Renesis OIL PRESSURE Discussion with Dealer Tech
#52
The Angry Wheelchair
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From: In da woodz, lurking after you
Didn't we already go through a lot of this in the last extensive oil thread with the article? Higher pressure when measuring through the gauges is not necessarily better or means that you get more lubrication. Higher pressure will also result from using thicker oil and that is not necessarily good. We've been through this, the only pressure I see relevant to assisting the car is:
- keeping it close to the specs
- making sure it's not 5w-20 fail sauce
- monitoring it and comparing pressure overtime at the same RPM using the same and perhaps different oils
- Using the AP to bump the OMP pressure up (which is the real significant pressure issue IMO) to feed the seals more oil contrast to stock
Keep in mind this reply is mainly for the cloud surrounding the oil related to pressure comments again, not the pressure boost in the Gen 2 motors.
- keeping it close to the specs
- making sure it's not 5w-20 fail sauce
- monitoring it and comparing pressure overtime at the same RPM using the same and perhaps different oils
- Using the AP to bump the OMP pressure up (which is the real significant pressure issue IMO) to feed the seals more oil contrast to stock
Keep in mind this reply is mainly for the cloud surrounding the oil related to pressure comments again, not the pressure boost in the Gen 2 motors.
Last edited by Vlaze; 09-30-2009 at 01:34 PM.
#53
Higher pressure will also result from using thicker oil and that is not necessarily good.
This is why I would like to see specific oil data instead of looking at bottle numbers.
#56
The purpose of this thread is to talk about Why we are seeing so many Bearing failures when it is virtually non existent in earlier rotaries with similar miles, the only thing that has changes are engine oils in the past 40 years....and higher RPM.
Come to your own conclusions....MOP has nothing to do with OP.
Come to your own conclusions....MOP has nothing to do with OP.
#61
Here is another one for you Silly Americans!...
What do you think is the percentage of Engine Oil Left behind when you do a normal drain?
I will be back with the Answer after this COMMERCIAL BREAK!
What do you think is the percentage of Engine Oil Left behind when you do a normal drain?
I will be back with the Answer after this COMMERCIAL BREAK!
#62
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:thumbtwiddle:
:thumbtwiddle:
#63
#64
In Litres because that is what WE Silly Australian's use not the OLD antiquated Weights and Measures..
Series I RENESIS 6 port.
Bone Dry Engine.....6.4 litres Engine Oil to fill.
Normal Drain...........3.3 Litres, 3.5 with Oil Filter
SO You are leaving almost 50% of old dirty oil in your engine...
Series II RENESIS 6 Port.
Bone Dry Engine.......7.0 Litres Engine oil to fill.
Normal Drain..............4.2 Litres, 4.4 with Oil Filter
Slightly better ratio, but not great...
This is why I do a Double Change....Drain, Fill with New oil, run engine till Hot, Drain and Re-Fill...I use a good quality Mineral, so my cost is about the same as if I used Synthetic Oil.
Series I RENESIS 6 port.
Bone Dry Engine.....6.4 litres Engine Oil to fill.
Normal Drain...........3.3 Litres, 3.5 with Oil Filter
SO You are leaving almost 50% of old dirty oil in your engine...
Series II RENESIS 6 Port.
Bone Dry Engine.......7.0 Litres Engine oil to fill.
Normal Drain..............4.2 Litres, 4.4 with Oil Filter
Slightly better ratio, but not great...
This is why I do a Double Change....Drain, Fill with New oil, run engine till Hot, Drain and Re-Fill...I use a good quality Mineral, so my cost is about the same as if I used Synthetic Oil.
#66
In Litres because that is what WE Silly Australian's use not the OLD antiquated Weights and Measures..
Series I RENESIS 6 port.
Bone Dry Engine.....6.4 litres Engine Oil to fill.
Normal Drain...........3.3 Litres, 3.5 with Oil Filter
SO You are leaving almost 50% of old dirty oil in your engine...
