O2 sim that works (Mod Edit: read the thread, it doesn't work)
#1
TFBLKHWKCE
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O2 sim that works (Mod Edit: read the thread, it doesn't work)
ok first i should let you know this isn't an O2 sim but another way to get the same effect. some guys want to take out or gut a cat out and a couple exhaust systems come complete with a race/cat-delete pipe, i have the exoticspeed headers all the way back. Ive read a couple of threads on here about O2 sims and how they don't work and if the do your lucky. well i found a way around it where you don't have to cut any wires. i don't know if this is new or not but i haven't seen it on here.
well what i did was this:
step 1- went to my local auto parts store
step 2- got a HELP! part #42009. this is a spark plug non-fouler.
step 3- open the package....ill stop with the steps
the idea is to block most of the exhaust from the O2 sensor. the non-fouler needs to be drilled out for the O2 sensor to fit. i used a 31/64th inch drill bit but half inch might work too. the spark plug non-fouler is threaded on the inside for the O2 sensor and the end is threaded on the outside to fit in the pipe. you drill it out...thread the O2 sensor in tight...then thread the whole assembly in where the O2 sensor would in the race/cat-delete pipe. then reset your pcm and that should be it.
my friend has a CEL code reader so after a couple days of driving and the car going through many drive/catalyst cycles we checked to see if there were any codes pending....it said catalyst ok and i haven't had a CEL yet and i don't think i will. but if i do and if anyone else tries this then just add another non-fouler to decrease the amount of exhaust gases the O2 sensor reads. i have one on and my O2 sensor sticks out about an inch more than it does normally but has plenty of room.
well what i did was this:
step 1- went to my local auto parts store
step 2- got a HELP! part #42009. this is a spark plug non-fouler.
step 3- open the package....ill stop with the steps
the idea is to block most of the exhaust from the O2 sensor. the non-fouler needs to be drilled out for the O2 sensor to fit. i used a 31/64th inch drill bit but half inch might work too. the spark plug non-fouler is threaded on the inside for the O2 sensor and the end is threaded on the outside to fit in the pipe. you drill it out...thread the O2 sensor in tight...then thread the whole assembly in where the O2 sensor would in the race/cat-delete pipe. then reset your pcm and that should be it.
my friend has a CEL code reader so after a couple days of driving and the car going through many drive/catalyst cycles we checked to see if there were any codes pending....it said catalyst ok and i haven't had a CEL yet and i don't think i will. but if i do and if anyone else tries this then just add another non-fouler to decrease the amount of exhaust gases the O2 sensor reads. i have one on and my O2 sensor sticks out about an inch more than it does normally but has plenty of room.
#4
TFBLKHWKCE
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well the O2 sensor needs to read some but not all the exhaust gases to register. if you drill out the spark plug non-fouler too much then you will get the CEL..same as if you dont drill enough the sensor wont read any of the exhaust gases. maybe i got lucky when i use a 31/64th inch bit...maybe thats the magic size. if it doesnt work right off the bat for you like it did for me then play with it...get it to work. i mean the part only costs like $5...alot less then any O2 sim.
#5
Sotally Tober
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Good info, there has been people here talking about using plug foulers, but from what i remember, they didnt drill it. Sometimes it takes a few days for a CEL to come one after gutting the cat... id be interested in seeing if youre still not throwing codes after a week or so.
Keep us updated!
Keep us updated!
#7
it can take several drive cycles to register a malfunctioning cat.
Just get the cobb accessport and delete the cat CEL so it doesn't show up, instead of hardware trickery.
Just get the cobb accessport and delete the cat CEL so it doesn't show up, instead of hardware trickery.
#19
I don't disagree with you, but I wondered if anyone had checked it with a scan tool to be sure. I know older vehicles would sometimes go into open loop for any code that lit the CEL.