New to rotary...!
#1
New to rotary...!
I bought my first RX8 about a month and half ago. 2004 GT with navigation, MT, grey with red and black interior, 58,600 miles on it when I bought it. I am driving it around town and it is fun and definitely a head turner (not many RX8 where I live).
Before buying it I took it to Mazda dealer for a full inspection, they charged me around 300 bucks and told me there is nothing wrong with it. They did not do compression test on the car and I did not know I should do it at that time..
Since I am reaching 60k miles I wanted to know what I need to do on the car. I was going to do the following:
1. Change rear diff oil
2. Change tranny oil
3. Flush break/clutch fluid
4. Change spark plugs
I was going to get it done at Meineke since they are charging way less than dealer.
I read a lot on this forum and everyone was talking about changing coils and plug wires. Should I do that? I have absolutely no problem such as rough idle or power loss but again I have this car for only about 2 months and I might not know how it should feel.
I appreciate any comments.
Before buying it I took it to Mazda dealer for a full inspection, they charged me around 300 bucks and told me there is nothing wrong with it. They did not do compression test on the car and I did not know I should do it at that time..
Since I am reaching 60k miles I wanted to know what I need to do on the car. I was going to do the following:
1. Change rear diff oil
2. Change tranny oil
3. Flush break/clutch fluid
4. Change spark plugs
I was going to get it done at Meineke since they are charging way less than dealer.
I read a lot on this forum and everyone was talking about changing coils and plug wires. Should I do that? I have absolutely no problem such as rough idle or power loss but again I have this car for only about 2 months and I might not know how it should feel.
I appreciate any comments.
#2
IF you have the money... go to BlackHaloRacing.com and order their Ignition Kit for the RX8 and then change all your fluids. MT-90 for the tranny, Rear Diff as well (dunno which oil) but i have done mine.
#3
Thanks ZumnRx8, Well money is a little bit of an issue that's why I am trying to make sure I am doing all the necessary maintenance without throwing out money. BTW how can I make sure they are putting the right oil? Should I take it to dealer or Meineke is fine? Is there any other fluid I am missing (Like coolant)?
#7
Check how thick the material is on your BRAKE pads first. They might not need replacement yet. Replacements dont necessarily have to be Hawk brand. They can be EBC, Racing Brake, Stop Tech, etc etc. Every brand has their special trait, read up on them and see which suits you best. OEM is probably the best street pad you can get though. It will be hard to find a pad that gives as much cold initial bite as OE pads.
#8
I see what you are saying about break pads. Now back to my first question should I change my coils and wires as my 60K maintenance or should I wait until I have some sort of problem? BTW based on what I found here everyone recommends OEM spark plugs is that correct? what else you recommend for 60K maintenance?
Also is there a way of finding someone owning an RX8 close to me?
Also is there a way of finding someone owning an RX8 close to me?
#10
Khaf if you look at the bottom of the forum options youll see area specific forums
https://www.rx8club.com/mw-rx-8-forum-31/
https://www.rx8club.com/mw-rx-8-forum-31/
#11
Let me clarify what I was asking. I was reading here that everyone changes their coil and wire if they have misfire or loss of power or rough idle or some other problems. Since I have none of those problems I am asking should I wait or should I change it as my 60K maintenance. I haven't seen these two mentioned anywhere in scheduled maintenance.
BTW how does misfire feel? How can you tell?
BTW how does misfire feel? How can you tell?
#13
Khaf, the issue is generally that they degrade slowly, and you will slowly lose power and mileage, often without realizing it. People often first realize it with a misfire, and change it, but you might not. Left long enough, and it causes cat failure, as well as other issues, and those issues can cause yet other issues, etc...
The only reason I would say to go ahead and hold off is if you know when they were last changed, and you know that it was within the last 20,000 miles. Past that, go ahead and change them for preventative maintenance.
Don't take it to a shop if you are looking to save money though. You can do it all yourself cheap and easy. Learn a bunch while you are at it. Wires are $60 and 5 minutes, no tools. Plugs are $80, a plug socket and some extensions and maybe 10 minutes. Coils are $140, a 10mm socket, wrench, and 20 minutes. If you have a series 1, transmission fluid is $40, a 29mm(?) socket, and 10 minutes. You can just fill it through the shifter, no need to get something specialized to pump it in.
