i have a super duper problem...my car was driving normally, then started sputtering, then stalled...now it wont start.. i am under the engine bay trying to see whats wrong and i think i may have found the problem. i see a thin hose with a green and white valve attached to it and it is loose.

it is sucking in, so i assume its a vacuum hose. i cannot find where it goes, and i cant get the car to start to atleast make it to a gas station. im like on the side of the highway after pushing the car 100 yards so i can atleast be under a hwy light. im on my blackberry (which is also about to die, what a ******* night)...please help me find where this hose goes, it is coming out of the black intake manifold and is on the driver side of the car, it has a bend in it like its supposed to go forward but i cant find any thing to attach it to. please help, its almost 11:00 now.

 

Probably the VFAD check valve and line. It attaches to the Intake Manifold up under...near the oil dipstick.

This shouldn't cause your stalling problem though

 

well my friend has helped me push it to the gas station where it shall stay for the night... i cant figure out how to get it running, i dont know where this hose goes. anyone have a picture of where and how this hose connects, a real pic of the engine bay?

i think im going to take out my canzoomer to see if that does anything, its been on for a while with no problems, but thats the last thing i did to the car

 

green and white valve ? it sound like the hose goes to VFAD to the intake manifold. ahh dannobre got it.

sucking in ? Well then it should be connected to the intake box somewhere.

but it shouldnt cause stalling problem. Is your car stock and under warranty ? if yes then tow it to Mazda Dealership.

 

By the oil dip stick under the intake there is a nipple it fits on to. That would cause the car to stall

 

hmm, are you talking about that nipple that connects to VFAD ?

if it is then I dont even have it. I pull it out. my car didnt stall

 

If there is a vaccum leak after the MAF you will have a hard time getting it to start and run. The engine will pull more air than the computer will see. Good luck.

 

well my friend and i went early this morning and got the car hitched up on the trailer and got it home. i didnt check anything out since i have to go to work.

(if a mod would like to alter the title, im cool with it, i originally titled it to get immediate response, but its less urgent now.)

i can now give you more detail on whats happening...i was drving, then started feeling a stuttering (like the car was dying on me) then it cut off. i pulled over, tried to crank crank crank and would not start at all...

i looked under the hood, checked battery, pulled out the MAF sensor to see if it was okay. ....crank crank crank and no start.

disconnected bat for 5 mins and did the push brake thing to reset ecu....crank crank crank crank crank crank and i get a little life out of the engine...i give it gas to try to livin it up and its running, but rough as hell...i drove about 1 mile under the rough drive to atleast get to the next exit but it cut off again. i noticed the CEL was blinking...its always on because of my midpipe (so i never really know if something else is goin on aswell)...so its blinking while driving under the rough engine condition.

i didnt want to try to crank again so i pushed it to the next street light to get under the hood again, this time i notice the loose tube i looked to find where it goes but cant find it...i start the car (CEL starts blinking) and i check the hose, and it is sucking air. when i cap it off the idle smooths out a tiny bit.

this hose is coming from an area under the intake manifold right behing the throttle body. its skinny and black with a green and white valve on it...further to the back by the firewall i notice another hose with a similar valve on it but couldnt see where it leads to.

car has aftermarket warranty (i hope i dont have to do cause i have to pay a 25% deductable)

car has mods
b-pipe 500o miles on car
pulleys 7000 miles on car w/ new belts
flywheel clutch 1500 miles on car
canzoomer 200 miles...hasnt given any problems, but it will be removed to see if that has lead to the problem
new battery...5000 miles maybe
oil change like 2000 miles ago

other things like sway bars and brakes and such, but doubt that can contribute to this...

things i kno

vacuum leaks can cause problems, i had a hose rip on my old car and it gave simlar problems im experiencing now.
i kno that a blinking cel can mean misfire...but with that loose hose i dont know if its something else pulling up

it was kinda cold last night...could that have any affect (doubt it, it was 52 degrees S.FL. lol)

80mph driving...i was in 6th around 4-5k rpms for about 25 mins...

i am now going to try to do some searching, i really need to see some pics, im very visual so, just reading on specific locations inst gonna help.

PLEEEEEEEEEEEEZ help in anyway you can, im driving my dads old caravan which has a 1month expired tag, and is not even registered anymore (deceased)...so i really dont want to have to drive it past today.

 

thanks for the title change

ive read the symptoms of flooding, i dont think that is what i have, i could be wrong tho...if it was flooded, while the car is running, shouldnt i be able to rev it a lil to clear it all out?

any other ideas of what is wong, im hoping someone can post up a pic of where this tube goes, im looking for the nub to attach it to as one has mentioned but i cant find it.

 

ok well i did some searching and i have the tubes routed properly, i saw where i made the hose went to, something else was actually in its spot and i had to change them around...which means this tube has been disconnected for quite some time...last time i disconnected anything was about 5-6 weeks ago when i was cleaning the engine bay.

i guess this means the hose is not part of the problem if its been disconnected for the hole time...

i now do not know what the problem is..after i connected the hose, i took off the canzoomer and restored the ecu bay back to oem standards in hope for warranty repair. i reset the ecu, and started the car...suprisingly the car runs great for about 10 mins...i fully warmed it up and did some revving to see if it would stay on so i can go for a drive.

after about 15 mins of idleing the car struggles, the ecu flashes, and as i try to give it a lil gas its revving very rough. so i jus let off the pedal to let it die. i wait 2 mins, try to crank a few times and nothing...when the key is in the acc position the ecu flashed.

im starting to think i have a serious problem. please shed any infor or suggestions you may have...im hoping to try to resolve this myself, i really cant afford to shell out any serious amount of cash right now.

 

You have canzoomer ? hmm thats probably the problem.

Take it off and tow it to dealership

 

its off now, but the fix has been done for the burned coils thing...i double checked

CZ is off....i think ill jus bring it to the dealer and see what they say....

btw i have access to a code reader at autozone...is there any special type of reader that scans our codes???? i remember i tried it once and it kept getting an error saying please connect or somethin like that.

please guys, any other suggestions, anyway of telling if the coils are dammaged without taking them off, prob time to change out anyway, im at 70k now and the last plugs were put on at like 40k

 

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/engine-sputtering-check-engine-light-%3D-spark-plugs-need-replacement-125379/

after searching reading and searching again, this guy seems to be the closest pwerson to having the same problem as me. his solution was sparkplugs and coils...im thinking of going that route...ill try to orderonline and hopefully get them next week so i can do it myself...i hope this is what solves my problems, if not im sure i need them by now anyway so it wouldnt hurt to do it now...any other advice and suggestions are still very much welcome.