Searched, but didnt really understand.

Are there only 2 screws that you have to take off the rear calipers to get the brake pads off??

I took 2 off (like the front caliper), but it's STUCK, wont budge. Any help?? Pixs would help a lot.

 

You actually only need to remove one and loosen the other.
That way, you can swing the caliper off and won't have to worry about dropping it and ripping the brake line.
But, since you got both bolts off anyway.... I just use a large flat-head screwdriver and pry between the caliper and the rotor.

 

Thanks bro for the quick response

 

If the rotors are worn, or just old, there will be a 'rim' of rust (or even a wear groove) around the outer perimeter of the pad contact part of the rotor, preventing the pads/caliper from coming off easily.

Jon316G is absolutely right about moving a pad away (gently) to allow the caliper to come off more easily.

Note that you should put a micrometer on the rotors to make sure that they are not worn beyond specs.

Minimum rear disc thickness is 16 mm {0.63 in}.


(just F.Y.I: front disc minimum thickness is 22 mm {0.87 in} )

 

And to add to Silver06's informative and very well put information.....
FYI: The rear caliper swings down and the fronts swing up.
The brake line will prevent them from swinging the other way.

 

Get some pare towels. put them around the master cylinder.
Open uo the cap.

You need to allow tthe pucks to receed. Remove the pressure from the system. It also help when screwing the puck back in.

 

Is your parking brake on?

 

I seriously LOL'd.

HAHAH

 

+1

so i'm in the middle of doing my rear pads. i went to pull the rear caliper off, and i actually did have the brake set from last night...and i really felt like a dumbass. i'm just glad my friends had ran inside for drinks at that time. its the stupid little things in life that get you.

but just to let you know, my calipers didnt just fall/slide off. i had to pull moderately. (maybe a 2 or 3 out of 10, on the force meter).

problem is, i have to find a new rotor today...the rear left is shot.

 

How does one visually determine a rotor to be "shot"? While you might be able to see some warpage because rust didn't get whiped off...it would be pretty rare. You sure your caliper isn't shot?

 

the only reason i'm getting a new rotor is because one side of it is very worn down, im not sure if it can be turned yet. gotta get it measured. i'm searching to find out how thick it needs to be AFTER its turned. i'm no mechanic, just hate paying $100/hr roughly to get my car worked on.

 

See above?

 

thanks

 

i have a diy on rear pad removal