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Your oil line looks very exposed under there .....
What are you doing about oil circulation ?
Nothing really. leaving it this way. Theres plenty of clearance there, I had it that way for a while back in the days when she was running.
If you mean what I use to extract the oil from the turbo, I use an electrical pump (you can see it installed on the front bumper) that serves the purpose.
Tacked together upper and lower portion of the downpipe.
Downpipe as it should be when connected
Turbo before gasket matching.
After gasket has been matched
Almost ready to go in. Just waiting to get the last piece: O2 censor flange.
intercooler vents
Manifold in the making. Sorry about the horrible looking welds. I haven't done it in a very long time. My welding has improved as i continued along. I promise :-)
Another view
Yet one more view of the manifold in the making...
New tires for the rear wheels
Turbo before the cleanup.
Ported the wastegate hole
Cut off the exhaust flanges
Prepping the flange
upper portion of the turbo manigold being prototyped
Sometimes it helps to look at the big picture...
A litttle closer...
Manifold is in...
Another view
And another..
From the distance
Trying on the turbo. Sorry for the colors. Just wanted to see what it would look like in red. <br/>Ewwww...
I see lot's of boost leaks in your future. Also, the vents on the undertray will probably greatly diminish the efficiency of the cooling system. Oh, and good luck with RA seals.
I'm kinda confused .............. did you start off with a low mount then change to a top mount . What happened to change your mind on where to mount it ?
I see lot's of boost leaks in your future. Also, the vents on the undertray will probably greatly diminish the efficiency of the cooling system. Oh, and good luck with RA seals.
Other than that, good stuff
Not sure what you are talking about with Boost leaks?
Unlikely, for the cooling system. There is ducting that I put in that splits and isolates the airflow for the intercooler from the radiator entirely. air for the intercooler flows through and exits through the bottom vents. Air for radiator goes to the radiator only.
Yes I heard about RA seals and did quite a bit of reading on them. some say they eat housings, some say they wear faster.. I have also read testimonies from people who have had them for years, running perfectly fine with no reasons to rebuild. who do you believe? I know one thing, first time i had blown the engine the OEM seal tore the housing and damaged the rotor. Second time had nothing to do with the seals, but the thrust bearing failed. I am not going to worry myself with what may or may not happen. Time will show. When you mod your engine to near double it's power output, you can't expect it to run for a 100K miles like the OEM motor would. Hope for it maybe, but lets be realistic. Meanwhile I just wanna have some fun.
Originally Posted by Brettus
I'm kinda confused .............. did you start off with a low mount then change to a top mount . What happened to change your mind on where to mount it ?
Your previous comment got me thinking and looking into it closer... I never had a problem with low clearance personally, back in the days when I drove the car, but that was then. I have a speed bump right next to my house. My son doesn't have much experience driving manual, so he jerked it a bit too fast. The car was driven over the speed bump and caused a crushed air pipe and a scary scratch on the oil line.
Instead of trying to patch it, I opted to eliminating the issue altogether. Plus I had a lot of fun building it all by myself from scratch
Actually took it out for a drive today... The car needs a complete re-tune. Everything is different. Spool is insanely fast. I am getting near 8PSI at 2500 rpm in first gear. All I have to do is open the throttle a little. I was having a real hard time keeping the car out of boost while cruising. A little throttle push and it jumps into positive. I have never seen anything like this on an 8! Can't wait to see how she'll run when tuned properly.
Post some pics of your duct work. The more couplers, the more boost leaks. It took a while to get all the local turbo 8's boost leaks sorted. I did it by listening to the experts and ditching the T bolt clamps.
I have known two people with a Renesis who tried RA seals and had issues with housing wear. the only guys who have had good experiences seem to be the RX-7 guys and even those are 50/50. Supposedly they are okay with brand new housings but i wouldn't risk it personally. If you have a solid tune then apex seals is not something to really worry about IMO. Alll the turbo RX8 guys I know of who broke apex seals did it by pushing it with a less than ideal tune.
Spooling that early will get old especially if it comes on fast and sudden. There are also potential long term engine health issues. I know this is up to your personal preference, but I can tell you that I'm going with a significantly larger turbo the second time around.
Post some pics of your duct work. The more couplers, the more boost leaks. It took a while to get all the local turbo 8's boost leaks sorted. I did it by listening to the experts and ditching the T bolt clamps.
I have known two people with a Renesis who tried RA seals and had issues with housing wear. the only guys who have had good experiences seem to be the RX-7 guys and even those are 50/50. Supposedly they are okay with brand new housings but i wouldn't risk it personally. If you have a solid tune then apex seals is not something to really worry about IMO. Alll the turbo RX8 guys I know of who broke apex seals did it by pushing it with a less than ideal tune.
There is a video on my Youtube dedicated entirely to intercooler and ducting..
Actually my eyes fooled me. it does not hit 8 psi by 2500 rpm. It does spool quicker, but nothing that quick. more like 8 psi by 32 - 3500 which is more along the lines of not so unusual.
I realized that wastegate actuator shaft was pinched in shut position and kept the valve from opening which also contributed to faster initial spool. I corrected that issue.
On the other hand the drivers side motor mount popped and leaked out. It is my fault, I forgot to unbolt it and kept on jacking the motor up and down when fitting the downpipe, and pulling on it must have damaged the rubber. Now I get to feel all the shuddering and vibrations with my behind. A replacement mount is ordered.
Actually my eyes fooled me. it does not hit 8 psi by 2500 rpm. It does spool quicker, but nothing that quick. more like 8 psi by 32 - 3500 which is more along the lines of not so unusual.
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Thanks for clarifying ... I was scratching my head on that one . That is pretty good all the same . About the same as a Greddy setup.
03-02-2016, 11:58 AM
Now I get to feel all the shuddering and vibrations with my behind. A replacement mount is ordered.
