Possible New Renesis Engine Failure Theory?
#576
Oooh, shiny!
iTrader: (1)
I want to check simply if there exists an oil nozzle with a failed check valve. Looking at the hose diagram, one hose (from the accordion tube) goes to a hub that splits out to all of the injectors. Using this end of the hose (and if I am understanding the physics correctly), applying a vacuum of 9.65+ psi and watching for a drop of 0.39 or more over a minute would indicate a failure in at least one nozzle.
Is this lazy-man's test valid?
Is this lazy-man's test valid?
#580
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Okay, guys. Rob at Pineapple finally had a chance to tear down my old Mazda Reman and the findings are troubling. I did not rebuild this motor, I had a perfectly running 2008 motor rebuilt instead. I am glad I did. I will post pics in a few minutes.
Now keep in mind that this motor was premixed and ran the SOHN from almost day one and only had 30,000 miles on it. Also, it ran BHR coils and no cat from break in. So, did the failing injectors cause this even though I was premixing 1oz per gallon when i realized my SOHN reservoir was not emptying like usual?
It looks like it was "rebuilt" with used rotor housings from the high amount
of wear to the chrome.
The motor looks like it was run hot. Although the water seals still look ok, the
inner water seal on the back side of the rear rtr. hsg. was flat. The combustion
gases were coloring the housings as they leaked past the seal. There are also signs
of leakage in other locations.
Both housings have large cracks at the lead plug holes. The unique carbon deposits
are classic of a housing with cracks at the plug holes. The size of the cracks also indicates
the housings were reused.
The side seal clearances were fair. Most were in the .006-.009" range.
The grooves had a fair amount of carbon build up.
I have not cleaned up the plates/housing to measure for warpage.
I would say you made the correct choice in not rebuilding this core over buying the
one you did.
of wear to the chrome.
The motor looks like it was run hot. Although the water seals still look ok, the
inner water seal on the back side of the rear rtr. hsg. was flat. The combustion
gases were coloring the housings as they leaked past the seal. There are also signs
of leakage in other locations.
Both housings have large cracks at the lead plug holes. The unique carbon deposits
are classic of a housing with cracks at the plug holes. The size of the cracks also indicates
the housings were reused.
The side seal clearances were fair. Most were in the .006-.009" range.
The grooves had a fair amount of carbon build up.
I have not cleaned up the plates/housing to measure for warpage.
I would say you made the correct choice in not rebuilding this core over buying the
one you did.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 09-16-2011 at 10:10 AM.
#581
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Copied from my build thread for those who don't visit that thread.
Okay guys, pics Still waiting on Rob to let me know how the bearings held up since I can't really tell from the pics.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153673850/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153673806/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153126501/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153673406/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153673244/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153125837/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153125777/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153125759/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153672804/
Not the best resolution but i zoomed in and they appear to have held up pretty well right?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153688222/
Okay guys, pics Still waiting on Rob to let me know how the bearings held up since I can't really tell from the pics.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153673850/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153673806/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153126501/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153673406/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153673244/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153125837/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153125777/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153125759/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153672804/
Not the best resolution but i zoomed in and they appear to have held up pretty well right?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153688222/
#585
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
I agree 100%. It is interesting how different builders have different opinions on that sort of thing and what should and should not be replaced. I am so glad I chose Pineapple, overall it was just an awesome experience. Hopefully the motor lives up to my expectations.
#587
Super Moderator
Totally agree, New Housing are a must on higher mileage engines in ANY rotary rebuild...anything else and you're totally compromising your rebuild, you might as well use used Apex Seals.
Straight away you can see this owner (9K) looked after this engine/car.
Bearings look very very good and e-shaft.
Check out the Side Seal gap to Corner Seal!
How many miles again, on this one 9K?
Apart from that everything else look normal to excellent!..
Congratulations on your care..9K!
Straight away you can see this owner (9K) looked after this engine/car.
Bearings look very very good and e-shaft.
Check out the Side Seal gap to Corner Seal!
How many miles again, on this one 9K?
Apart from that everything else look normal to excellent!..
Congratulations on your care..9K!
#589
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Totally agree, New Housing are a must on higher mileage engines in ANY rotary rebuild...anything else and you're totally compromising your rebuild, you might as well use used Apex Seals.
Straight away you can see this owner (9K) looked after this engine/car.
Bearings look very very good and e-shaft.
Check out the Side Seal gap to Corner Seal!
How many miles again, on this one 9K?
Apart from that everything else look normal to excellent!..
Congratulations on your care..9K!
Straight away you can see this owner (9K) looked after this engine/car.
Bearings look very very good and e-shaft.
Check out the Side Seal gap to Corner Seal!
How many miles again, on this one 9K?
Apart from that everything else look normal to excellent!..
Congratulations on your care..9K!
Thanks, I am glad I was able to do this.
#592
Super Moderator
I call the carbon, light-normal...without seeing the other Rotor...normal.
#599
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
My FC Engine pics, no zoom zoom cleaning (I can't do it, lol)
Unknown miles, why? cuz the last owner said the owner b4 him (last last owner?) had a rebuild engine about 30K miles ago.
but upon further inspection, I was like "no freaking way," cuz a lot of things were wrong with the engine, rubber plugs are MIA or never installed(melted?), still using older wire-type corner seal spring (seriously, this is a recent rebuild from 4+ yrs ago?) , wrong kind of Oil seal O-ring rubber (yeah, it was using the one Mazda said don't use it, and it's in pieces when I took it out, no wonder this engine was having massive oil leak/blown-by) , etc.
mind u all, those "black stuff" on the housing is NOT burn marks !!! it's actually silicone LOL ! I was like What the F ? It's every f-king where at places that you don't need it, but at places that NEEDS it, hmm, it's MIA. I was shock that this engine didn't leak from day one ...
Last edited by nycgps; 09-17-2011 at 10:24 PM.
#600
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
You are lucky your engine was build properly, it was such a nightmare to clean my FC engine, I got cut like 50 times and I spent days just to try to scrap all those carbon and silicone off ...
I should just wipe (or soak) the housing with PB blaster and call it a day ...
Last edited by nycgps; 09-17-2011 at 10:31 PM.