Renesis OIL PRESSURE Discussion with Dealer Tech
01-17-2010, 03:02 PM
#1178
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
This Dealer sell them for $6.56. N3R1-14-302
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...&siteid=214264
BTW: If you do not own an S2 and or have not had the S1 Oil Pressure Mod done, I really do not recommend the S2 filter.
If you want a larger filter stick with the Mobil M1-110 (for S1 Only).
Go Genuine ONLY for S2... N3R1-14-302
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...&siteid=214264
BTW: If you do not own an S2 and or have not had the S1 Oil Pressure Mod done, I really do not recommend the S2 filter.
If you want a larger filter stick with the Mobil M1-110 (for S1 Only).
Go Genuine ONLY for S2... N3R1-14-302
01-17-2010, 09:18 PM
#1179
is looking for his torque
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 841
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This Dealer sell them for $6.56. N3R1-14-302
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...&siteid=214264
BTW: If you do not own an S2 and or have not had the S1 Oil Pressure Mod done, I really do not recommend the S2 filter.
If you want a larger filter stick with the Mobil M1-110 (for S1 Only).
Go Genuine ONLY for S2... N3R1-14-302
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...&siteid=214264
BTW: If you do not own an S2 and or have not had the S1 Oil Pressure Mod done, I really do not recommend the S2 filter.
If you want a larger filter stick with the Mobil M1-110 (for S1 Only).
Go Genuine ONLY for S2... N3R1-14-302
01-18-2010, 11:13 AM
#1180
My Install of the REmedy OP Mod
Okay, finally got around to it. A short summary is that it's probably not something for someone with limited mechanical experience. It's open-heart surgery on your engine with some big potential downsides. IMHO, you can't do this safely in your driveway, or with a pair of pliars and an adjustable wrench.
The scene: mid 1960's ranch house with attached, insulated, and heatable 2-car garage. Outside temps: ~30 deg F (-1 C), Inside: ~ 50 F (10 C). Extensive collection of tools (minus one important one), kept warm in the basement until use.
The patient: 2006 RX-8 GT, 12,300 miles. When I bought it in July 09, the previous gearhead millionaire owner had just changed the oil (looked clean on the dipstick) with 10w-40. In order to get on the warranty record, I had the oil changed at the dealer less than 500 miles ago. They of course used 5w-20. Since you're only draining about 60% of the oil, the real viscosity is somewhere between.
The operation (and tips):
1) The car had not been driven for a couple of months due to snow and ice. I warmed it thoroughly, and took what may be a fairly unique data point (more on that in a later post).
2) Use ramps, jacks, and jackstands to get the front of the car up as high as possible. You're gonna spend a lot of time under there, plus you'll need some long-handle wrenches.
3) Put a layer of cardboard (for comfort) followed by lots of newspapers under the oil pan area. It's gonna get messy.
4) Find and thoroughly clean an oil catch pan.
5) Clean off the bottom of the oil pan on the car.
6) Drain the oil as usual.
7) Watch football on TV for a couple of hours. Oil dripping off the bottom of the engine internals now, is oil that doesn't drip on your head later.
8) Cover and set aside the oil catch pan.
9) Replace the drain plug and tighten. Remove the sensor wire opposite the oil drain plug.
10) Remove the bolts holding the oil pan on. Don't fret, it's not going to fall.
11) Ideally, you have the Mazda gasket separator tool and ideally this tool works the way it's supposed to. For the rest of us, and assuming your engine was gooped together by the same maniac as mine was, getting the pan unglued from the engine is a real PIA.
12) The goal is to cut the silicone gasket sealer aka "glue" on one side of the pan. The problem is the gap is tiny, the force you need to do it is large, and there is little space around the pan to work in. What seemed to work best centered on a point on the driver's side, about on the center of the edge, below where the grounding strap attaches to the engine. There there is an aluminum edge to serve as a fulcrum. Using a DULL wood chisel and hammer I was able to bend the lip of the oil pan down enough to start cutting into the glue with an exacto knife. Be Careful! First you are using a lot of force on a sharp instrument; a slip with body parts in the way will result in a trip to the emergency room. Second, the aluminum is very soft; it is easy to damage the aluminum surface as a sharp cutter will dig in. As the extent of your cutting increases, it will be slightly easier. At some point, I could get a very small pry bar with a 90 deg head, sold as a trim nail puller, inserted near the "fulcrum" where the oil pan lip is bend down. This let me drive the bar along the edge of the pan a little, allowing enough of a gap to get a small pocket knife blade in to cut the glue all the way across the surface. Drive/cut/drive/cut. When you are able to free that whole side of the pan, plus and inch or so around the corner, then that side of the pan can be pried off. Only took me an hour to get to that point.
