Red Line Synthetic Motor Oil
#1
Red Line Synthetic Motor Oil
I have ordered the redline MT-90 and the 75W-90 Gear Oil and am looking forward to changing out my factory fluids. Just curious has anyone added the
5w-20 redline motor oil? I don't hear too many things about it.
5w-20 redline motor oil? I don't hear too many things about it.
#2
I don't think this really belongs in the DIY Forum as a separate thread, but I'll answer anyway. There are a number of threads that discuss Synthetic oil. Redline is one of the ones mentioned. I believe the DIY "Oil Change for Dummys" addresses Synthetics in some posts as well. Try doing a search for "Synthetic Oil" and you will probably find more than you feel like reading.
#3
I have used Redline synthetic oil in all my cars for the past 13 years.
It is 1 of the very best brands. I did a lot of research back in the day before I chose Redline as my brand.
I contacted them and they said they do not have any specific data on using their oil with the Renesis rotary, but their oil has always performed well in rotary engines.
I am torn between Redline and RP.
Since I only have 500 miles, I have time to decide..
-B
It is 1 of the very best brands. I did a lot of research back in the day before I chose Redline as my brand.
I contacted them and they said they do not have any specific data on using their oil with the Renesis rotary, but their oil has always performed well in rotary engines.
I am torn between Redline and RP.
Since I only have 500 miles, I have time to decide..
-B
#5
Mazda recomends that you DO NOT use synthetic motor oil. The engine is designed to burn a small amount of oil in the lubrication process, and they have no data on how burning synthetics will effect the engine.
#6
not according to this thread... and an authorized dealer now sells it...
https://www.rx8club.com/rosenthal-mazda-68/new-product-39089/
https://www.rx8club.com/rosenthal-mazda-68/new-product-39089/
#7
from what i've read on here, I think a lot of people are using synthetics. I am not an expert but I have read that pre-renesis motors were recommended to not use synthetics, and changes have been made to be more compatible with synthetics. Again not an expert, so anyone that IS, advice would be good.
#8
The problem nowadays is that the term "synthetic" doesn't necessarily mean "man-made" or "PAO" oil (PAO is an acronym for a chemical name I can't recall off the top of my head...) also known as "group IV" base stock oils. I got a lot of great info on this stuff from The Oil Drop Forum.
Basically, if an oil producer can formulate an oil (even from "dino" or "mineral" base stocks) with an additive package that meets high enough perfomance characteristics, the producer can label it "synthetic" or "synthetic blend" or semi-synthetic". For mass-market oils, the term "synthetic" is all about marketing.
The "boutique" synthetics (Redline, Royal Purple, and Amsoil) are generally the traditional PAO, very high-performance oils stocks, but, again, that may not be the case for every grade of oil they offer (again, legally, synthetic does not have to indicate PAO). Some (on the other forum) have stated that only Amsoil remains as the "purely synthetic" oil offering. Personally, given the performance available from $1.50/quart Motorcraft 5W20, I'm not readily seeing the added value in the "boutique" oils, unless I were racing or autocrossing a lot, where stresses and temperatures go well beyond any conditions you see on the street.
Use a good oil that's "SL/GF-3", meets the Honda and Ford standards for 5W20 oil, and use a good filter like the PureOne PL14612 from Purolator. The OEM filter is a good choice, too, and both can be had for about $5.
Ciao!
Basically, if an oil producer can formulate an oil (even from "dino" or "mineral" base stocks) with an additive package that meets high enough perfomance characteristics, the producer can label it "synthetic" or "synthetic blend" or semi-synthetic". For mass-market oils, the term "synthetic" is all about marketing.
The "boutique" synthetics (Redline, Royal Purple, and Amsoil) are generally the traditional PAO, very high-performance oils stocks, but, again, that may not be the case for every grade of oil they offer (again, legally, synthetic does not have to indicate PAO). Some (on the other forum) have stated that only Amsoil remains as the "purely synthetic" oil offering. Personally, given the performance available from $1.50/quart Motorcraft 5W20, I'm not readily seeing the added value in the "boutique" oils, unless I were racing or autocrossing a lot, where stresses and temperatures go well beyond any conditions you see on the street.
Use a good oil that's "SL/GF-3", meets the Honda and Ford standards for 5W20 oil, and use a good filter like the PureOne PL14612 from Purolator. The OEM filter is a good choice, too, and both can be had for about $5.
