Would love to get that restrictor for my car

 

^ I'm sure a machine shop could make it for almost nothing. Maybe try at a community college or something. Or do like me and use a hollow socket lol.

 

So dose it actually work? I've had my 05' rx8 for five year running turbo for the last four I don't pre-mix and never had issues, but I would like more oil to be injected for extra insurance and I rather not pre-mix....

 

Well if you don't want to believe what I post (no offense taken) you could always try it your self and see your own results, and reverse the process if you do not like it. I mean, what's the worse thing that could happen? You burn more oil?

 

I understand once I get back home to the good old US Of A I will try it out on my 8, I've been wondering how much if any oil actually is flowing trough the line good way to check/clean it all up, by the way I'll be in new Orleans in two weeks can't wait....wooooowoooo

 

Earth to space cadets - if the hose is located before the throttle body it is only an air vent or supply connection. It has to be located after the throttle body to be vacuum. That is not a vacuum hose. It is an anti-vacuum air supply hose.

the problems with doing it the way described in this thread are;

1. You have no idea or control over how much is going in and when
2. Vacuum is high at idle, low engine speed, and deceleration, Vacuum is low at high engine speeds. This is just the opposite of what you want for OMP flow.


this is hillbilly garage engineering at it's finest :facepalm:

.

 

Ok, in my own defense...





Waiting for a awesome reply Team

 

Nonsense.

Pull the hose loose while the engine is running and it sucks air down towards the OMP at a pretty good rate. In the first pic, I disconnected the hose and attached it to my manifold vacuum gauge, also of course, capping the accordian tube inlet. Running the car, the vacuum behaves very much like it does attached to the UIM. The only exception I could find was a slight positive pressure, ~1 psi, WOT, 7-9k rpm in 1st gear. It did not do this in the same range in 2nd and 3rd where the highest pressure seen was about -2 psi.

To verify nothing funny was going on with the connection on the intake, I hooked up the MP gauge as shown in the second pic. Very little difference between the pressure with engine off and on, even at high rpm.

Restricting the diameter of the vacuum hose between the OMP area and the air inlet serves to increase the vacuum seen by whatever part of the OMP system the hose is connected to. I'll leave it to the smart people to explain why this serves to increase the oil injection rate. However, given this experience, plus that of ~50 Germans as data points, I'll take it as a given that it does so, until proven otherwise.

 

In this video you can also see me checking for vacuum on that line.


And here is a shot of one of my oil injectors removed last week, looks good to me.

 

^ Yup. Where does the seafoam go when sucked in there?

 

It splits into 4 small vacuum lines one going to each injector, then into the combustion chambers.

 

So Seafoam added as in your video will clean the injectors (but not the lines)?

 

Correct

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=217177

 

You can also look in the DIY section for Hesselrode's thread to show more. The way he puts cleaner through the injector is the same way the seafoam is being injected in my video.

 

1) Part of a ballpoint works perfect; has inner diam. of approx. 2 mm.
(Solution of Woorrmser/Germany)





2) My personal solution................ thin copper bar witch thin copper disc with 2 mm hole soldered together, can be hidden in vac. tube, position is secured due to the length of the bar, can be easily removed afterwards..........increasing standard OMP supply with approx. 65%...........


http://s7.directupload.net/images/110419/p226w9dx.jpg






http://s1.directupload.net/images/110419/z4h55g4g.jpg

 

^ Thanks! I did the seafoam thing, then put in a restrictor. Trying a 3 mm hole to see if there's some difference. Lots of ways to do this, but I took a brass hose barb, sanded the hex away to match the ID of the hose, the clamped it in place. Pics below.

 

apparently you didn't read this, it is an air supply to prevent vacuum from the intake side of the combustion process from pulling excessive amounts of oil through the OMP nozzles. There is no "vacuum" unless you plug or restrict it excessively.

it is a controlled leak with an intended purpose, just like swirl nozzles on the primary intake ports. Why it increases the amount of oil into the engine is obvious if you have any basic understanding of physical principles. It is exactly the opposite way that Mazda designed and intended. What you are doing is not only at the wrong timing of engine events, you also have no way of knowing how much is going in and when as with using the stepper motor function of the Cobb AP. You are only adding oil when vacuum is high, which is when engine load is low. How much and specifically when is anybody's guess. Oil consumption is just some overall average. If you think dumping a bunch of oil in during idle and deceleration when vacuum is highest makes sense then have at it. It will likely foul spark plugs and certainly decrease cat converter life for those who care enough to still have one.