13) There's still a fair amount of oil in the pan, so lower it flat to avoid the worst of the mess.
14) Take the pan, tilt it into a catch can (one for disposal), eat lunch.
15) Put newspapers on your workbench and clean up the pan. Wipe up the worst of the oil. Okay, now to clean the old silicone off the mating surface. What I found to work best is a sharp wood chisel. Try to avoid scratches. Some are inevitable, but if they are "along" the mating surface and not "across" the mating surface, it's not too bad. Clean the glue out of the bolt holes with a pocket knife or perhaps a right-sized drill bit.
16) In spite of your best efforts, chunks of silicone will fall under the baffles where you can't get to them. You'll have to pull off the 10mm-socket nuts and remove the baffles. When you have the mating surface as clean as you can get it "dry". Go outside and use "brake parts cleaner" or MEK if you have it and degrease the surface. It should leave a kindof grey surface ... if it's shiny, it's still oily.
17) Replace the baffles. Remember torque specs are usually given as "dry" and the studs are oily. The spec here is ~70-110 in*lbs, so I torqued them to about 60 in*lb - it'll still seem quite a lot for such small studs. This takes a 1/4" drive torque wrench to do accurately which isn't so common in the average toolbox, but you really don't want a nut to be sucked up by the oil pump.
18) Now, back under the car, clean up the mating surface on the engine side. Again, I found the sharp wood chisel to do the best job, with a little help from a pocketknife, but be darn careful with it. The aluminum is very soft, get just the right angle to scrape off the old silicone, but not dig into the aluminum. Use a light touch. Another caution: you don't want to dig into the sealant between the aluminum and iron "sandwich". Another caution. In a crappy bit of engineering, the back of the oil pan serves as part of an o-ring seal to the bell housing. It's very easy to cut that o-ring while cleaning off the old silicone. There's a surprising amount of it gushed out on the inside of the mating surface to clean up as well.
19) Now the fun part. Clean up the clumps of silicone that have fallen around (fresh newspapers) - think operating room. Next steps must be clean clean clean. Remove the nut holding in the front bypass regulator. Be prepared for the blob of oil that falls out with it. The piston might take a minute to fall out, but try not to get it the slightest bit dirty. Put the magic washers between the nut and the spring, put the piston on top, and insert the stack back in. I couldn't find a torque spec, but it gets tightened pretty hard.
20) The rear pressure regulator is not so easy. You'll need either an appropriately sized socket or box end wrench. It's a big socket and will only come with a 1/2" drive, so you have to use a breaker bar since there's no space for a big ratchet. It's also torqued in like you wouldn't believe. I had to reach in from the side of the car with my leg to get enough force to break it loose. Once it's loose it comes off by hand easily. Again be prepared for the big blob of oil that comes out.
21) I found the REmedy replacement to be a bit finicky to get threaded right, perhaps the taper at the end of the thread wasn't quite right. (Still it's a bargain at $55). It should thread in entirely by hand, so don't start it cross threaded. When it's fully seated by hand tighten the heck out of it with your choice of wrench. There's no room to get a torque wrench in there, even if one knows what the spec is.
22) Clean the mating surface on the engine with "brake parts cleaner" or MEK.
23) Get everything ready to quickly mount the oil pan when it's ready. According to the instructions, you have only 5 minutes to do this after the new silicone bead is applied.
24) I prefer Permatex High Temperature RTV, YMMV. It costs $4 for 3 ounces which is cheap. DO NOT USE some old tube of whatever you have lying around somewhere.
25) Run a continuous bead of RTV along the mating surface of the oil pan, curving at the bolt holes to the inside edge. Take a quick trip under the car and put a bit of it on the top two edges of the bell-housing o-ring. This is optional, but that seal looks questionable to me.
26) Under the car, hold the oil pan in place and get a couple of bolts started. Try not to slide it around very much, otherwise you get the RTV into the bolt holes which you definitely don't want. (Get enough in there and you can crack the engine "block" with the hydraulic pressure created when the bolts are tightened.
27) Follow the instructions from Permatex! Insert all the bolts and LIGHTLY tighten. I used a 10mm socket on a small "screwdriver" extension - not a ratchet handle.
