB's over it members on the forum warned me to shim the front relief which does come with the other mod. On opening the package I see the RB oil mod comes with no such shims or special instructions, so I am writing you for an explanation and find out how to install and any other changes I should make. From RB We checked to determine that you purchased our Part # 11811, 90~95 psi regulator, intended for use on the RX8. No shim washers are necessary on that model since it already was designed for 81 psi. On earlier rotaries, which were set to 71 psi, we added 2 washers to the front pressure regulator to avoid early relief. This regulator replaces the stock regulator which is located inside the pan, screwed into the rear housing. You should have a 26mm box wrench to remove and install it. Jim Mederer Best regards, |
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Low oil temp is what I'm seeing now that ambient is around 8 or 9C (46 to 48F)
Oil temp at 100km/h in 6th took over 20 min to hit 70C (158F) WT was 84C (183F) Bumping to 120km/h for 20 min oil temp held around 75C (167F) Thrashing it a bit at high RPM for 5 min yielded 85C (185F) oil temp... Oil temp is being measured at the oil filter as usual. Thoughts? Pressure is good. Running 5W30 Castrol GTX 21PSI at idle (72C OT) 60PSI @ 3K RPM (72C OT) |
Originally Posted by DarkBrew
(Post 3750141)
Low oil temp is what I'm seeing now that ambient is around 8 or 9C (46 to 48F)
Oil temp at 100km/h in 6th took over 20 min to hit 70C (158F) WT was 84C (183F) Bumping to 120km/h for 20 min oil temp held around 75C (167F) Thrashing it a bit at high RPM for 5 min yielded 85C (185F) oil temp... Oil temp is being measured at the oil filter as usual. Thoughts? Stock coolers? If so, sounds about right. The oil takes forever to heat up. |
Yes. Stock coolers and rad
I'm glad it's going away for the winter... And no wonder we get all the froth on the dipstick: The damned thing never warms up in the cold! |
Originally Posted by DarkBrew
(Post 3750154)
Yes. Stock coolers and rad
I'm glad it's going away for the winter... And no wonder we get all the froth on the dipstick: The damned thing never warms up in the cold! |
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 3750169)
Yep, the stock coolers always allow oil to flow through the coolers instead of routing cold oil back to the motor until it reaches operating temp. I have a 180F oil thermostat on my single cooler setup.
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I was under the impression that the oil coolers have a thermostat of some kind....
So an internal bypass means that we flow oil to the coolers but don't flow through the cooling fins? |
/\...NOT AGAIN!..lol...
Put your hand on the Oil Cooler when you start up a cold engine...mine start to get luke warm in about 40-50 seconds or so.... IMO it restricts oil flow through coolers a little. |
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