Ciao!
#9
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I work at BP/Amoco. And while I am not a Chemical Engineener, I take care of the computers of a few. Including the ones that specialize in lubricating oil. I brought up the question about synthetic oil in the combustion chamber and the answer I recieve is they burn clean and leave no residue and wouldn't harm the apex seals. The only thing that seemed a problem was switching from mineral base oil to synthetic. My car has 4000 mi on it and he said that wasn't too bad, but switching at 20k wouldn't be recomended.
#11
Common Sense
Since, I like synthetic oils and have used them in other high performance cars, I wanted to use the right synthetic oil in my RX-8. In Japan Idemitsu Synthetic oil is used in the RX-7 & RX-8 and in Europe, oil has to meet a higher & consistent formula standard so, the RX-8 can use the synthetic oils in Europe.
In the USA, we are a marketing garbage pit so, oils can use broader parimeters, including synthetics to compete in selling their products. Example, Amsoil is a great product, but only one of their oil lines could work for the RX-8 since, it is the only line that has API rating(important for Cat life & a hot button with Mazda) and even then it's additives are more harmful than good for the RX-8. Therefore, it is confusing for Mazda on what to recommend in the USA without liablity issues to complicate their life so, you go to aviodance as a safe parimeter.
Three synthetics in this world can work in the RX-8 and could legally win a court battle if push came to shove are: Idemitsu, Royal Purple & Redline.
The most important pieces of info on the label of the container of oil are the API Service rating and the ILSAC specification. Ensure that they are API "SL" and ILSAC "GF-3".
Additionally, why I chose Royal Purple was that it has the API "SL" and ILSAC "GF-3" rating which meets the RX-8's oil requirements and it's additives are beneifical to the seals etc. If you go to the Oil Institute website, it is a learning experience about all oils and their additives. I did my homework, research, went to FAQ-Royal Purple on rotaries, contacted Royal Purple via e-mail and got a prompt and professional response from them on my questions.
I feel comfortable using Royal Purple 5w-30. my 8 idles smooth and runs well and again, as long as the oil is API "SL" and "GF-3" which meets the oil reqirement for the RX-8, then I'm Ok with that. I change my oil every 5,000 miles(my choice) and use a K&N oil filter.
I hope that I answered any questions, if not, go the Oil Institue website or contact Racing Beat, Royal Purple or Redline.
In the USA, we are a marketing garbage pit so, oils can use broader parimeters, including synthetics to compete in selling their products. Example, Amsoil is a great product, but only one of their oil lines could work for the RX-8 since, it is the only line that has API rating(important for Cat life & a hot button with Mazda) and even then it's additives are more harmful than good for the RX-8. Therefore, it is confusing for Mazda on what to recommend in the USA without liablity issues to complicate their life so, you go to aviodance as a safe parimeter.
Three synthetics in this world can work in the RX-8 and could legally win a court battle if push came to shove are: Idemitsu, Royal Purple & Redline.
The most important pieces of info on the label of the container of oil are the API Service rating and the ILSAC specification. Ensure that they are API "SL" and ILSAC "GF-3".
Additionally, why I chose Royal Purple was that it has the API "SL" and ILSAC "GF-3" rating which meets the RX-8's oil requirements and it's additives are beneifical to the seals etc. If you go to the Oil Institute website, it is a learning experience about all oils and their additives. I did my homework, research, went to FAQ-Royal Purple on rotaries, contacted Royal Purple via e-mail and got a prompt and professional response from them on my questions.
I feel comfortable using Royal Purple 5w-30. my 8 idles smooth and runs well and again, as long as the oil is API "SL" and "GF-3" which meets the oil reqirement for the RX-8, then I'm Ok with that. I change my oil every 5,000 miles(my choice) and use a K&N oil filter.
I hope that I answered any questions, if not, go the Oil Institue website or contact Racing Beat, Royal Purple or Redline.
#12
Three synthetics in this world can work in the RX-8 and could legally win a court battle if push came to shove are: Idemitsu, Royal Purple & Redline.
The most important pieces of info on the label of the container of oil are the API Service rating and the ILSAC specification. Ensure that they are API "SL" and ILSAC "GF-3".
Why only those 3? All oils that meet the API and ILSAC specification will be fine for the RX8. That includes Castrol, and the like.