28) Go watch football for an hour. The silicone hardens when it absorbs water from the air. It will "skin over" rather quickly, but the sorta loose fit lets the water work its way into the joint. Since the air was cool but dry (heat in winter) I left it for 1.5 hours.
29) Torque the bolts. Hook up pan sensor. Clean up mess.
30) WAIT TWO DAYS. It says 24 hours in the instructions, except when it's cold or dry. My garage is about 40 degF when closed up, so I'm waiting two days. In my previous experiences with joints like this, you will get a fragile seal every time if you don't give it a proper curing time. The edges exposed directly to air will look ok, but the stuff in the middle will be useless. (I don't see how a 1 day group install is gonna give the best results, IMHO).
31) Refill with old oil, run car until warm, drain and put in fresh oil and filter. If you aren't as cheap as me, put in new oil/filter, run until warm, then change oil and filter. The odds of having some left over crap in the oil system are high, so run it, filter the crap out, then change both.
So ... certainly a doable project, but one that can really mess things up for the unskilled or unlucky.
(I was pleased that everything I saw when things were apart were consistent with a new engine.)
The scene: mid 1960's ranch house with attached, insulated, and heatable 2-car garage. Outside temps: ~30 deg F (-1 C), Inside: ~ 50 F (10 C). Extensive collection of tools (minus one important one), kept warm in the basement until use.
The patient: 2006 RX-8 GT, 12,300 miles. When I bought it in July 09, the previous gearhead millionaire owner had just changed the oil (looked clean on the dipstick) with 10w-40. In order to get on the warranty record, I had the oil changed at the dealer less than 500 miles ago. They of course used 5w-20. Since you're only draining about 60% of the oil, the real viscosity is somewhere between.
The operation (and tips):
1) The car had not been driven for a couple of months due to snow and ice. I warmed it thoroughly, and took what may be a fairly unique data point (more on that in a later post).
2) Use ramps, jacks, and jackstands to get the front of the car up as high as possible. You're gonna spend a lot of time under there, plus you'll need some long-handle wrenches.
3) Put a layer of cardboard (for comfort) followed by lots of newspapers under the oil pan area. It's gonna get messy.
4) Find and thoroughly clean an oil catch pan.
5) Clean off the bottom of the oil pan on the car.
6) Drain the oil as usual.
7) Watch football on TV for a couple of hours. Oil dripping off the bottom of the engine internals now, is oil that doesn't drip on your head later.
8) Cover and set aside the oil catch pan.
9) Replace the drain plug and tighten. Remove the sensor wire opposite the oil drain plug.
10) Remove the bolts holding the oil pan on. Don't fret, it's not going to fall.
11) Ideally, you have the Mazda gasket separator tool and ideally this tool works the way it's supposed to. For the rest of us, and assuming your engine was gooped together by the same maniac as mine was, getting the pan unglued from the engine is a real PIA.
12) The goal is to cut the silicone gasket sealer aka "glue" on one side of the pan. The problem is the gap is tiny, the force you need to do it is large, and there is little space around the pan to work in. What seemed to work best centered on a point on the driver's side, about on the center of the edge, below where the grounding strap attaches to the engine. There there is an aluminum edge to serve as a fulcrum. Using a DULL wood chisel and hammer I was able to bend the lip of the oil pan down enough to start cutting into the glue with an exacto knife. Be Careful! First you are using a lot of force on a sharp instrument; a slip with body parts in the way will result in a trip to the emergency room. Second, the aluminum is very soft; it is easy to damage the aluminum surface as a sharp cutter will dig in. As the extent of your cutting increases, it will be slightly easier. At some point, I could get a very small pry bar with a 90 deg head, sold as a trim nail puller, inserted near the "fulcrum" where the oil pan lip is bend down. This let me drive the bar along the edge of the pan a little, allowing enough of a gap to get a small pocket knife blade in to cut the glue all the way across the surface. Drive/cut/drive/cut. When you are able to free that whole side of the pan, plus and inch or so around the corner, then that side of the pan can be pried off. Only took me an hour to get to that point.
13) There's still a fair amount of oil in the pan, so lower it flat to avoid the worst of the mess.
14) Take the pan, tilt it into a catch can (one for disposal), eat lunch.
15) Put newspapers on your workbench and clean up the pan. Wipe up the worst of the oil. Okay, now to clean the old silicone off the mating surface. What I found to work best is a sharp wood chisel. Try to avoid scratches. Some are inevitable, but if they are "along" the mating surface and not "across" the mating surface, it's not too bad. Clean the glue out of the bolt holes with a pocket knife or perhaps a right-sized drill bit.
