Renesis OIL PRESSURE Discussion with Dealer Tech
#1001
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#1002
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as far as i am concerned ---no apologies needed Flash---welcome all discussion. Mazmart as a company is much more through toward a product before it is released than I will ever be. Once you buy a product from them you can be assured that all aspects of that product has been fully researched and it is safe to use.
I have probably put pressure (no pun intended) on Paul by posting my findings this soon. If I did I hope he will --in time forgive me.
The total evaluation is not complete, but the findings so far sure look good to me.
Hurry up 9 K!!!
OD
I have probably put pressure (no pun intended) on Paul by posting my findings this soon. If I did I hope he will --in time forgive me.
The total evaluation is not complete, but the findings so far sure look good to me.
Hurry up 9 K!!!
OD
#1003
Nature vs. Nurture
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With the oil pan off, is there another mod that should be done at the same time? (like increasing baffles in the pan?)
OD, when you say this is the #1 mod, is that above anything for the engine when used at the track? sohn, coils, fuel pump, water pump, thermostat, radiator? I do only about 2 weekends a year, but the tracks have high speed straights and corners (Road America and Brainerd - two 100mph+ corners)
OD, when you say this is the #1 mod, is that above anything for the engine when used at the track? sohn, coils, fuel pump, water pump, thermostat, radiator? I do only about 2 weekends a year, but the tracks have high speed straights and corners (Road America and Brainerd - two 100mph+ corners)
#1005
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true that Dan.
Yes i do mean this would be the very 1st mod I would do to an RX8, but it would be even better to do the cooling mods at the same time.
Actually If you live in a climate that sees ambient temps above 90F -- I would save up to do both, this and coolant mods--- at the same time.
Ash had some news about the difference between some older model oil pan baffles and the newer models.
OD
Yes i do mean this would be the very 1st mod I would do to an RX8, but it would be even better to do the cooling mods at the same time.
Actually If you live in a climate that sees ambient temps above 90F -- I would save up to do both, this and coolant mods--- at the same time.
Ash had some news about the difference between some older model oil pan baffles and the newer models.
OD
#1006
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iTrader: (46)
as far as i am concerned ---no apologies needed Flash---welcome all discussion. Mazmart as a company is much more through toward a product before it is released than I will ever be. Once you buy a product from them you can be assured that all aspects of that product has been fully researched and it is safe to use.
I have probably put pressure (no pun intended) on Paul by posting my findings this soon. If I did I hope he will --in time forgive me.
The total evaluation is not complete, but the findings so far sure look good to me.
Hurry up 9 K!!!
OD
I have probably put pressure (no pun intended) on Paul by posting my findings this soon. If I did I hope he will --in time forgive me.
The total evaluation is not complete, but the findings so far sure look good to me.
Hurry up 9 K!!!
OD
#1007
Nature vs. Nurture
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I am thinking about the oil pressure change more for oil supply or lubrication. i will be winding it out, pulling in the 100+ range trying to continue to accelerate. For example 4th gear reaching up to 115 takes longer than reaching redline in 3rd because of the aerodynamic drag. This is approaching 2-3 corners at each track.
Last edited by ganseg; 12-17-2009 at 09:30 PM.
#1009
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OD, do you have comparison times of your oil coming up to full temperature? My current commute, unlike the one I had last year, is a short hop to the train station, an 8-10 minute trip. With the cold temperatures (it's 13F/-10.556C out right now) I'd been looking for the renesis equivalent of the 190F thermostat that was optional for the RX-7, for use during Winter in order to try to get the oil temperatures up within that short time (apparently such a thermostat just doesn't exist). I am concerned that the cold oil may be forcing the bypass open in the oil filter, allowing all kinds of unfiltered crud through my engine.
I realise this is tangential to the concerns this kit was developed to address; but I am hoping that it might also address this concern as a happy side effect.
I realise this is tangential to the concerns this kit was developed to address; but I am hoping that it might also address this concern as a happy side effect.
#1010
Ayrton Senna Forever
So it partly verifies that the more flow the more oil temp you get. Nice!
Maybe the more oil spray to the rotor's inner wall increases the oil temp so much.
#1011
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ayrton---i am cautiously thinking that--wish i could prove that--but i dont even know a way in which that could be done outside a real lab.
Short drives are a killer alright longpath --those temps and that short of a drive a block heater may help and i would block off both oil coolers! Just a thin sheet of plastic or plywood painted black would do that?
Olddragger
Short drives are a killer alright longpath --those temps and that short of a drive a block heater may help and i would block off both oil coolers! Just a thin sheet of plastic or plywood painted black would do that?
Olddragger
#1012
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Yes getting the oil temp up in this car when it is cold is difficult. Even with my improvement over the factory system I still think it takes too long. When I bought the hoses they had a type of sleeve you could buy to insulate and protect the hose. I wish I had bought that stuff.
#1013
Ayrton Senna Forever
ayrton---i am cautiously thinking that--wish i could prove that--but i dont even know a way in which that could be done outside a real lab.
Short drives are a killer alright longpath --those temps and that short of a drive a block heater may help and i would block off both oil coolers! Just a thin sheet of plastic or plywood painted black would do that?
Olddragger
Short drives are a killer alright longpath --those temps and that short of a drive a block heater may help and i would block off both oil coolers! Just a thin sheet of plastic or plywood painted black would do that?
Olddragger
So the "rotors" are warming the oil earlier and quicker, than in the original S1 system.
Last edited by ayrton012; 12-18-2009 at 10:02 AM. Reason: earlier and quicker
#1014
OD, one more thought got on my mind. You said that your oil gets warm faster after startup with this higher pressure. Maybe your pressure is so high that the e-shaft pellet's bypass drill can't drain so much oil (decreasing the pressure in the e-shaft), that pressure decreasing is needed to avoid the oil spray on the rotor's back under 60 Celsius.
So the "rotors" are warming the oil earlier and quicker, than in the original S1 system.
So the "rotors" are warming the oil earlier and quicker, than in the original S1 system.
OD is running a Mazmart RE-medy built engine. All of our engines have modded front thermo pellets. It will never fail and bypass. This causes the opposite reaction in that it could cause oil temps to take a little longer to warm.
Paul.
#1016
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Keep in mind too that the E-Shaft Thermal Pellets and Springs are all the same for ALL series RX-7's and RX-8's by Mazda Part Number...if your engine has not been Pellet Modded...that is.., so the standard FD RX-7 and S2 RX-8 with the "higher" Oil Pressure should not ( I hope) have an Oil Temp issue because of the higher OP or flow.
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#1022
#1025
Ayrton Senna Forever
Thanks, but doesn't the rotor's get hot earlier then the oil? So the oil which are draining back to the pan from the hot rotor's inside is warming quicker. Is it false?