BRAKE fluid (you keep spelling it "break", which is referring to the action that gets something broken), is a bit harder, and needs 2 people, and some patience.
The only reason I would say to go ahead and hold off is if you know when they were last changed, and you know that it was within the last 20,000 miles. Past that, go ahead and change them for preventative maintenance.
Don't take it to a shop if you are looking to save money though. You can do it all yourself cheap and easy. Learn a bunch while you are at it. Wires are $60 and 5 minutes, no tools. Plugs are $80, a plug socket and some extensions and maybe 10 minutes. Coils are $140, a 10mm socket, wrench, and 20 minutes. If you have a series 1, transmission fluid is $40, a 29mm(?) socket, and 10 minutes. You can just fill it through the shifter, no need to get something specialized to pump it in.
BRAKE fluid (you keep spelling it "break", which is referring to the action that gets something broken), is a bit harder, and needs 2 people, and some patience.
#14
Let me clarify what I was asking. I was reading here that everyone changes their coil and wire if they have misfire or loss of power or rough idle or some other problems. Since I have none of those problems I am asking should I wait or should I change it as my 60K maintenance. I haven't seen these two mentioned anywhere in scheduled maintenance.
BTW how does misfire feel? How can you tell?
BTW how does misfire feel? How can you tell?
#15
Wow, I feel stupid, I misspelled BRAKE every single time. I will probably go ahead and change the coils and wires too since I do not know when was the last time they were changed on this car.
I read the DIYs on all of these items and I think the only one that I might be able to do is probably coils since I live in an apartment and I do not have jack or jack stands to go under car (and on top of that I never done these mechanical stuff and i am worried to mess it up). I wish there was someone around here that I could have borrowed his tools and get some help and confidence.
For coils I see some say you need to remove air filter box some say you don't have to. My problem is I see there is a small black box at the side of intake that blocks me from getting to coils nuts. What is that and how you get around it?
I read the DIYs on all of these items and I think the only one that I might be able to do is probably coils since I live in an apartment and I do not have jack or jack stands to go under car (and on top of that I never done these mechanical stuff and i am worried to mess it up). I wish there was someone around here that I could have borrowed his tools and get some help and confidence.
For coils I see some say you need to remove air filter box some say you don't have to. My problem is I see there is a small black box at the side of intake that blocks me from getting to coils nuts. What is that and how you get around it?
#17
Plugs/Wires $117 at TH motorsports
Coil Set $150 Mazmart
Just changed mine, cheapest prices around. OEM parts except the wires which are NGK.
The fluids can be changed yourself as well if you're at all mechanically inclined, Ive performed my trans/diff flush under substandard conditions.
I mean with a scissor jack and a water bottle with a rubber hose taped to it, yea that bad. Saved a shitload of money though..
Coil Set $150 Mazmart
Just changed mine, cheapest prices around. OEM parts except the wires which are NGK.
The fluids can be changed yourself as well if you're at all mechanically inclined, Ive performed my trans/diff flush under substandard conditions.
I mean with a scissor jack and a water bottle with a rubber hose taped to it, yea that bad. Saved a shitload of money though..
#18
Renesis07, when did you buy your plugs/wires for $117? I just added the parts to the cart and it comes up as $177!!! I choose NGK for both of them. Part number RE7C-L & RE9B-T for plugs, each at $35.
#20
Don't do it without at least 2 jackstands and jack or ramps otherwise its a pain in the ***.
Tranny you can if you intend to fill gear oil through the gear shift area but you still gonna remove the 2 plugs below and use an oil pump for diff or long hose
Tranny you can if you intend to fill gear oil through the gear shift area but you still gonna remove the 2 plugs below and use an oil pump for diff or long hose
Last edited by yiksing; 08-18-2010 at 03:15 AM.
#21
We had jackstands, it was on the fly, long story. Sometimes you have to improvise
#25
I want to thanks everyone for your comments. I changed my Plugs, wires and coils myself. It took me a little bit longer than it should, but I was trying to be careful and I was learning in the process. It was an awesome experience and great feeling after I put everything back together and the car started. This forum is amazing.
On the oils I bought them and took them to a shop and asked them to be with car when they are changing it to be sure they are not messing it up.
On the oils I bought them and took them to a shop and asked them to be with car when they are changing it to be sure they are not messing it up.