16) In spite of your best efforts, chunks of silicone will fall under the baffles where you can't get to them. You'll have to pull off the 10mm-socket nuts and remove the baffles. When you have the mating surface as clean as you can get it "dry". Go outside and use "brake parts cleaner" or MEK if you have it and degrease the surface. It should leave a kindof grey surface ... if it's shiny, it's still oily.
17) Replace the baffles. Remember torque specs are usually given as "dry" and the studs are oily. The spec here is ~70-110 in*lbs, so I torqued them to about 60 in*lb - it'll still seem quite a lot for such small studs. This takes a 1/4" drive torque wrench to do accurately which isn't so common in the average toolbox, but you really don't want a nut to be sucked up by the oil pump.
18) Now, back under the car, clean up the mating surface on the engine side. Again, I found the sharp wood chisel to do the best job, with a little help from a pocketknife, but be darn careful with it. The aluminum is very soft, get just the right angle to scrape off the old silicone, but not dig into the aluminum. Use a light touch. Another caution: you don't want to dig into the sealant between the aluminum and iron "sandwich". Another caution. In a crappy bit of engineering, the back of the oil pan serves as part of an o-ring seal to the bell housing. It's very easy to cut that o-ring while cleaning off the old silicone. There's a surprising amount of it gushed out on the inside of the mating surface to clean up as well.
19) Now the fun part. Clean up the clumps of silicone that have fallen around (fresh newspapers) - think operating room. Next steps must be clean clean clean. Remove the nut holding in the front bypass regulator. Be prepared for the blob of oil that falls out with it. The piston might take a minute to fall out, but try not to get it the slightest bit dirty. Put the magic washers between the nut and the spring, put the piston on top, and insert the stack back in. I couldn't find a torque spec, but it gets tightened pretty hard.
20) The rear pressure regulator is not so easy. You'll need either an appropriately sized socket or box end wrench. It's a big socket and will only come with a 1/2" drive, so you have to use a breaker bar since there's no space for a big ratchet. It's also torqued in like you wouldn't believe. I had to reach in from the side of the car with my leg to get enough force to break it loose. Once it's loose it comes off by hand easily. Again be prepared for the big blob of oil that comes out.
21) I found the REmedy replacement to be a bit finicky to get threaded right, perhaps the taper at the end of the thread wasn't quite right. (Still it's a bargain at $55). It should thread in entirely by hand, so don't start it cross threaded. When it's fully seated by hand tighten the heck out of it with your choice of wrench. There's no room to get a torque wrench in there, even if one knows what the spec is.
22) Clean the mating surface on the engine with "brake parts cleaner" or MEK.
23) Get everything ready to quickly mount the oil pan when it's ready. According to the instructions, you have only 5 minutes to do this after the new silicone bead is applied.
24) I prefer Permatex High Temperature RTV, YMMV. It costs $4 for 3 ounces which is cheap. DO NOT USE some old tube of whatever you have lying around somewhere.
25) Run a continuous bead of RTV along the mating surface of the oil pan, curving at the bolt holes to the inside edge. Take a quick trip under the car and put a bit of it on the top two edges of the bell-housing o-ring. This is optional, but that seal looks questionable to me.
26) Under the car, hold the oil pan in place and get a couple of bolts started. Try not to slide it around very much, otherwise you get the RTV into the bolt holes which you definitely don't want. (Get enough in there and you can crack the engine "block" with the hydraulic pressure created when the bolts are tightened.
27) Follow the instructions from Permatex! Insert all the bolts and LIGHTLY tighten. I used a 10mm socket on a small "screwdriver" extension - not a ratchet handle.
28) Go watch football for an hour. The silicone hardens when it absorbs water from the air. It will "skin over" rather quickly, but the sorta loose fit lets the water work its way into the joint. Since the air was cool but dry (heat in winter) I left it for 1.5 hours.
29) Torque the bolts. Hook up pan sensor. Clean up mess.
30) WAIT TWO DAYS. It says 24 hours in the instructions, except when it's cold or dry. My garage is about 40 degF when closed up, so I'm waiting two days. In my previous experiences with joints like this, you will get a fragile seal every time if you don't give it a proper curing time. The edges exposed directly to air will look ok, but the stuff in the middle will be useless. (I don't see how a 1 day group install is gonna give the best results, IMHO).
31) Refill with old oil, run car until warm, drain and put in fresh oil and filter. If you aren't as cheap as me, put in new oil/filter, run until warm, then change oil and filter. The odds of having some left over crap in the oil system are high, so run it, filter the crap out, then change both.
