Spyder_doo

How can we fix this problem if our VDI is not opening like you said?

zoom44

take it to the dealer and have them dignose WHY it isnt. then have them clean/replace/repair whatever to make it work

zoom44

you knowi just took a look at my graph froma few weeks ago at apple blossom festival. i didnt really look at it before because of the problem with the rpm pickup makes the lines all jaggedy and hard to read. but now reconsidering it- its quite clear that between 7k and 7.5k rpm the power dropsand is just dea level from then on- it looks like perhaps mine did not open either i need to get them to send me the raw data and then replot it with the viewer software....

Marietta 8

As promised here's the dyno graphs from this weekend. This is w/ p flash and mods in my sig. As I had said from seeing the data from WDS, some trims were present and they work.

Enjoy!

Charlie Shatzen
Mazcare Inc

Marietta 8

The 5 runs in between were from testing the Amemiya header that has since been removed.

Nemesis8

iTrader: (3)

I'd like to see you dyno the Feed Equal Length Runner Header instead

Nice HP

Rotary Rasp

iTrader: (2)

I thought the A/C cuts out at 65% throttle for no more then 20 seconds. From what I read in the owners book it has nothing to do with the RPM.

Marietta 8

Amemiya made 2hp/2lbft through stock cat, I'll gladly dyno the Feed header for you if you send it to me! How bout that for a sense of humor?

Nemesis8

iTrader: (3)

LOL - that was a good one :D How did it sound though? I'm looking for a deeper exhaust note...

Nemesis8

iTrader: (3)

I thought it was for a mere 5 seconds when the throttle reached 65% from the drive by wire system.

Marietta 8

Almost no noticeable change in tone, I was really surprised too.

snap-on

If you have anyway to monitor it see if the time is really 5 seconds.

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

Yes, I had the various acronyms confused as dannobre stated. Sorry.

CRH

Shankel

Took my 8 to the dealership today to fix a small oil pan leak and wanted the latest and greatest flash.
Can someone please tell me what flash I have?
Invoice states the following:

File Name: SW-N3K7ED000
PCM Calibration Part Number: N3K7-18-881D

Thanks!

RotaryIT

Looks like "N", I get my car back from the dealer today for a laundry list of things. I will provide my input about the new flash after I confirm that I have it.


edit-no it is not N the letter after the E is the flash level. this number above is wrong. zoom44

zoomzoom_8

I am taking mine in tomorrow, most likely they will flash me too. My 8 seems to be lean and mean as it is comparing it to some conversations i have seen on here but no hard proof to back that up. Will the N flash change that or am I paranoid. I am quite happy with the car like it is and certaintly do not want to lose power cause then I will just be insane! Thanks for any advice, *I am willing to refuse the flash and just lose the warranty, turbo is coming soon for me anyways.

Chris

rkostolni

If you are planning to get a turbo soon you might want to hold off on the flash. I am currently installing the Greddy turbo on my 8 which has the N flash but I will have to have the emanage retuned as it is preset to work with M. Not a huge deal, but you'll have to find a tuner or pay a shop.

I really liked the N compared to the M, but I'm not sure how much of a difference it will make after the turbo is on. I think it will still change some things at least, such as the flow of the oil metering pump.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

there has been some talk about how this P flash affects the A/C. Well I did something interesting today. I just removed the A/C fuse from the box and my idle went from a little rough to smooooth! And no i never had the A/C turned on. Heck didnt even have the fan turned on. Seemed to have a tad bit for pep also. Hmmmm maybe this P flash has something.
Olddragger

RotaryIT

I picked up my car from the dealer today after warranty work and the P flash. Strangely enough, I feel that my car is slightly more responsive in the low to midrange, and the typical rattle I heard at 6000-6250 (3rd intake port, right?) is now happening at 7000??

I know that there is one more valve that opens at 7250, but I never heard it before. And I always heard the 6250, but now nothing. Ideas?

After reading through this thread, it seems that there is some confusion about this A/C thing. If I understand correctly, the P flash changes the A/C shutoff from 5500rpm to 7000rpm. At 5500 rpm, this might explain the complaint about weak A/C if you tend to rev relatively high often enough...so changing to 7000 would keep the compressor running to keep the flow of cold air, but does this change the WOT shutoff? So, the quote above from rxeightr is actually correct, in that this change in the shutoff (although not specific in his quote) will in fact help the A/C cycling problem of A?C output going from cold to hot.