The most important pieces of info on the label of the container of oil are the API Service rating and the ILSAC specification. Ensure that they are API "SL" and ILSAC "GF-3".
Why only those 3? All oils that meet the API and ILSAC specification will be fine for the RX8. That includes Castrol, and the like.
#13
Mike Z: "Three synthetics in this world can work in the RX-8 and could legally win a court battle if push came to shove are: Idemitsu, Royal Purple & Redline."
I use Castrol Syntec Blend which is "API Service SL" and "Exceeds ILSAC GF-4/GF-3/GF-2." So are you saying they could void my warranty and win in court if I challenged them? I'm no attorney but I believe that's what you are implying.
I use Castrol Syntec Blend which is "API Service SL" and "Exceeds ILSAC GF-4/GF-3/GF-2." So are you saying they could void my warranty and win in court if I challenged them? I'm no attorney but I believe that's what you are implying.
#14
The Additives
Originally Posted by Dark8
Mike Z: "Three synthetics in this world can work in the RX-8 and could legally win a court battle if push came to shove are: Idemitsu, Royal Purple & Redline."
I use Castrol Syntec Blend which is "API Service SL" and "Exceeds ILSAC GF-4/GF-3/GF-2." So are you saying they could void my warranty and win in court if I challenged them? I'm no attorney but I believe that's what you are implying.
I use Castrol Syntec Blend which is "API Service SL" and "Exceeds ILSAC GF-4/GF-3/GF-2." So are you saying they could void my warranty and win in court if I challenged them? I'm no attorney but I believe that's what you are implying.
As I have mentioned in other replies on this issue, in the USA, we are a "marketing garbage pit" and producers of synthetic oils can blend their oils with three - four different types of additives, they can produce racing oils that are not API, SL. GF-3/4 and can have higher sulfur in them, so this scares the hell out of Mazda Corporate, so AVOIDANCE is SAFE.
Mobil 1 uses an additive that works well in big block V8's like the Corvette and Dodge Viper(which come from the factory with Mobil 1) but their additive can cause damage to the RX-8 and both Mobil and Mazda agree on this issue. Other than one company in Japan which produces a synthetic than can work in the 8, the only other companies that have a similar additive base are Redline & Royal Purple and RP has been tested on the RX-8 by Racing Beat.
I am not familar with what additive blend Castrol uses, but since Castrol is a quality product and recommended for small high reving engines, I would assume it's additive could work in the 8.
The Institue of Oil did make one thing perfectly clear, whether it is synthetic or dino, follow the manufactures recommendation on changing oil during & after warrenty. Synthetic oil contaminates just the same as dino - NO DIFFERENCE.
If you are going to use synthetic, Castrol, Redline or Royal Purple, use it for the right reason, better lubrication and protection for your RX-8. Change your oil every 5,000 miles and use a good quality oil filter. The benefits will pay in better overall performance and protection for your investment and you wouldn't have to worry about testing the legal system!!
Mike Z
Last edited by Mike Z; 11-01-2004 at 06:36 PM.
#15
I am still not sure I understand you. What additives does Amsoil put in their oil that is harmfull to my 8?
I bought a case of Amsoil xl-7500 5w20. It is API certified (sl), and has the ILSAC certification logo as well.
According to my owners manual, this oil is acceptable for my car.
As far as I know, any oil, conventional or synthetic that meets these service requirements will be ok for my 8, regardless of the additives.
All of Amsoil's other products say they meet the API specs, and look like they are certified, but if you look closely at the symbols, they actually are not certified.
After I use up my Amsoil, I will probably just use Castrol syntec. RP and Redline are hard to come by, and I dont believe they are worth the extra cost.
Pick an oil, any oil, look for the API, and ILSAC certifications, and away you go.
I bought a case of Amsoil xl-7500 5w20. It is API certified (sl), and has the ILSAC certification logo as well.
According to my owners manual, this oil is acceptable for my car.
As far as I know, any oil, conventional or synthetic that meets these service requirements will be ok for my 8, regardless of the additives.
All of Amsoil's other products say they meet the API specs, and look like they are certified, but if you look closely at the symbols, they actually are not certified.
After I use up my Amsoil, I will probably just use Castrol syntec. RP and Redline are hard to come by, and I dont believe they are worth the extra cost.
Pick an oil, any oil, look for the API, and ILSAC certifications, and away you go.
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