So ... certainly a doable project, but one that can really mess things up for the unskilled or unlucky.
(I was pleased that everything I saw when things were apart were consistent with a new engine.)
Last edited by HiFlite999; 01-18-2010 at 11:18 AM.
01-18-2010, 11:41 AM
#1181
Huh?
Took an hr to get the oil pan off?
Hyflite---appreciate your throughness and detail to the job. Took your time and that is good. It is a learning oppitunity. Liked how you observed that rear seal.
I do disagree that it takes a long time to install this part. You are correct Sir in saying that the correct tools are needed. It always takes longer if you dont have them. The size of the rear bypass is a 24 mm (or 23mm cant remember) and mine wasnt that tight at all. Of course i used a pull bar (doesnt have that big rachet head) and it came right out.
You are correct again dude in that you really need to be careful with the oil pan. I used a plastic puddy knife after I got it broke aloose a little. No way that plastic knife can score the aluminum.
To break the oil pan aloose, i also used that point you speak off. I inserted a very small screwdriver and pried down a little then took a second small screwdriver and went further down the pan and inserted it and so on. Took me maybe 4 minutes or so?
You dont have to clean the block or pan contact lines with anything other than denatured alcohol. And then I used for my silicone a 3 M product that comes in an aerosal can and its black. 10 minutes of drying is good enough. I have used this stuff on omp's, thermostat housings etc without any problems at all.
I can install this mod in an hour tops after the car is up on ramps.
I am not in any compition now Sir, I just dont want others to get the impression that this is a long and hard mod to install.
It probaly takes ME a LOT LONGER to get out of bed in the mornings than it does you!
OD
Took an hr to get the oil pan off?
Hyflite---appreciate your throughness and detail to the job. Took your time and that is good. It is a learning oppitunity. Liked how you observed that rear seal.
I do disagree that it takes a long time to install this part. You are correct Sir in saying that the correct tools are needed. It always takes longer if you dont have them. The size of the rear bypass is a 24 mm (or 23mm cant remember) and mine wasnt that tight at all. Of course i used a pull bar (doesnt have that big rachet head) and it came right out.
You are correct again dude in that you really need to be careful with the oil pan. I used a plastic puddy knife after I got it broke aloose a little. No way that plastic knife can score the aluminum.
To break the oil pan aloose, i also used that point you speak off. I inserted a very small screwdriver and pried down a little then took a second small screwdriver and went further down the pan and inserted it and so on. Took me maybe 4 minutes or so?
You dont have to clean the block or pan contact lines with anything other than denatured alcohol. And then I used for my silicone a 3 M product that comes in an aerosal can and its black. 10 minutes of drying is good enough. I have used this stuff on omp's, thermostat housings etc without any problems at all.
I can install this mod in an hour tops after the car is up on ramps.
I am not in any compition now Sir, I just dont want others to get the impression that this is a long and hard mod to install.
It probaly takes ME a LOT LONGER to get out of bed in the mornings than it does you!
OD
01-18-2010, 12:19 PM
#1183
Huh?
Took an hr to get the oil pan off?
Hyflite---appreciate your throughness and detail to the job. Took your time and that is good. It is a learning oppitunity. Liked how you observed that rear seal.
I do disagree that it takes a long time to install this part. You are correct Sir in saying that the correct tools are needed. It always takes longer if you dont have them. The size of the rear bypass is a 24 mm (or 23mm cant remember) and mine wasnt that tight at all. Of course i used a pull bar (doesnt have that big rachet head) and it came right out.
You are correct again dude in that you really need to be careful with the oil pan. I used a plastic puddy knife after I got it broke aloose a little. No way that plastic knife can score the aluminum.
To break the oil pan aloose, i also used that point you speak off. I inserted a very small screwdriver and pried down a little then took a second small screwdriver and went further down the pan and inserted it and so on. Took me maybe 4 minutes or so?
You dont have to clean the block or pan contact lines with anything other than denatured alcohol. And then I used for my silicone a 3 M product that comes in an aerosal can and its black. 10 minutes of drying is good enough. I have used this stuff on omp's, thermostat housings etc without any problems at all.
I can install this mod in an hour tops after the car is up on ramps.
I am not in any compition now Sir, I just dont want others to get the impression that this is a long and hard mod to install.
It probaly takes ME a LOT LONGER to get out of bed in the mornings than it does you!
OD
Took an hr to get the oil pan off?
