Oil?
#3
Do the changes yourself. It's easy as a drunk chick on Bourbon street.
Originally posted by Meowloud
Castrol
I will between every 3 - 5k (I will shoot for 3k, but may take me awhile to get to the dealer :p )
Castrol
I will between every 3 - 5k (I will shoot for 3k, but may take me awhile to get to the dealer :p )
#4
Originally posted by guy321
Do the changes yourself. It's easy as a drunk chick on Bourbon street.
Do the changes yourself. It's easy as a drunk chick on Bourbon street.
I started out with Castrol. I also own some Penzoil 5-20. It seems that the concensus on the board is for the Castrol. There are some people running Mobile 1 and Royal Purple but there is a LARGE debate about syn VS. dino. I am sticking to dino for the time.
#5
I also use weight 5W 20. Some prefer 5W 30, but it depends on your location, specifically, humidity and temperature.
(Stupid but true: I won't change my own oil because I have a phobia of things collapsing... also, it is easier to drop it off and get a good check-up and have a record that all work was done at the dealer.)
(Stupid but true: I won't change my own oil because I have a phobia of things collapsing... also, it is easier to drop it off and get a good check-up and have a record that all work was done at the dealer.)
#6
Mmmmm... Rotary Donut
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,376
Likes: 4
From: Lake in the Hills, IL (NW Chicago Burbs)
Originally posted by Meowloud
I also use weight 5W 20. Some prefer 5W 30, but it depends on your location, specifically, humidity and temperature.
(Stupid but true: I won't change my own oil because I have a phobia of things collapsing... also, it is easier to drop it off and get a good check-up and have a record that all work was done at the dealer.)
I also use weight 5W 20. Some prefer 5W 30, but it depends on your location, specifically, humidity and temperature.
(Stupid but true: I won't change my own oil because I have a phobia of things collapsing... also, it is easier to drop it off and get a good check-up and have a record that all work was done at the dealer.)
#7
You dont have to jack up the car.. I never do. You can reach the bolt from the right fender if you turn the wheels.. It's even easier with a fumtitomtotitmeotiio (whatever) valve.
Originally posted by Meowloud
I also use weight 5W 20. Some prefer 5W 30, but it depends on your location, specifically, humidity and temperature.
(Stupid but true: I won't change my own oil because I have a phobia of things collapsing... also, it is easier to drop it off and get a good check-up and have a record that all work was done at the dealer.)
I also use weight 5W 20. Some prefer 5W 30, but it depends on your location, specifically, humidity and temperature.
(Stupid but true: I won't change my own oil because I have a phobia of things collapsing... also, it is easier to drop it off and get a good check-up and have a record that all work was done at the dealer.)
#10
Originally posted by RX8Lover
I don't change my own oil, since Mazda will do it for free every 5000 miles for 4 years... :D
I don't change my own oil, since Mazda will do it for free every 5000 miles for 4 years... :D
I use Castrol 5W-20 primarily becuase this is what the dealer uses.
#11
L flash seems to use alot less oil (for me)
Originally posted by allstate
Yes, but you should be ADDING oil probably at least every 1,500 miles. If you are going 5,000 miles without adding oil you are nuts.
I use Castrol 5W-20 primarily becuase this is what the dealer uses.
Yes, but you should be ADDING oil probably at least every 1,500 miles. If you are going 5,000 miles without adding oil you are nuts.
I use Castrol 5W-20 primarily becuase this is what the dealer uses.
#12
Mmmmm... Rotary Donut
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,376
Likes: 4
From: Lake in the Hills, IL (NW Chicago Burbs)
Originally posted by guy321
L flash seems to use alot less oil (for me)
L flash seems to use alot less oil (for me)
#13
Huge bit of advice here. I changed mine after moderate to Ave driving during break in for 1000 miles and then normal driving until 3000 miles and my oil was very very dark. Waiting even 3000 to change seems like pushing it and I dont drive hard that often.
I would recommend every 2000 to 2500 if you are gonna keep the car.
I would recommend every 2000 to 2500 if you are gonna keep the car.
#15
Originally posted by Booster MPS
Huge bit of advice here. I changed mine after moderate to Ave driving during break in for 1000 miles and then normal driving until 3000 miles and my oil was very very dark. Waiting even 3000 to change seems like pushing it and I dont drive hard that often.
I would recommend every 2000 to 2500 if you are gonna keep the car.
Huge bit of advice here. I changed mine after moderate to Ave driving during break in for 1000 miles and then normal driving until 3000 miles and my oil was very very dark. Waiting even 3000 to change seems like pushing it and I dont drive hard that often.
I would recommend every 2000 to 2500 if you are gonna keep the car.
Oil turns dark. Thats what it does.
#16
Mmmmm... Rotary Donut
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,376
Likes: 4
From: Lake in the Hills, IL (NW Chicago Burbs)
Originally posted by Booster MPS
Huge bit of advice here. I changed mine after moderate to Ave driving during break in for 1000 miles and then normal driving until 3000 miles and my oil was very very dark. Waiting even 3000 to change seems like pushing it and I dont drive hard that often.
I would recommend every 2000 to 2500 if you are gonna keep the car.
Huge bit of advice here. I changed mine after moderate to Ave driving during break in for 1000 miles and then normal driving until 3000 miles and my oil was very very dark. Waiting even 3000 to change seems like pushing it and I dont drive hard that often.
I would recommend every 2000 to 2500 if you are gonna keep the car.
It only takes 20 minutes every month or two- small price to pay for peace of mind.
#17
All right, but the first gay ask what brand of oil???
Anyway... what brand and what type are you using? mineral, semisynthetic or full synthetic??
Anyway... what brand and what type are you using? mineral, semisynthetic or full synthetic??
Last edited by mazdaparis; 04-16-2004 at 08:41 AM.
#18
Even though some dirty oil remains in the coolers after a drain, wouldn't the fairly high total oil capacity mean the oil (old plus changed) would take longer to get "harmfully" contaminated?
Of course, still, you are always running the engine with some amount of oil contamination. Hey, I wonder if Mazda has tried a pressure lube-less (pre-mix) engine like Sachs made for snowmobiles in the later '70's.
Of course, still, you are always running the engine with some amount of oil contamination. Hey, I wonder if Mazda has tried a pressure lube-less (pre-mix) engine like Sachs made for snowmobiles in the later '70's.
#22
im using penzoil only b/c its all i could find in 5w-20. my dealer uses mobil, but admittedly only b/c thats what they get the best price on. i changed it at 500 miles, and theoretically ill change it on the 5s, except that it was changed again at 1700 for the frothing problem and im trying to get another one (im at about 4k.)
id really like to switch to redline as its performed well in our other high-performance cars. i know there are two schools out there on this, but im thinking that erring on the side of caution is the better route here.
id really like to switch to redline as its performed well in our other high-performance cars. i know there are two schools out there on this, but im thinking that erring on the side of caution is the better route here.
#23
meow,
if you have a phobia of things colapsing buy ramps. they raise your car much more than needed and are mor ethan the sufficient strength to hol dup the front end of the 8. give it a try and you will always do it yourself!
if you have a phobia of things colapsing buy ramps. they raise your car much more than needed and are mor ethan the sufficient strength to hol dup the front end of the 8. give it a try and you will always do it yourself!
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