My car is currently running with the stock airbox and K&N filter as I was having an issue with my RB intake. Out of no where, I'm getting a CEL with a P0335 designation, which implies an eccentric shaft sensor malfunction.

I think I read at one point that the computer gets a little wonky with intakes or filters if you have one installed and roll backwards in a stall (which I did accidentally), hence the eccentric shaft code.

I have tried to reset the computer through pulling the battery cable, the brake pedal pumping, and the mileage button reset. Is there another way to reset the eccentric shaft position with the PCM? Did I miss anything? Any other ideas how to fix this issue?

Thanks guys.

Alan

 

Just in case you didn't see these
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...17-05-1487.pdf
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...30-05-1544.pdf

 

I don't think it's the intake...the stock filter does it too...I spun a few years ago on the track and got the same code....

resert it and it will probably never come back

 

I had it b4, probably like 10K miles ago.

Pull the battery cable and it never came back.

 

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/ecu-clear-reset-27548/

post 3. i would do both..

but they will not clear the ltft.. only the bat pull will cover that..

beers

 

I have reset everything twice (battery pull, brake pedal and mileage reset( and I'm still getting the rough idle leading to stalling after a few drive cycles with the HF filter and stock box.

I don't get it, could weather affect it? I had this issue once with the RB intake, reset everything and it went away and didn't come back for months. this is confusing to me....its like the car is hyper sensitive to airflow, but its metered, I don't get it.

 

did the oil pressure gauge go to halfway then back down when you did the eccentric shaft sensor reset? if it didnt then you didnt do it... also check your mass airflow meter, take out the two screws and visually look at it. oil will be drawn out of the k&n filter and coat the sensor leads, causing all kinds of mayhem. you may be able to clean it if that is the case

 

I cleaned the MAF and IAT sensor and when doing so I noticed that at some point I must have broken a piece of the plastic that raps around the IAT sensor (the sensor is fine, just the plastic "U" is partly missing.

Would that missing piece of plastic be an issue? I wouldn't think so, as its really just there for protection, but I thought I would through it out there.

We will see what happens tomorrow when I'm driving.

 

if you have somehow damaged that piece of plastic you likely have damage the whole sensor.. i will look tomorrow and see if i have a spare....

you might also clean the connector to the maf.. what is your mileage now alan??

btw, the secret ? i called about the other week.. i fixed it..


beers

 

The MAF is relatively inexpensive...buy a new one

 

My mileage is 49,909, almost to 50K

 

pm back,

if you see this. call me. will be up for quite a while..


beers

 

today when i pulled out my car i had the same problem. my car just kept dying out, backfiring like crazy and felt a major power lost during 3.5k - 5k rpm. i ran a scan on it and the code was P0335 which is same as yours. the weird thing is the car ran fine after a couple of die outs, but the code is still there. so does that mean i would have to replace the eccentric shaft sensor or does resetting the cel fix it? any help would be great

 

thanks! ill give it a try tomorrow

 

after leaving my key in the on position all night last night after a drunken cigarette lighting, my battery was dead when i went to start it today.

i jumped it with my other car and let it run for a while. after that, i shut it off, let it sit for aw while, then started it up only to find a p0335 cel (instead of gideon's bible).

i reset the ecu with the ap. still there. i reflashed my map with the ap. still there. i pumped teh brake pedal 20 times until the il pressue needle swung. still there. i pressed those two stickes above the tach for 25 secs until the engine light blinked. still there.

i'm going to try the battery pull. sheesh. weird. i wonder what tripped it?

 

One thing I found when doing the battery pull, is that I had to leave it pulled for a few hours. My theory was that this was due to needing to drain the capacitors. I imagine if I would have turned on my lights while the battery was pulled, this may have sped up the process, but didn't think of it at the time. If a quick pull doesn't do it, try leaving it pulled with the lights in the on position for an hour or more and see if that helps.

 

interesting. i did not pull the battery. i reflashed my map and shut the car off for 3 hours. when i turned it back on, it was gone. bizarre.

 

Hopefully it stays off