Parasitic Draw
#1
Parasitic Draw
I did a test for Parasitic Draw and it was reading 60 mA.
I started pulling Fuse's and found that when I pulled the Room Fuse the draw went down to 13mA My question now is does anyone have a wireing digram of what gos to the Room fuse so I can try to narrow it down.
how i did the test was I unhooked the + terminal and ran my meter leads to the + battery post then to the unhooked + cable. This was the correct way right.
Thanks
u1cracka
I started pulling Fuse's and found that when I pulled the Room Fuse the draw went down to 13mA My question now is does anyone have a wireing digram of what gos to the Room fuse so I can try to narrow it down.
how i did the test was I unhooked the + terminal and ran my meter leads to the + battery post then to the unhooked + cable. This was the correct way right.
Thanks
u1cracka
#2
I did a test for Parasitic Draw and it was reading 60 mA.
I started pulling Fuse's and found that when I pulled the Room Fuse the draw went down to 13mA My question now is does anyone have a wireing digram of what gos to the Room fuse so I can try to narrow it down.
how i did the test was I unhooked the + terminal and ran my meter leads to the + battery post then to the unhooked + cable. This was the correct way right.
Thanks
u1cracka
I started pulling Fuse's and found that when I pulled the Room Fuse the draw went down to 13mA My question now is does anyone have a wireing digram of what gos to the Room fuse so I can try to narrow it down.
how i did the test was I unhooked the + terminal and ran my meter leads to the + battery post then to the unhooked + cable. This was the correct way right.
Thanks
u1cracka
What lead you do this?
I know that you will have some current draw always(for clock, alarm, etc.), but I'm not sure it should be 60mA. If someone doesn't get you the diagram by morning, I will post it here. It's on my other PC upstairs. I'll post back if I find a link saved on this laptop, but I doubt it. I believe while you should have been able to measure the wat you did, go ahead and measure as described below.
You may want this link!
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdarx8/
I found this:
Back-up current is the constant flow of current present (for the audio unit, clock, PCM, etc.) when the ignition switch is off and with the ignition key removed.
Back-up current
1. Verify that the ignition switch is off and that the key has been removed.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Measure the back-up current between the negative battery terminal and the negative battery cable. <---- It doesn't say this, but make sure all your doors are closed!
BTW.................there have been some issues with the trunk latch not working properly, so you need to make sure your trunk is closed and that switch is operating properly.
• If not within the specification, measure the back-up current while removing the fuses one by one from the inside of the main fuse block and the inside of the fuse block.
Caution
• Operating electrical loads while the back-up current is being measured can damage the tester.
Standard current
20 mA max.
4. Inspect and repair wiring harnesses and connectors of the fuse where the current decreased.
Last edited by Mazurfer; 01-11-2008 at 11:01 PM.
#3
Yes, you did it right. Were you having battery issues or something?
What lead you do this?
I know that you will have some current draw always(for clock, alarm, etc.), but I'm not sure it should be 60mA. If someone doesn't get you the diagram by morning, I will post it here. It's on my other PC upstairs. I'll post back if I find a link saved on this laptop, but I doubt it.
While I look, go poke around on here:
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdarx8/
What lead you do this?
I know that you will have some current draw always(for clock, alarm, etc.), but I'm not sure it should be 60mA. If someone doesn't get you the diagram by morning, I will post it here. It's on my other PC upstairs. I'll post back if I find a link saved on this laptop, but I doubt it.
While I look, go poke around on here:
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdarx8/
If you have the link I would really appreciate it Thanks. I cant think what is hooked up to the Room Fuse that would cause a drain like that.
Thanks
U1cracka
#4
Yes I am having battery Issues I don't drive my car that much because I work a lot and use the company truck so when I let it sit for 7-10+ days the battery is drained not completely dead but It wont start the car.
If you have the link I would really appreciate it Thanks. I cant think what is hooked up to the Room Fuse that would cause a drain like that.
Thanks
U1cracka
If you have the link I would really appreciate it Thanks. I cant think what is hooked up to the Room Fuse that would cause a drain like that.
Thanks
U1cracka
I'll send the diagram in the AM unless I find it on some site somewhere.
Last edited by Mazurfer; 01-11-2008 at 11:10 PM.
#5
Were you having battery issues or something?
What lead you do this?
I know that you will have some current draw always(for clock, alarm, etc.), but I'm not sure it should be 60mA. If someone doesn't get you the diagram by morning, I will post it here. It's on my other PC upstairs. I'll post back if I find a link saved on this laptop, but I doubt it. I believe while you should have been able to measure the wat you did, go ahead and measure as described below.
You may want this link!
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdarx8/
I found this:
Back-up current is the constant flow of current present (for the audio unit, clock, PCM, etc.) when the ignition switch is off and with the ignition key removed.
Back-up current
1. Verify that the ignition switch is off and that the key has been removed.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Measure the back-up current between the negative battery terminal and the negative battery cable. <---- It doesn't say this, but make sure all your doors are closed!
