Oil Metering Pump gone...need help
#1
Oil Metering Pump gone...need help
Hey there,
So I have a manual 04 and the check engine light is on and has been on for some time. It started when I tried driving the car when it was cold out, the car stalled because I didn't let it warm up and the light never went out. I didn't think anything of it other than why won't it go out. I brought it to the dealership. I'm not sure if they are or are not always on the up and up. They said the light is because the oil metering pump is gone and that it will cost me $1,500 ! to replace it.
1) Does this sound likely to be the problem ?
2) Wouldn't this part be covered under the extended warranty Mazda put out ? Dealership says it's not internal to the engine so it's not covered
3) They say the part itself is 1,300 ! This is hard to believe...
Any help, thoughts, ideas ?? Thanks so much for the help. Simply don't have 1,500 to spend on this right now.
So I have a manual 04 and the check engine light is on and has been on for some time. It started when I tried driving the car when it was cold out, the car stalled because I didn't let it warm up and the light never went out. I didn't think anything of it other than why won't it go out. I brought it to the dealership. I'm not sure if they are or are not always on the up and up. They said the light is because the oil metering pump is gone and that it will cost me $1,500 ! to replace it.
1) Does this sound likely to be the problem ?
2) Wouldn't this part be covered under the extended warranty Mazda put out ? Dealership says it's not internal to the engine so it's not covered
3) They say the part itself is 1,300 ! This is hard to believe...
Any help, thoughts, ideas ?? Thanks so much for the help. Simply don't have 1,500 to spend on this right now.
#4
Won't run without the pump....
What codes are there? You can get a used pump for $100 or so I would expect...there are lots floating around junk yards...they don't fail that often..so should be OK to use
I had one fail..car went into limp mode..no CEL or anything..
The pump will often fail because the switch calibration is off..you can adjust that and it will often work again...
Last resort would be throwing a new pump from Mazda at it...especially for the symptoms you have. If it had truly failed it shouldn't rev past about 3500 RPM's...
What codes are there? You can get a used pump for $100 or so I would expect...there are lots floating around junk yards...they don't fail that often..so should be OK to use
I had one fail..car went into limp mode..no CEL or anything..
The pump will often fail because the switch calibration is off..you can adjust that and it will often work again...
Last resort would be throwing a new pump from Mazda at it...especially for the symptoms you have. If it had truly failed it shouldn't rev past about 3500 RPM's...
#5
Disconnect the neg battery cable for a couple of minutes.....then do the 20 tap brake thing....should go away.. See what comes up if it comes back on
If it was the OMP CEL it should be in limp mode though....
If it was the OMP CEL it should be in limp mode though....
#6
This is the strange part I've been driving it for 4 months...and the oil went down (as usual) and have rev'd it up to 9,000 !!! Do you think they are wrong with the diagnosis ??
As far as the switch calibration, should I suggest to Mazda to check that ? What the f is that ?
As far as the switch calibration, should I suggest to Mazda to check that ? What the f is that ?
#8
OK I did. They said it was shooting cel code 1686, which is: P1686 Metering oil pump control circuit low flow side problem ON 1 Other ´ (See DTC P1686 )
I also asked them to check the switch as was suggested, they said there is no adjustment to the switch. Hmm, is this true or do they not know what they are talking about ?
Someone mentioned just pre mix with oil, if I do that how can I get the light to shut off on the dash ? The omp will still be busted ya know ?
Thanks so much if you can help me...you'd be helping me save over a $1,000 !!
#9
Did they clear it...and did it come back??...
The PCM is good at setting one off codes that don't come back...so unless it is recurring I wouldn't worry about it
They likely don't know it..but the switch is adjustable
If it was a really bad thing the car wouldn't rev above 3-4K like mine did...with about 5% throttle opening
The PCM is good at setting one off codes that don't come back...so unless it is recurring I wouldn't worry about it
They likely don't know it..but the switch is adjustable
If it was a really bad thing the car wouldn't rev above 3-4K like mine did...with about 5% throttle opening
#10
OK...cost me over $100 for them to tell me this ****. So I get the car back, I take off the battery...see if it comes back. If it doesn't I'm good. If it does I should try to adjust this switch. Is it manual ?? Where is this thing anyway ? Under the engine, right side, left side, on top ? Thanks so much for the help !!
Also, how do I make the code stop coming up if it's gone and I decide to just pre add 2 cycle to the gas ? Any idea ?
Also, how do I make the code stop coming up if it's gone and I decide to just pre add 2 cycle to the gas ? Any idea ?
#11
I would just find a used one and swap it out if the CEL comes back..
