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you don't need speed bleeders, just run the bleed hose up several inches higher than the bleed nipple and then into the bottom of the catch container, open the bleeder slightly, then push & release the pedal slowly, the column of brake fluid in the rise above the nipple keeps air from coming back in, been doing it that way all my life
which also has nothing to do with this thread |
bleeder bottle --have also used them and its real easy--still use it for the clutch and master cylinder. We are showing our age team--lol
OD |
Originally Posted by SilverEIGHT
(Post 3401221)
As Denny said, I have pics and vids to present. Very good session and good observations. I will try to get some of this up by this evening.
Hi, I have too purchased the mazmart oil pressure kit. I am not stucked at how to insert the washer? In your picture, it has not stated how you pull out the pin and put back. Do I need to drill and well back etc? Appreciate if someone can advice on how to insert the washer into the front reg. Thanks. |
If I have missed any thread that had stated this, kindly refer.
I am not a regular in the forum. Probably should have checked all these before making purchase. :-( |
Originally Posted by drift_drift
(Post 3458730)
Hi, I have too purchased the mazmart oil pressure kit. I am not stucked at how to insert the washer? In your picture, it has not stated how you pull out the pin and put back.
Do I need to drill and well back etc? Appreciate if someone can advice on how to insert the washer into the front reg. Thanks. http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/shimoil.htm But isn't the Mazmart kit suppose to be an upgraded bypass kit which has already has this washer built in? The link i posted is to mod the stock regulator. If we need to do the same for Mazmart kit, why don't just mod the stock kit? |
3 Attachment(s)
There are to units you are working with here. The larger one has already been done. Notice the "RE" (Rick Engman's initials) which means he has taken it apart already.
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1267864523 This shows the old one in place toward the front of the engine, the one to the rear gets the loose washers. https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1267864593 The loose washers are for the second one. After unscrewing it, you just drop the washers into it and screw it back together. https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1267864290 Hope that helps. |
Originally Posted by SilverEIGHT
(Post 3458839)
There are to units you are working with here. The larger one has already been done. Notice the "RE" (Rick Engman's initials) which means he has taken it apart already.
"This shows the old one in place toward the front of the engine, the one to the rear gets the loose washers." Do you mean there are two regulators? one bigger(place towards front of engine) and the other smaller(placed behind). The washers are meant for the smaller one and all I need to do is to unscrew and put in the washer. No need for any drill nor complicated things. Thanks again... |
Yes
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wow, alright....... I was still worried that its gonna be complicated. I will post the results after getting it fixed up.
Cheers.... |
Just make sure you clean of the rim of the pan really good, clean out all of the little waste particles and seal it up properly. I used brake cleaner clean out my pan. Don't trust just picking out the pieces, you really need to clean it out well.
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Will brake cleaner leave any residue?
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No, it wont for this kind of job. Really need to take the baffles out to really clean it.
Man --dont worry--its an easy job. If you know how to change coils and plugs, intake etc --you can do this. I need to clarify someSilver pointed out (aint those great pics!) the RE regular goes in the REAR of the engine--closest to the firewall/tran, and the one that needs the washers is in the FRONT of the engine (closest to the radiator). The rear one is easy to see---its a little tight but a pull handle wrench will get it out and then the new one just screws back in. The front one is like a big screw plug. Just unscrew it and the spring will drop right out ( the piston may not due to the oil film holding it)--so if it doesnt just put the washers on the end of the spring, reinstall it and screw the plug back in. Thats it. Then just prepare the oil pan---clean it etc---put your silicone gasket stuff on and put it back. DOnt tighen the oil pan bolts by very much -- only about 15 lbs of tq-- then let it dry in accordance to what type of silicone stuff you used---fill it up with oil and go driving. One of the easiest mods I have ever done. OD |
What specific RTV did you use OD? Damn this rain.
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what I use is "The Right Stuff"---think thats the name---comes in an aerosol can---its black and requires verry little drying time. Hasnt failed me yet. It cost a little more but to me the ease of use etc is worth it. I get mine at advance auto--made by permatex--i think?
