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New Optima red top but still have starting problems

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Old 11-02-2011 | 01:28 PM
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UK New Optima red top but still have starting problems

Hi
this is my first thread as i have only had my 8 for 3 weeks, Im trying to get some advice fron the experienced members, When starting my car from cold the engine spins for about 5 seconds before finnaly firing, i thought this was down to a week battery so i bought an optima red top and installed it but alas this was not the problem, it is still taking 5 seconds of engine spinning before firing. I have a 2004 silver 8 with full service history and 79000 mileS on the clock. So far the only issue i have found is the starting of the Beast ( hot and cold, although hot sometimes is harder. )OH And the economy lol im only getting 15 mpg even if i drive like my granma.

any advice you could give would be very very appreciated
Old 11-02-2011 | 01:32 PM
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when was the last time the car was serviced? (plugs/coils)
Old 11-02-2011 | 01:36 PM
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You have something wrong.

The poor mileage is a sign of either compression failing, ignition failing, cat clogging, etc... Your hot start issue suggests failing compression, but still can be some of the other issues as well. Like most of the engine related issues, most of the symptoms fit most of the possibilities, and you are going to have to rule points out one by one.

You say full service history? Can you determine how old the coils, wires, and plugs are?
Old 11-02-2011 | 01:42 PM
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From: Caput Mundi
At nearly 80k miles and following the recommended service intervals for europe it's probably both a compression and ignition problem.
Old 11-02-2011 | 05:39 PM
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my advice is not to replace parts that don't require replacing
Old 11-02-2011 | 07:25 PM
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Ruhh rohhh someone may need a new engine soon. Before replacing all those parts maybe you should go to mazda and pay 125 for for a compression test since you're under engine warranty. Or if you have 225 to spend i suggest buying coils, plugs, and new ignition wires from your local autozone or advanced auto parts. Buying those 3 from the dealer alone would easily be over 800 bucks. Call mazda north america and give them your vin to see what warranty/recalls have been done just so you'll know i.e starter, motor, etc. Hot starts are always bad though....
Old 11-02-2011 | 07:45 PM
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next thing to do first is to have the starter tested.

Last edited by zoom44; 11-02-2011 at 07:49 PM.
Old 11-02-2011 | 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by zoom44
next thing to do first is to have the starter tested.
Where is the tarter located so i'll know?

Last edited by zoom44; 11-02-2011 at 07:49 PM.
Old 11-02-2011 | 08:04 PM
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I don't think a catalytic convert affects start-up but you should get that tested since it's under warranty until 80k miles and you're at 79k.

They're expensive to replace and it's extremely hard to find a quality used one.

Regarding start-up,
did you check the battery terminals when replacing the battery?

Like Zoom suggested, you should check your starter.
If it's not a N3Z1 starter, it's most likely an outdated starter as well as having 79,000 miles on it... it may be time to replace it.

After your starter is replaced, I would suggested getting a compression test done to see if your engine is still within Mazda's specifications.

If it passes, replace your coils, plugs, and wires because that has a lot to do with start-up as well.
Old 11-02-2011 | 08:38 PM
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Compression test and ignition check up should be the first things to do as they do not involve actually changing parts. Team is right on the stop with that advice.
He has no cat warranty or any engine warranty given where he lives.
Old 11-02-2011 | 08:44 PM
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Take one plug out and see if the tip is nice and clean, or all carbonned up, check the center electrode is not roundedoff (the side terms are wires, so hard to gauge condition)

Plugs are the #1 no-start prob.
Old 11-02-2011 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by zoom44
next thing to do first is to have the starter tested.
new starter could make a small difference in how fast it starts.
before my engine was replaced the first thing they wanted to do
was have me buy a new starter, cause i had the original one
from purchase day.
Old 11-03-2011 | 02:10 AM
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Originally Posted by zoom44
next thing to do first is to have the starter tested.
Did you use your moderator powers to edit your post and mine so i could look stupid? Not cool bro...lol
Old 11-03-2011 | 06:34 AM
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Thanks for the replys.. Other than the 5 second engine spin before firing every thing seems fine.. Oil loss it not to bad.. Engine ticks over fine, there is however a lurch feeling under acceleration. I've just spoken to Mazda uk and they want 228 pounds for a compression test.... Scoundrels
Old 11-03-2011 | 06:40 AM
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adrenaline race stole my compression tester some time ago. Since they didn't pay for it they may do tests for way cheaper lol.
Old 11-03-2011 | 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by sticke3
Thanks for the replys.. Other than the 5 second engine spin before firing every thing seems fine.. Oil loss it not to bad.. Engine ticks over fine, there is however a lurch feeling under acceleration. I've just spoken to Mazda uk and they want 228 pounds for a compression test.... Scoundrels
Poor acceleration is yet another symptom of bad coils, plugs, or just lost compression. Pay Mazda for the compression as your core engine warranty is almost finished. Good luck!
Old 11-03-2011 | 09:29 AM
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Nope... no warranty for him already.
Originally Posted by bse50
He has no cat warranty or any engine warranty given where he lives.
Old 11-03-2011 | 09:30 AM
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My other piece of advice is that you don't actually have a problem until it doesn't start
Old 11-03-2011 | 09:35 AM
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That's hardly accurate Team.

There are several ways that there can be something actually wrong that still allow the engine to start. Unplug your MAF for a quick example.
Old 11-14-2011 | 09:54 AM
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Replaced the coils today already an improvement ( still not perfect though ) did not have time to do the plugs and ht leads. I'll do them tomorrow an post to let people know.
Old 11-14-2011 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by RIWWP
That's hardly accurate Team.

There are several ways that there can be something actually wrong that still allow the engine to start. Unplug your MAF for a quick example.
in that particular case you will be advised of a problem by the resulting CEL and as you noted it would not be a cranking/starting problem, the subject of this thread ...

sometimes my engine hits on the very first turn, other times it may take 10 turns, I don't think anything of it as long as it starts
Old 11-15-2011 | 10:37 AM
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Ht leads and plugs changed, way easier than expected. Plugs were golden brown not black, starts cold within a second of turning the key and I have no more vibrating engine. Hot starts within 2 seconds, not perfect but 99.9 % better. Any advice on using 2 stroke pre mix ?? I was thinking of adding 600 ml to a full tank I.e 100/1
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