Adjusting the switch is kinda tricky....but you have to remove the pump to do it anyway...so if you can find a working one its easier to just swap it out
Adjusting the switch is kinda tricky....but you have to remove the pump to do it anyway...so if you can find a working one its easier to just swap it out
#14
#15
JohnsSilverRx8
Please let us know about your OMP story, and how it ended!?
I have same car (04, 6-speed), same problem (DTC 1686) and it was developing very simlar to yours: once it showed up about year ago when it was cold, then cleared and then coming up now constantly after several DTC-clearing attempts for the last month.
I'm kind of stock now - can't find the shop that wants to troubleshoot OMP problem (as per service manual) and I just can't let myself to change $1000+ part without knowing for sure that it is defective.
Please need to know how's your story ends...
dannobre!
If you be so kind and elaborate little bit on those possible quick fixes that you described above (switch adjustments, adding 2 cycle to the gas (???) and "do the 20 tap brake thing")!
Also is it really a good idea to buy a used OMP?
Thanks in advance guys!
Please let us know about your OMP story, and how it ended!?
I have same car (04, 6-speed), same problem (DTC 1686) and it was developing very simlar to yours: once it showed up about year ago when it was cold, then cleared and then coming up now constantly after several DTC-clearing attempts for the last month.
I'm kind of stock now - can't find the shop that wants to troubleshoot OMP problem (as per service manual) and I just can't let myself to change $1000+ part without knowing for sure that it is defective.
Please need to know how's your story ends...
dannobre!
If you be so kind and elaborate little bit on those possible quick fixes that you described above (switch adjustments, adding 2 cycle to the gas (???) and "do the 20 tap brake thing")!
Also is it really a good idea to buy a used OMP?
Thanks in advance guys!
#16
If the pump is functional...why not buy a used one...
The switch adjustment can be as simple as turning it slightly on the mount and having it work....not so simple if you turn it the wrong way though
I would reset the ECU and see what happens...sometimes CEL's are fluke and never come back
The switch adjustment can be as simple as turning it slightly on the mount and having it work....not so simple if you turn it the wrong way though
I would reset the ECU and see what happens...sometimes CEL's are fluke and never come back
#17
#24
When mine went there was no CEL...and it became a check everything else ( wiring harness, blah blah.....) and then change the pump and have everything work
There is a protocol for checking the pump in the FSM...but mine tested fine but still didn't work
In my case the throttle worked after a reset..and then quit working after about 8 sec of running.....
If yours is doing that the pump could be the problem...if you have checked everything else
There is a protocol for checking the pump in the FSM...but mine tested fine but still didn't work
In my case the throttle worked after a reset..and then quit working after about 8 sec of running.....
If yours is doing that the pump could be the problem...if you have checked everything else
#25
I am a Master Certified Mazda Technician
I would like to know exactly what the code was that made the dealership condem the (MOP) metering oil pump. The do not go bad very often. However I just replaced an engine on an insurance job because there was a crack in the block where the engine mount bracket attaches to the rotor housing .I was able to keep the old engine which has a good (MOP) I would be willing to sell it at a very low price if in fact you need the Metering Oil Pump leave me an email address and maybe I can help you out if not with the (MOP) then maybe with some advise on your RX8
Good Luck Mazda Mac
quote=JohnsSilverRx8;3157006]Hey there,
So I have a manual 04 and the check engine light is on and has been on for some time. It started when I tried driving the car when it was cold out, the car stalled because I didn't let it warm up and the light never went out. I didn't think anything of it other than why won't it go out. I brought it to the dealership. I'm not sure if they are or are not always on the up and up. They said the light is because the oil metering pump is gone and that it will cost me $1,500 ! to replace it.
1) Does this sound likely to be the problem ?
2) Wouldn't this part be covered under the extended warranty Mazda put out ? Dealership says it's not internal to the engine so it's not covered
3) They say the part itself is 1,300 ! This is hard to believe...
Any help, thoughts, ideas ?? Thanks so much for the help. Simply don't have 1,500 to spend on this right now.[/quote]
Good Luck Mazda Mac
quote=JohnsSilverRx8;3157006]Hey there,
So I have a manual 04 and the check engine light is on and has been on for some time. It started when I tried driving the car when it was cold out, the car stalled because I didn't let it warm up and the light never went out. I didn't think anything of it other than why won't it go out. I brought it to the dealership. I'm not sure if they are or are not always on the up and up. They said the light is because the oil metering pump is gone and that it will cost me $1,500 ! to replace it.
1) Does this sound likely to be the problem ?
2) Wouldn't this part be covered under the extended warranty Mazda put out ? Dealership says it's not internal to the engine so it's not covered
3) They say the part itself is 1,300 ! This is hard to believe...
Any help, thoughts, ideas ?? Thanks so much for the help. Simply don't have 1,500 to spend on this right now.[/quote]