 

you don't have to deal with MM for anything. If you aren't tuned now then it is no different than running the Stock tune map with an AP, which you can get a used one for around $300. The fact that you can't tune it yourself is just symptomatic of the hillbilly garage science mentality. You are fooling with stuff without any real idea what you are doing. You won't try to tune your own ECU but you will do stuff like this because you have somehow convinced yourself that you can't screw it up ...

 

We can call the line what ever you want, it seems like you just want to argue about the the technical term.

I know the oil consumption is just an "average" but I still rather burn more in "the wrong timing of engine events" than not enough period.

Not concerned at all about plug or cat life since I don't even have a cat and I change my spark plugs yearly.

Your probably unaware of why I been messing with this so much. My compression is low, not low enough to give hot start issues yet, but it's not heathy. This engine will die soon no matter what I do. I feel the engines do not get enough oil, or at least mine does not. I've owned rx7's (3 FC's) all of them burned 1qt per 1kmiles. I've logged many miles in these cars over the course of 6 years never had engine failure, and my last one made it to 230k before I sold it (it sadly died the day I sold it to a friend, he just wouldn't listen to me about taking it easy when the engine is cold, I'm sure you can guess what happened)

When I got this car I was burning 0.5qts per 2kmiles. This is what started everything for me. Then I began reading, and came to my own conclusion that with out premix and increasing oil from the omp (reguardless of how I do it) this engine is pretty much doomed when it leaves the plant.

I'll add more to this later.



___________________
This is at 91k miles on 03/16/11 https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discussion-3/am-i-getting-ripped-off-dealership-quote-213336/

This is a home compression test I did myself before the warranty ran out. Mileage about 98k.
https://www.rx8club.com/newreply.php...eply&p=4083273 09/21/11

The engine in my car has about 60k miles on it. I plan on checking it again in about a month when I change the plugs out. And since I started increasing oil consumption last year in June/July I should be able to see if this is helping keep engine wear down and compression up or not.

 

Don't know why everyone is questioning this. (May have already been mentioned) Mazda even released a TSB at one point for the exact same line causing an increase in oil consumption.

 

^ I read about it a long time ago, which is why i went the route I did. Then I found the German site applying this technique already and dove in.

 

Air flows through this hose exactly why then? There is lower pressure at one end than the other. Whether you choose to call the low pressure 'vacuum' or not is a matter of taste.

What is the intended purpose? How is this qualitatively different than violating Mazda's intended purpose by upping the flow rates using the Cobb?

What makes you think that upping the rates via Cobb doesn't increase the chance of fouling and reduce cat life? But you did point out what I consider a major weakness of the stock OMP system - deceleration. Throttle closed at significant rpm means minimal oil injection. It can happen for minutes at time while descending steep grades. Or for seconds during high heat critical times, lifting off from full throttle for a corner, making side seal temps higher than they need to be. There "should" be an additional map based on MP to deliver oil at a reasonable rate during decel or even gear shifts for that matter. Agreed, there is no need to add extra oil at idle, but the highest vacuum is reached during decel. Ideally one would add oil based on manifold pressures lower than represented by idle.

Why didn't Mazda do that? My guess is emissions. In gear throttle closed, there's no fuel, cat temp drops, and the extra oil would go through as a HC spike.

My plan is to use a "modest" 3mm dia restrictor, but not use the CW, but about equally unscientific, technique to raise flow rates with the Cobb across the board. I'll leave the low power rates the same and increase them only on the higher end. And yes, I run a cat. $100 and zero problems after 9000 miles including rather heavy duty driving.

YMMV

 

hm my understanding of how OMP works is that it would inject most oil during the decelerations due to the strong engine vacuum sucking oil out of the oil injectors. on the other hand during the WOT OMP pump is the only thing that pushes oil out of the nozzles and it does so against 1-2 psi of pressure HiFlite999 measured, right?

 

I understand that, but I would feel much more comfortable paying someone to set it right, someone that has done it before many times. Why spend +$300 only to change the omp rates when I can increase oil flow for free? Just because it is not high tech, does not mean it can not work. And I never said I couldn't screw it up. I just posted my ideas, how I did it, and my results. If anyone is following what I did they did it on their own free will, just like I did.

 

You are so off base your head is barely visible

The OMP injects oil....with a positive displacement pump...so the oil will go in because it is basically non-compressible...
The rate of oil flow is determined by how the pump is commanded by the ECU to pump.....and decel is not a time that the ECU says it needs lots of oil

If you are using vac to pull oil out of the lines...it will just cause them to empty...and when the pump is trying to inject more oil when it needs it it will have to fill the lines first before any comes out....this is a BAD idea...DON't do this MOD...it is really stupid You are really sucking oil out when you don't need it...and not getting it properly when you do