BTW.................there have been some issues with the trunk latch not working properly, so you need to make sure your trunk is closed and that switch is operating properly.
• If not within the specification, measure the back-up current while removing the fuses one by one from the inside of the main fuse block and the inside of the fuse block.
Caution
• Operating electrical loads while the back-up current is being measured can damage the tester.
Standard current
20 mA max.
4. Inspect and repair wiring harnesses and connectors of the fuse where the current decreased.
What lead you do this?
I know that you will have some current draw always(for clock, alarm, etc.), but I'm not sure it should be 60mA. If someone doesn't get you the diagram by morning, I will post it here. It's on my other PC upstairs. I'll post back if I find a link saved on this laptop, but I doubt it. I believe while you should have been able to measure the wat you did, go ahead and measure as described below.
You may want this link!
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdarx8/
I found this:
Back-up current is the constant flow of current present (for the audio unit, clock, PCM, etc.) when the ignition switch is off and with the ignition key removed.
Back-up current
1. Verify that the ignition switch is off and that the key has been removed.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Measure the back-up current between the negative battery terminal and the negative battery cable. <---- It doesn't say this, but make sure all your doors are closed!
BTW.................there have been some issues with the trunk latch not working properly, so you need to make sure your trunk is closed and that switch is operating properly.
• If not within the specification, measure the back-up current while removing the fuses one by one from the inside of the main fuse block and the inside of the fuse block.
Caution
• Operating electrical loads while the back-up current is being measured can damage the tester.
Standard current
20 mA max.
4. Inspect and repair wiring harnesses and connectors of the fuse where the current decreased.
I removed my trunk bulb long ago so I don't think it is that unless it will still draw a current with the bulb removed.
I am going to try the doing the test with the negative battery cable tomorrow.
I am also going to try and unplug the radio and A/C and see if that is the problem.
I was just going to leave the fuse out being that i don't really need the dome lights that much but the power locks radio and I think the A/C didn't work with the Fuse out.
Thanks
U1cracka
Last edited by u1cracka; 01-12-2008 at 12:08 AM.
#6
I was just looking in the car to make sure none of the lights were on when the door is shut and I noticed that the glove compartment light does not work I pulled the bulb out and it looks good I am wondering if this is the problem.
Thanks
U1cracka
#7
[QUOTE=u1cracka;2237838
I was just looking in the car to make sure none of the lights were on when the door is shut and I noticed that the glove compartment light does not work I pulled the bulb out and it looks good I am wondering if this is the problem.
Thanks
U1cracka[/QUOTE]
Never mind I thought the light came on when you open the glove box but I guess it only comes on when you turn on the light's
Thanks
U1cracka
I was just looking in the car to make sure none of the lights were on when the door is shut and I noticed that the glove compartment light does not work I pulled the bulb out and it looks good I am wondering if this is the problem.
Thanks
U1cracka[/QUOTE]
Never mind I thought the light came on when you open the glove box but I guess it only comes on when you turn on the light's
Thanks
U1cracka
#8
But just to be sure I am going to test the draw again and this time I will be unplugging the radio and all other aftermarket parts hooked in the dash.
Thanks
U1cracka
#9
Daughter is still sleeping and she took over my office when she moved home, so I can't get to the other computer this morning.....yet.
Anyway, one thing you could do(and I know it would be a pain), but since you let it sit for 7-10 days at a time, you could pull the room fuse during those times. I guess if you left the cover off and at your feet it would remind you to plug it back in. Just a thought. Either that or disconnect battery when it's going to sit. I know you shouldn't have to, but.................
I'll send diagram asap if you make no headway.
Anyway, one thing you could do(and I know it would be a pain), but since you let it sit for 7-10 days at a time, you could pull the room fuse during those times. I guess if you left the cover off and at your feet it would remind you to plug it back in. Just a thought. Either that or disconnect battery when it's going to sit. I know you shouldn't have to, but.................
I'll send diagram asap if you make no headway.
#10
There was a long thread about that awhile ago.
Stupid ain't it????
Last edited by Mazurfer; 01-12-2008 at 05:29 PM.
#11
Daughter is still sleeping and she took over my office when she moved home, so I can't get to the other computer this morning.....yet.
Anyway, one thing you could do(and I know it would be a pain), but since you let it sit for 7-10 days at a time, you could pull the room fuse during those times. I guess if you left the cover off and at your feet it would remind you to plug it back in. Just a thought. Either that or disconnect battery when it's going to sit. I know you shouldn't have to, but.................
I'll send diagram asap if you make no headway.
Anyway, one thing you could do(and I know it would be a pain), but since you let it sit for 7-10 days at a time, you could pull the room fuse during those times. I guess if you left the cover off and at your feet it would remind you to plug it back in. Just a thought. Either that or disconnect battery when it's going to sit. I know you shouldn't have to, but.................
I'll send diagram asap if you make no headway.
I was going to pull the fuse out but every time i do that my radio resets and I lose all my setting's.
Thanks
U1cracka
#12
#15
Still think page five is your best bet. There's a lot of stuff hanging off that room fuse. Having said all that.............and knowing you have an aftermarket audio system, you better start looking in that area. I'm sure it will be there in some fashion and could have been there all along. How long has the stereo been in?
Oh.......and what was the final current draw you measured when doing it off the negative side?
Oh.......and what was the final current draw you measured when doing it off the negative side?
#16
Still think page five is your best bet. There's a lot of stuff hanging off that room fuse. Having said all that.............and knowing you have an aftermarket audio system, you better start looking in that area. I'm sure it will be there in some fashion and could have been there all along. How long has the stereo been in?
Oh.......and what was the final current draw you measured when doing it off the negative side?
Oh.......and what was the final current draw you measured when doing it off the negative side?
I have not had a chance to do the nagative side test yet I am goin to try it today if i can get some time.
Thanks
U1cracka
#17
Now that I have the wireing digram how would I go about finding out the problem unit do I just unhook the plugs that go into the unit or will that break the unit to unhook it while theres power.
From what I see there is 12 things that run off the room fuse here is a picture of the wiring digram for everyone who does not have it. I have traced all the one's that are hooked to the room fuse.
http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/4898/scan0019hh8.jpg
Thanks
U1cracka
From what I see there is 12 things that run off the room fuse here is a picture of the wiring digram for everyone who does not have it. I have traced all the one's that are hooked to the room fuse.
http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/4898/scan0019hh8.jpg
Thanks
U1cracka
#18
I looked it over last night and thought........crap...........some of this will be easy to eliminate and some of it won't. I'd have to take a harder look and see, but start with the easy ones. You probably already know this..........but are all of you lights okay? Do you have any that might be burned out and instead of being open they might have a leakage path or be shorting?
At this point if it was me and I confirmed that I was drawing much above the supposed 20mA on that negative reading..........I'd leave the meter hooked-up and start eliminating until I found it. Bulbs where I could, and then connectors......etc.
At this point if it was me and I confirmed that I was drawing much above the supposed 20mA on that negative reading..........I'd leave the meter hooked-up and start eliminating until I found it. Bulbs where I could, and then connectors......etc.
Last edited by Mazurfer; 01-17-2008 at 07:24 PM.
#19
I looked it over last night and thought........crap...........some of this will be easy to eliminate and some of it won't. I'd have to take a harder look and see, but start with the easy ones. You probably already know this..........but are all of you lights okay? Do you have any that might be burned out and instead of being open they might have a leakage path or be shorting?
At this point if it was me and I confirmed that I was drawing much above the supposed 12mA on that negative reading..........I'd leave the metere hooked-up and start eliminating until I found it. Bulbs where I could, and then connectors......etc.
At this point if it was me and I confirmed that I was drawing much above the supposed 12mA on that negative reading..........I'd leave the metere hooked-up and start eliminating until I found it. Bulbs where I could, and then connectors......etc.
I just did a test from the negative side and it was pulling 80mA then went down 13.5mA then when I plugged the fuse back in and it fluctuated between 57mA true 65mA.
I also took my stereo out and unplugged it and the blue tooth device and it still was @ 57mA so I now know it is not the radio.
Anyone know the location of the other components on the picture so I can unplug them one by one to see which is bad.
Dose all the RX-8's have daytime running lights because I don't see any light's on in the daytime other then the light when you open the door's .
So here's what I have eliminated .
Radio unplugged from harness and no change
Dimmer mirror don't have it so that's eliminated
Thanks
U1cracka
#20
All my bulbs work could they still work and be shorting out at the same time.
I just did a test from the negative side and it was pulling 80mA then went down 13.5mA then when I plugged the fuse back in and it fluctuated between 57mA true 65mA.
I also took my stereo out and unplugged it and the blue tooth device and it still was @ 57mA so I now know it is not the radio.
Anyone know the location of the other components on the picture so I can unplug them one by one to see which is bad.
Dose all the RX-8's have daytime running lights because I don't see any light's on in the daytime other then the light when you open the door's .
So here's what I have eliminated .
Radio unplugged from harness and no change
Dimmer mirror don't have it so that's eliminated
Thanks
U1cracka
I just did a test from the negative side and it was pulling 80mA then went down 13.5mA then when I plugged the fuse back in and it fluctuated between 57mA true 65mA.
I also took my stereo out and unplugged it and the blue tooth device and it still was @ 57mA so I now know it is not the radio.
Anyone know the location of the other components on the picture so I can unplug them one by one to see which is bad.
Dose all the RX-8's have daytime running lights because I don't see any light's on in the daytime other then the light when you open the door's .
So here's what I have eliminated .
Radio unplugged from harness and no change
Dimmer mirror don't have it so that's eliminated
Thanks
U1cracka
#21
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