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 3461426)
What specific RTV did you use OD? Damn this rain.
there is nothing special ... you can pay an extra buck or 2 for those "high temp" ones ... works the same for me. |
I have a whole tube of High Temp, red RTV. I guess that will do. Planned on knocking this out yesterday but it started raining and then I distracted getting my ass kicked by Zumnrx8 on COD, haha.
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Originally Posted by olddragger
(Post 3400822)
A few of our group got together yesterday for a "tuner" day. We installed 2 of the modified oil bypass kits on members cars and had some surprising findings. It was very interesting.
Ok some of the findings that we saw are: 1- Guess how much oil is left in the pan after it has been drained until it stops dripping?. The car is up level on jack stands , dealerships etc would also have it level if they change your oil. Would you believe 1LITER of oil oil is left behind in the pan. Thats a lot of oil! This is very true--we observed and recorded this in 2 members cars! 1 frigging liter of old oil remains in the OIL PAN and more is in the coolers and lines. Thats a lot of oil oil that doesnt get changed out The oil remains because of the oil pan baffles present and the plug hole is a little too far up on the side. To Paul and I this makes for a strong cause to use an evacuator when you change the oil as you should be able to get more out. Course jacking up different sides of the car should help also but thats a pida to do. I never realized there was this much left in the pan after draining.. 2- The 09 oil filter will not fit on the pre 09 IF you have a Racing Beat oil adaptor installed---this makes it too tall to clear the firewall----damn! (Addentum--seems with some slight mods the 09 will fit. More to follow) 3-- oil pressures with the bypass kit can vary from engine to engine. The start up pressures on an engine that has had an e shaft pellet modification will be higher than the engine that has the oem e pellet system in place. However after the oil warms and the pellet is closed the pressures will be very similar. The e pellet difference on start up oil pressure was interesting to see. With the cold e pellet the oil pressure was much lower--almost like stock. As soon as the oil started warming up (over 140F) you could see the oil pressure rising! Please also remember that different viscosity and temps cause different pressure readings. One members oil at 180F and a 10W/40 dino oil was 100psi at almost 4Krpms. We learned some good things to know. Pictures to follow via SilverEight (hes the Man!) and more info to come. So far very successful! olddragger 1) Has the Series ll oil pan been modified to decrease retained oil when it is drained? 2) Is the Series ll oil pan a direct bolt on to the Series l engine? PS I am aware that the Series ll oil pan has a larger capacity. Thanks |
I have installed the mazmart oil press and the result seems overwhelming.....
I have gotten about 127psi from 6000rpm onwards, which raise my concern of too high press..... Can someone advice?? I am hitting 100psi at about 3500rpm and it just goes to 120 at 4500rpm. I am also using very thin oil of 5w30... some advice please...... |
does reducing from 3 washer to 2 washer helps?
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Originally Posted by drift_drift
(Post 3468743)
I have installed the mazmart oil press and the result seems overwhelming.....
I have gotten about 127psi from 6000rpm onwards, which raise my concern of too high press..... Can someone advice?? I am hitting 100psi at about 3500rpm and it just goes to 120 at 4500rpm. I am also using very thin oil of 5w30... some advice please...... |
^ For sure...pressure is very dependent on oil temperature.....The only max oil pressure measurement that is important is when the car is at operating temperature.
One of the important reasons for an oil bypass is that the cold start up pressure can be very high... |
Is that pressure with a "wallmart" pressure gauge or a quality gauge,maybe try another gauge,that will gauge whether or not the first gauge is gauging correctly. :)
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The oil temp is ard 70-80deg C. I am using a defi guage......
It is infact quite ok at cold start..... but once warm up, pressure shoot up very fast as rpm goes up..... |
before installing the mazmart oil press bypass, I am hitting max of 88psi at ard 8000rpm. Once installed, I went for a test straight and it went up to 127psi at 6000rpm and stays there pretty constant.....
What is the negative of having such pressure?? most importantly, how may I bring it down to ard 100-110psi? |
Originally Posted by drift_drift
(Post 3469412)
before installing the mazmart oil press bypass, I am hitting max of 88psi at ard 8000rpm. Once installed, I went for a test straight and it went up to 127psi at 6000rpm and stays there pretty constant.....
What is the negative of having such pressure?? most importantly, how may I bring it down to ard 100-110psi? |
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