Also, Charles....your in Detroit right? Where do you go to get your car dynoed? I live in Ann Arbor. I was thinking about all of these Mods that people are installing, and I have to wonder if the reflashes have a detrimental effect on performance from said Mods. The REVi Intake R&D may have been performed on a car with say M flash, when my car is then relfashed to N or P, is it going to be the same, better, or worse...I guess there is no way to tell until you have it done. I will assume that having an intake is better than no intake in most instances, but will the increase you might have on "M", which the intake was designed around, produce the same output or better on "N".

I would like to get a solid baseline for an 04 8, all stock with P flash and compare to anyone that dynoed their car before mods on an older flash.

Charles, PM me if you would so I can setup a dyno run at a good place.

Thanks

eclps0

my dealer would not flash my car to n nor would he even do p. They say they cant recreate my problems with bad cooling, and lack of power.....

What can i do

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

Here's what I did today; I switched my 5W20 out for 20W50, both from Quaker State. The 20W50 eliminated the noise above 7K rpm's but the power drop-off was still there, and then some(from the thicker oil I presume). I used to run steady 13.7's before the trouble, then 14.0's with the power drop over 7K. Tonight I ran a measly 14.4. The run was slower from start to finish so I am sure the oil viscosity was causing the G-Tech measured 15 h.p. loss. The greater point is that the engine runs much quieter, all around, with the thicker oil in it. I don't plan on keeping the 20W50 in the pan but now I see there is a direct relationship between the noise above 7K and the lubrication system. Just as Mazda stated in their MSP04 list of concerns. Next comes the use of pre-mix in the tank while swapping back to the use of 5W20. If the pre-mix shows improvement of the measurable variety, then I will make some passes with the nitrous in use, as well. If both conditions show gains while using pre-mix, then my conclusion will be that there is a metering oil pump problem with my engine that is not showing a CEL.

In the meantime, I will visit my mechanic and see if he will consider switching me back to the m flash. I will also attempt to contact Mazda for a little conversation on the matter as I have an idea for them.

Here's a question I thought of tonight; Is Mazda's behavior regarding this latest "loss of power" issue mirroring their behavior when it was first discovered that the U.S. versions of the RX-8 didn't actually have 255 h.p.? When they had to down rate the h.p. to 238 they made various offers to placate their customers, including a buy-back offer. Why are they not being equally pro-active and seriously following up on these concerns of ours? I guess I'll find out over the next few weeks.

I am thinking that if we could somehow overlay the low to midrange driveability of the N/P maps with the top-end power of the M maps we could have the best of both worlds and one helluva ride.

BTW, my mechanic told me that the P flash was to also address the "throttle hesitation" issue by altering the injector duty cycle, somehow. To that extent, they got it right. Very crisp response and my exhaust note crackles like it is supposed to.

CRH

Razz1

How and where is the MOP? How much would it cost to install?

Perhaps Charles needs to buy one from RB.

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

I was just on the RB website and I am thinking along the same lines as you, Razz. If the MOP mod is for boosted engines perhaps I have hit the sealing limits of the factory MOP piston settings with my mods and, especially, the nitrous. The weird thing is that I knew nothing of the MOP's functions until I began reading Mazda's MSP04 bulletin so they have some knowledge of this matter, too. The thing is that there are people who don't have mods on their cars who are also experincing the problem. I would hate to needlessly spend $275 to fix something that Mazda cures with a PCM remapping.

The MOP is located on the passenger side of the engine and is somewhat hidden by the thermostat housing. To remove it requires removal of the battery and tray.

CRH

Nemesis8

iTrader: (3)

My mechanic is replacing the MOP on cars that come in with a CEL. I'll get the code tonight when I go see him. It is basically the same fix that RB has done. It is a larger bored out cylinder and piston to pump more oil under high loads.

Maybe we should start a thread about the MOP and the 7K loss - so we can leave the P-Flash thread un-polluted.. Just a thought as I type away...

Sapphonica

Does Mazda need to lift the hood to flash the PCM, or do they use the port in the passenger compartment?

I don't want to void my warranty by having the REVi, so if they don't need to look under the hood, so much the better.

Thanks.