Series II RENESIS 6 Port.
Bone Dry Engine.......7.0 Litres Engine oil to fill.
Normal Drain..............4.2 Litres, 4.4 with Oil Filter
Slightly better ratio, but not great...
This is why I do a Double Change....Drain, Fill with New oil, run engine till Hot, Drain and Re-Fill...I use a good quality Mineral, so my cost is about the same as if I used Synthetic Oil.
Series I RENESIS 6 port.
Bone Dry Engine.....6.4 litres Engine Oil to fill.
Normal Drain...........3.3 Litres, 3.5 with Oil Filter
SO You are leaving almost 50% of old dirty oil in your engine...
Series II RENESIS 6 Port.
Bone Dry Engine.......7.0 Litres Engine oil to fill.
Normal Drain..............4.2 Litres, 4.4 with Oil Filter
Slightly better ratio, but not great...
This is why I do a Double Change....Drain, Fill with New oil, run engine till Hot, Drain and Re-Fill...I use a good quality Mineral, so my cost is about the same as if I used Synthetic Oil.
I wouldn't mind doing a complete flush every 9-15k miles or so, but I just recently did my first oil change (@2900 miles). I may change my opinion on the flush depending on my next oil change (@~6000 miles).
#67
#68
With 1L being 1.05Q, we can assume they are basically the same for now. Where all is the oil hung up in the engine? I get ~4.2q(L) out every change, and being ~half a quart low on the dipstick, but then I jack up each side for the oil coolers. So if I topped off before draining, I would be draining almost 5Q(L)....where is the rest?
^noone clicks links any more. Gotta be more stealthy than that
^noone clicks links any more. Gotta be more stealthy than that
#69
#71
With 1L being 1.05Q, we can assume they are basically the same for now. Where all is the oil hung up in the engine? I get ~4.2q(L) out every change, and being ~half a quart low on the dipstick, but then I jack up each side for the oil coolers. So if I topped off before draining, I would be draining almost 5Q(L)....where is the rest?
^noone clicks links any more. Gotta be more stealthy than that
^noone clicks links any more. Gotta be more stealthy than that
Where is the oil??, is lying in the eccentric shaft (not much), in the oil pump, not much, in the Oil Coolers (2) and lines...MUCH.
#73
Yep, I am not that keen on 0W oils but RP is a good product, so is Idemitsu...u are fine.
I forgot to add the issues can also be a too long a period in engine oil changes, low level of engine oil and no baffles in the sump pan, which are being installed on the re-man engines in the US.
I forgot to add the issues can also be a too long a period in engine oil changes, low level of engine oil and no baffles in the sump pan, which are being installed on the re-man engines in the US.
I am not exactly sure of where they 'reference' this value from, I am going by what the Factory Services Highlights say..
IMO...I think it is an area or location that a reference pressure is read, but, where do they read it?, at the bearings , half way down the eccentric shaft, if any of this is possible, or is it an AVERAGE of a few areas?
So in the case of your S1 Renny...you have..
OP Reference Value @3000 RPM 100c of 50.8 PSI
OP at Oil PUMP Relief Valve Opening Pressure 64-71 PSI
OP at Oil Filter By Pass 11.4 - 17.1 PSI
Sorry, no more info there.
IMO...I think it is an area or location that a reference pressure is read, but, where do they read it?, at the bearings , half way down the eccentric shaft, if any of this is possible, or is it an AVERAGE of a few areas?
So in the case of your S1 Renny...you have..
OP Reference Value @3000 RPM 100c of 50.8 PSI
OP at Oil PUMP Relief Valve Opening Pressure 64-71 PSI
OP at Oil Filter By Pass 11.4 - 17.1 PSI
Sorry, no more info there.
Regards.
Last edited by secret8gent; 09-30-2009 at 04:30 PM. Reason: for s1 engines
#75
You don't think the oil passages, bearing clearances, etc. haven't changed in 38 years? :rhetoricalquestion: