When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i have been getting a really bad noise from my rear right tire and im pretty sure its the wheel bearing since i hit it against a curb a couple of months ago its not that bad but still want to get it fixed. I've looked around and haven't found a DIY on how to do it. if anyone knows please let me know, if not then do any of you know if changing them for other cars would be the same. thanks for the help
moniche, you never seem to disappoint. the op is inquireing about a rear wheel bearing and you directed him to a thread that deals with a front wheel bearing, why am i not suprized. i posted in that thread because ive replaced both of mine.
take the pulley to a person who have a hydraulic puller to take the old one out and then reinstall, to much work for me so i took mine to a mechanic , he charge me $170 completed ,he did everything for dismounting and installation.
take the pulley to a person who have a hydraulic puller to take the old one out and then reinstall, to much work for me so i took mine to a mechanic , he charge me $170 completed ,he did everything for dismounting and installation.
moniche, you never seem to disappoint. the op is inquireing about a rear wheel bearing and you directed him to a thread that deals with a front wheel bearing, why am i not suprized. i posted in that thread because ive replaced both of mine.
The Mazda part number your looking for is: F151-26-151 It should be $100 or more. You need only one per side. I've replaced several of these. Each time we build a new race car we start with new rear wheel bearings (front also). The rears are much, much more difficult because you'll need them pressed out with a good bearing press and some unique spacers or adapters that make this job easier.
Where am I going with this? Find a good, smart guy with a bearing press and buy him his favorite case of beer. It should take him about 15 minutes if he's good.
Yeah, kind of a PITA. You have to undo and push the axle end out the back of the hub, unbolt and pull the upright/hub assembly out, then put in a press to punch the hub/bearing out of the upright. The bearing always separates and leaves the inner race on hub shaft. Getting it off is the PITA part, the rest is not so bad as long as nothing has corroded and/or seized. There are a few more steps than that, just giving you the basic overview.
Naah took me about an hour to take mine out, not bad just lot of things to take off. on the lift you can do both sides in 30 min. took my hub to dealer to have the bearing pressed in for $40.
Heh. I hate messing with rear bearings because of the need for a press. When my right rear bearing went out, I took it to Cobb Tuning in Plano after getting the part from Mazda. They quoted me 1 hour, but worked on it for 6 hours. After some friendly grumbling, they charged me $96. That might be the best $96 I have ever spent. :D
Wow..6 Hours!!, what did they do fly to Japan to buy one...
Unfortunately this is what happens when some workshops don't have the required tools or experience, and why people get ripped off at a genuine car dealer workshops as these guys have a small fortune in the mandated by car manufacturer SST's (Special Service Tools) which they hardly ever use because they are seen as too expensive to pay for work done there, a bit like the dog chasing it's tail.
Lucky they did not charge you those extra 5 hours..
yeah, front is easy as shitz took me 15 mins and I was taking my time, rear is ... such a bitch, without SST like Ash mentioned, u gotta be creative and ... some hammer time required
To Cobb's credit, they only charged me for 1 hour and were very honest about the process. The dealer told me whey would have to replace the entire hub assembly, and the book time was 4.4 hours. I walked from the service department to the parts department and bought the bearing, then took the car to Cobb. They may have struggled with it (probably due to not having the SST), but they saved me ~$725 over the dealer quote and did excellent work. And, for the low, low cost of $96, saved me a Saturday's worth of my time.
yeah, front is easy as shitz took me 15 mins and I was taking my time, rear is ... such a bitch, without SST like Ash mentioned, u gotta be creative and ... some hammer time required
See the new 2016 ND MX-5 has throw away rear wheel bearing small hubs held on with 3 bolts (similar to the set up on the fronts of NC/RX-8).
No more pressing out for the rear wheel bearings.
See the new 2016 ND MX-5 has throw away rear wheel bearing small hubs held on with 3 bolts (similar to the set up on the fronts of NC/RX-8).
No more pressing out for the rear wheel bearings.
they should have done that, seriously pressing bearing out is NOT fun ... shoot I still remember the time I had to chaisel and hammer the **** out of the front bearing for my FC, Mazda wants you to buy a new hub everytime for I think 200 bux? funny thing is they actually do sell the bearing but it's not listed in FC's EPC. hammered for 1/2 day to get the race/bearing out, holy crap haha
Does anyone know who makes the OEM F151-26-151 bearing? I don't mind paying the extra $50 for a better bearing but I'm seeing the Timkin equivalent for half the price and I've never had a bad time with their products. For reference, the Timkin part is listed as TIMKEN WB000007 {#F15126151}.
Timken source their parts from all over the world, sometimes u get stuff made in US/Japan, sometimes China. but even made in China parts from Timken are better than some made in Taiwan/Japan/USA part
Timken source their parts from all over the world, sometimes u get stuff made in US/Japan, sometimes China. but even made in China parts from Timken are better than some made in Taiwan/Japan/USA part
So just get it, don't worry too much about it.
btw, Koyo makes stock bearing.
Thanks for the info! I can think of a few hundred other places I can put that $100 saved to good use.
Sorry to bring up such an old thread, does the snap ring come out before or after I push out the hub? It looks like it just holds the bearing in place and I can't get access to it until after the fact. But now that I've pushed one out It looks like I might have damaged the snap ring and I can't seem to pull it out and half the bearing is stuck to the hub like Team brought up earlier.
After you push out the hub. You have to press/push the hub center though, not the outer bearing that seats against the retaining ring. The bearings are long cylinders, not *****. So the bearing center collar that is pressed onto the hub center and should push out together with the hub and the outer bearing will stay in the upright. Then you take the retaining ring out and press the outer bearing from the upright. Then comes the real job, getting that bearing center off the hub. Or just toss it and go buy new bearings and new hubs. We didn’t have that much trouble getting them off, but did a little creative machining on the hub before assembling back together that will allow the bearing center to be removed easier in the future with a press or puller without hammering. I didn’t get any pictures of that though.
07-11-2011 | 12:34 AM
