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Radiator coolant Boiling

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Old 04-05-2008 | 07:41 PM
  #51  
TrochoidMagic's Avatar
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From: hollywooood!
its really hard to nail spot on with described words as noises.

but there are numerous ways these items can fail... so i don't go to the assumption that it'll only make one type of noise.
but, the noise you describe is somewhat understandable for a failed WP.

anyhow, i'm shooting for the fans/motor. it can possibly be detached from the motor shaft or worse... that sounds like a "whirring" noise to me... and with driving that stabilizes the temps, that sounds like airflow compensating the job of the fan at idle.

i hope its only that simple of a problem and not worse
what's ur guess MM?

again, GL on the fix and hope its cured
let me know the culprit

Last edited by TrochoidMagic; 04-05-2008 at 07:47 PM.
Old 04-05-2008 | 07:59 PM
  #52  
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well how about doing a little test ?

Sit at home, Idle ur car till it gets to *normal* operating temp. about 1/2 way shown in ur gauge, at normal operating temp, ur water temp should be between 80-ish Celsius.

then, Idle ur car at around 2.5K Rpm for about 2 minutes, your water temp should go UP, and at least your FAN 1 should turn itself on at around 97 Celsius.

You should be able to hear ur fan *tickle* and on, its pretty loud.

if nothing, ur fan is dead.
Old 04-05-2008 | 08:06 PM
  #53  
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From: New Mexico
Angry

yeah i used to hear it after i shutdown the car in the garage. now i dont hear it at all i think it is dead too.
Old 04-06-2008 | 12:14 AM
  #54  
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From: Planet Earth
if u want to be *sure*, then u should pop the hood, then have someone listen to the sound.

remember dont turn any AC or whatever on. Just idle to normal temp, then keep the rev at around 2.5K rpm for couple of minutes. Usually 5 minutes should be able to kick at least Fan 1 on.
Old 04-07-2008 | 09:42 PM
  #55  
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this time the dealership says my overheat was the cause of the fan control module shorting out or a defective part. they claim heat from the last boil over caused by a loss of pressure in the radiator cap may have damaged the Fan control module. i dont see that being the case but whatever as long as it works like its supposed to.
Ill find out how it runs and let you guys know tomorrow.
Old 04-07-2008 | 10:10 PM
  #56  
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From: Planet Earth
Originally Posted by RedDragonRX8
this time the dealership says my overheat was the cause of the fan control module shorting out or a defective part. they claim heat from the last boil over caused by a loss of pressure in the radiator cap may have damaged the Fan control module. i dont see that being the case but whatever as long as it works like its supposed to.
Ill find out how it runs and let you guys know tomorrow.
Wow, more bullshit coming from dealerships.

I really want to know what kind of reason they can come up with.

Boil over cuz the Rad cap is broken fine ... but how the HELL the cap or the boil over can Damage the Fan control module ? What the water was too hot and melt the wires and boards ? I dont think so ~~~~

jesus. I think the problem WAS the fan to being with.
Old 04-07-2008 | 10:24 PM
  #57  
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Evans waterless coolant :D
Old 04-07-2008 | 10:25 PM
  #58  
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From: New Mexico
yeah thats exactly the way i saw it too. they think all customers are ignorant or something. if i have one more problem coolant related its off to a different dealer for me. thanks for the input anyways guys!!

chainsaw the EvIl dealership
Old 04-07-2008 | 10:38 PM
  #59  
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From: Planet Earth
You should run away from that dealership AS SOON AS this thing is *fixed*

Never , ever, I mean EVER ! go back there again
Old 04-09-2008 | 08:42 PM
  #60  
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From: New Mexico
TrochoidMagic looks like you were right!!!

the fans shorted out, stopped working and popped a fuse. they replaced both fans,fuse, radiator cap and coolant. the car is running much smoother and cooler.

And to top it all of they gave me a full tank of gas!!
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