Oxygen Sensor Removal -ALERT DUMB QUESTION!
#1
Oxygen Sensor Removal -ALERT DUMB QUESTION!
K....so I'm trying to take my cat off and I can't remove the connector on the rear o2 sensor...*sigh*...I feel dumb enough asking this question so please...just answers...
*My flame suit is on*
*My flame suit is on*
#2
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 252 Likes
on
110 Posts
get a pair of pliers, clamp down on the "lever" part of the connector to clear the latch, and pull downward. The lever is on the upper side that will stay with the car, not the cat side. If that still doesn't work, clamp down the lever in the same method, and use a flat bladed screwdriver between the two parts and start using leverage to work them apart. Might want to hose it down with MAF cleaner if you have it, that should be safe for the electrical bits. Other cleaners might be fine but not sure there. Don't start breaking things, but it's likely just grimed/dirty, and creating too much friction to separate easily.
#5
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 252 Likes
on
110 Posts
Yeah, they are terrible. I've cut off more cat bolts than I have removed between my Miata and 8.
If it's the rear bolts, the "nut" on one side is welded on, and won't turn. The bolt with spring on the other side is what comes off. The spring keeps a complete pain of a force on the bolt, with the rust adding interference, so every rotation of the bolt is a struggle.
If it's the front bolts, the nut has to come off the bolt before the bolt moves, and then it has ribbing like a spline to prevent it from turning, you have to hammer the bolt out of the hole. Again, rust is an issue. These ones are often so far gone in rust that they have to be cut.
When my OEM cat came off the first time, I had to drive to a local shop, pay them $20 to put the 8 on a lift and remove the bolts, replacing them with mine, I drove back home, lifted it up and pulled the new bolts out and dropped the cat. Shops can't remove the cat, but they can remove the bolts
If it's the rear bolts, the "nut" on one side is welded on, and won't turn. The bolt with spring on the other side is what comes off. The spring keeps a complete pain of a force on the bolt, with the rust adding interference, so every rotation of the bolt is a struggle.
If it's the front bolts, the nut has to come off the bolt before the bolt moves, and then it has ribbing like a spline to prevent it from turning, you have to hammer the bolt out of the hole. Again, rust is an issue. These ones are often so far gone in rust that they have to be cut.
When my OEM cat came off the first time, I had to drive to a local shop, pay them $20 to put the 8 on a lift and remove the bolts, replacing them with mine, I drove back home, lifted it up and pulled the new bolts out and dropped the cat. Shops can't remove the cat, but they can remove the bolts
#6
Ahhh...I see...I was trying to take the welded bolts off haha. I'll attempt the ones with the springs...And do you know how to take the rubber piece off? Do I have to use an Allen Key or something?
#8
Theres two metal "pipe" looking things that connect to a rubber piece...I'll try to get a picture up if you don't know what I'm talking about...And those bolts with the springs are a PITA! I can't get them to budge! They don't look like they have any rust on them at all though...
#9
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 252 Likes
on
110 Posts
Ah, the rubber exhaust hanger. That's just a vibration isolation bit. The two "pipes" are just metal rods.
They are also a pain. The best way I've found is hosing it down with some sort of lubricant, (preferably a non-petroleum lubricant because they dry it out and make it stiff over time, but if all you have is a petroleum one then once you have it off clean it with mild soap and water), get a long flat bladed screwdriver and work it from the "rod" side of the hanger along the rod till the tip comes out the other side. It's a pain, but keep at it. Once you get the tip out, work it until the flat of the screwdriver is over the tip of the metal rod, and then start levering with the screwdriver, keeping the tip as the pivot point against the end of the rod. If they have never been removed, you may have to work it around a bunch to get it to start sliding. If they are newer, then you can usually just pop them off in 1 shot.
They are also a pain. The best way I've found is hosing it down with some sort of lubricant, (preferably a non-petroleum lubricant because they dry it out and make it stiff over time, but if all you have is a petroleum one then once you have it off clean it with mild soap and water), get a long flat bladed screwdriver and work it from the "rod" side of the hanger along the rod till the tip comes out the other side. It's a pain, but keep at it. Once you get the tip out, work it until the flat of the screwdriver is over the tip of the metal rod, and then start levering with the screwdriver, keeping the tip as the pivot point against the end of the rod. If they have never been removed, you may have to work it around a bunch to get it to start sliding. If they are newer, then you can usually just pop them off in 1 shot.
#10
Time for boost...
iTrader: (24)
For all future "Dumb Questions", click here https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discussion-3/dumb-question-thread-no-flaming-sarcasm-allowed-208221/
Also, the Google search is a more efficient way of finding info. Click link in my sig
Also, the Google search is a more efficient way of finding info. Click link in my sig
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Pelleilee
New Member Forum
6
09-29-2019 10:07 AM
Junirol
RX-8 Parts For Sale/Wanted
43
09-22-2015 06:02 AM