Hey all!

Just an enquiry about the Renesis 13B.

I have a 2003 RX8 (equivalent to 2004 model in USA), and I have just encountered the dreaded CEL for "Metering Oil Pump" circuit 4 or something along those lines ...

Took it to my Local Mazda dealer and they told me the OMP needs to be replaced at $1500 plus labour on top. Ouch!!!

So I'm looking for one from the U.S. My question to the tech-savvy people here is: Is the Left Hand Drive Renesis 13B any different to the Right Hand Drive Renesis when it comes to parts??

Because I don't want to buy the Oil Metering Pump from USA only to find out that being off a Left Hand model, it's different to the Right Hand Model in Australia.

Can someone clarify this for me ?

Would be greatly appreciated..

Thanks.
Andre

 

Anyone???

 

Its the same OMP

 

Awesome, thanks a lot!

Now to find one in good condition from the USA... know of anyone?? Heh.. would really really help.

Cheers!

 

Furthermore, you don't need to replace it. You just need to recalibrate the position switch, which is something the dealers can't and wont do, but you can do it yourself.

 

Really? I think I've heard something about this a while ago...

Could you tell me how this is done?? Or point me in the right direction?
I would really be grateful.

Thanks a lot...

Regards,
Andre

 

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...osition+switch

that should be the thread you're looking for

 

That's my tech article on the subject.
For hmmrx8, the entire process consists of loosening the screws and moving the sensor a tiny, tiny bit clockwise, tightening the screws and trying it out.
If the code doesn't go away, repeat.
Tedious, but simple.

Mark its position with a silver sharpie marker first and if going a few degrees clockwise doesn't work, try going the other way.
There is a limit to how far it will spin, so there are only so many positions to try.

 

Thanks for all the helpful information guys.. this is great.

As for the adjustment.. if I adjust the sensor clockwise, doesn't that kinda restrict the level of oil flow rather then allow more? Sorry if I sound like a newbie here, this is my first time owning a rotary. I will jack the car up and try to adjust the sensor as you said. I'll let you know how I go.

I have an auto electrician coming to inspect the car on Monday. The fault code I am getting from the car said something like "Metering Oil Pump Circuit #4" .. I can't remember the exact mention because I left the scan report at my mechanics.

 

MazdaManiac,

I Just went underneath the car to try and inspect the OMP. But it's hidden away and I couldn't access it. I have to take the whole underbody tray off first..

I have a few questions though:

1 - If I adjust the Sensor, how will it clear the CEL light/code?? Isn't it deemed a 'hard code' by the ecu that can only be cleared with a reset?

2 - Could you break down all the steps required in the correct order? I.E: First remove underbody/engine tray, adjust switch with oil pump on car, turn car back on etc .. I need to know which order and what exactly I should do, so I don't end up stuffing this thing up even more.. I know I'm asking for a lot, but I'm not too familiar with rotarys and such.

The auto electrician whom is coming to check the car out in a few daysis going to perform all the checks that are listed on here:

http://www.myrotarycar.com/portal/fo...201600W02.html

http://www.myrotarycar.com/portal/fo...201600W03.html

Is this going to achieve or tell me anything I don't already know?

Stressed out! lol

Thanks mate.

 

its not hard to remove the undertray. just couple of screws here and there

adjust it. clear the code. test. repeat if u need to

 

Hey thanks...

Okay got it.. but I have one more newbie question.

Once I adjust it, how do I clear the code?? By taking the negative battery cable off?? And then pumping the brake pedal 20 times to reset eccentric?

I really appreciate this mate. I just hope it all works and fixes my problem.. Mazda really wants to screw me on this.

 

Checking the OMP wiring with a meter will likely not tell you much I have had this problem a few times...and the OMP always scoped out within specs.

You are better to mark the switch position..and then move it slightly...reset the ECU and try it....repeat until you find the spot that works. Despite having an oscilliscope..I have never found the way to set it so that it works every time without fail.

On one car I had to remove the pump itself...rewind the shaft back to zero position....re-install the switch before it would work again

If I thought that they would tell me...I would write Mikuni..the company that makes the pumps....for the adjustment info that they MUST have to set these up

 

Arghh this is such an annoying piece of metal! Lol.

Okay so I'll be doing this all tomorrow.

Just to clarify:

1. Remove Undertray
2. Loosen screw on right hand side of positioning sensor, mark top & bottom of screw, then move slightly down a mm or two, down the radial cut of the metal.
3. Remove negative battery cable
4. Pump brake pedal 20 times whilst key is in 'ON' position.
5. If code is cleared, then cool.. if not, get back underneath and readjust a few more mm's down.

Is this correct Dannobre ? I hav attached a picture to this post in regards to what I will go ahead and adjust. Please clarify and correct me if I'm wrong.. Thanks.

 

Need to loosen both screws......Other than that....sounds good

 

the position should already be marked by the factory. Every one I've seen this should be the case, but changing the switch position is the first thing to try. I have a good used OMP with switch, but I just hauled it to Dallas during an initial move, am leaving tomorrow, and won't be back for two weeks, so I'd need to know ASAP in order to do something with it any time soon.

edit: they are all marked on the top side from the factory, if you are doing it from the bottom you will need to mark it per MM.

 

Aww I was close.. lol

Okay, so I loosen BOTH screws.. and obviously hold the left one in place, so the sensor doesnt drop on that side right? Then adjust the right side a little lower, so it makes the sensor appear a little angled on that side, then re-tighten.

Correct?

 

just loosen both enough so you can rotate the switch about, nothing will drop, the way it is mounted only allows it to move radially about the bolts per the slotted mounting holes

 

Marked from the top?? Shoot!! And i'll mark it from the top/bottom of each screw by mm.

As for your OMP, is it in 100% working order? I might be interested if this doesnt work tomorrow. PM me a price and we'll take it from there.

Once again, a big thankyou to everyone giving me their input.. This is really helping one way or the other.

 

UPDATE:

Just want to let everyone know, that I adjusted the sensor approximately 1.5teeth (or barely a few mm's), and reset the ECU, and the car is running fine now.

Only thing is, after doing the hard reset n all, the car has a slightly low/rough idle.. any reason for this?

A BIG thanks to everyone who helped me with this matter, especially Dannobre and MazdaManiac. Thanks a lot guys.

 

Give the car a couple of days to relearn the fuel trims..and it will idle much better

The poor idle is normal after an ECU reset

 

On a small percentage of cars.
Most idle/start better after a reset.

 

Let's hope being supportive works in this case

 

Dannobre,

You were right. Driving around town a bit, the car learnt the fuel trims and now it idles back to normal.

I sold the car 3 days ago too!