Hyflite---appreciate your throughness and detail to the job. Took your time and that is good. It is a learning oppitunity. Liked how you observed that rear seal.
I do disagree that it takes a long time to install this part. You are correct Sir in saying that the correct tools are needed. It always takes longer if you dont have them. The size of the rear bypass is a 24 mm (or 23mm cant remember) and mine wasnt that tight at all. Of course i used a pull bar (doesnt have that big rachet head) and it came right out.
You are correct again dude in that you really need to be careful with the oil pan. I used a plastic puddy knife after I got it broke aloose a little. No way that plastic knife can score the aluminum.
To break the oil pan aloose, i also used that point you speak off. I inserted a very small screwdriver and pried down a little then took a second small screwdriver and went further down the pan and inserted it and so on. Took me maybe 4 minutes or so?
You dont have to clean the block or pan contact lines with anything other than denatured alcohol. And then I used for my silicone a 3 M product that comes in an aerosal can and its black. 10 minutes of drying is good enough. I have used this stuff on omp's, thermostat housings etc without any problems at all.
I can install this mod in an hour tops after the car is up on ramps.
I am not in any compition now Sir, I just dont want others to get the impression that this is a long and hard mod to install.
It probaly takes ME a LOT LONGER to get out of bed in the mornings than it does you!
OD
I'll admit I'm a bit obsessive at times and if it's one thing I really hate is doing the same job twice, especially if I messed something up, so I tend to be extra careful. (The day before, I put a rebuilt starter from Autozone on the Toyota - and the rebuilt unit is bad (aaargh) - especially irritating when it's bloody cold outside.) I wasn't aware of the 3M product, I'll look for it next time.
01-18-2010, 01:05 PM
#1184
is looking for his torque
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 841
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nice write up, thanks for that, will be reading that when i do mine.
just a tip, works for me and friends, whenever removing any pan on underside of car sealed with anything (transmission, oil) once all bolt are off, by the way it requires 2 people or just one careful worker, grab mallet, apply force to pan upwards (pushing to car so it doesnt wack anything, or shoot off) and just start hammering away. got it off in 3 good hits with my dads rubber mallet.
just a tip, works for me and friends, whenever removing any pan on underside of car sealed with anything (transmission, oil) once all bolt are off, by the way it requires 2 people or just one careful worker, grab mallet, apply force to pan upwards (pushing to car so it doesnt wack anything, or shoot off) and just start hammering away. got it off in 3 good hits with my dads rubber mallet.
01-18-2010, 02:30 PM
#1185
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
Great write up guys...Suggest you make a DIY Thread...what do you think??
01-20-2010, 11:50 AM
#1186
HiFlite---just your luck to get a stubborn one isnt it?! Lol Been there done that
and you are again correct--it is much better to do it correctly the 1st time. Little things taken for granted or assumed can come back to bite ya. We have all said after the whatever job was done---i have one bolt left over--where the heck does this go----oh well. Nothing like letting a friend tighen up you slave cylinder bolts and then fine out he didnt stug them down --then while you are driving the clutch goes to the floor!
OD
and you are again correct--it is much better to do it correctly the 1st time. Little things taken for granted or assumed can come back to bite ya. We have all said after the whatever job was done---i have one bolt left over--where the heck does this go----oh well. Nothing like letting a friend tighen up you slave cylinder bolts and then fine out he didnt stug them down --then while you are driving the clutch goes to the floor!OD
01-20-2010, 12:38 PM
#1187
The worst is pouring in 4 qts of new oil in after an oil change - with the drain plug still out! Doh!!
As far as a DIY is concerned, sure. Perhaps the guys doing the group install the 28th can flesh it out with some pics and mod my text as needed. How 'bout it guys?
As far as a DIY is concerned, sure. Perhaps the guys doing the group install the 28th can flesh it out with some pics and mod my text as needed. How 'bout it guys?
01-23-2010, 12:07 PM
#1188
Bad Luck Continues ....
Ok, so I wanted to do a before/after on the op mod. I started with a 500 mile old oil change from the Mazda dealer, presumably the 5W/20. The previous owner used 10W/40, so the mixed viscosity, considering about 1/3 of the oil remains in the system was something like 7W/27 ... . The very same oil and filter were used for both runs. The car was run in my garage between idle and 3000 rpm to warm things up in a reasonable time:
Stock OP system:
Water Temp = 208F; Oil Temp = 203F; Air Temp = 37F
Pressure @ 900 rpm = 17 psi
Pressure @ 3000 rpm = 53 psi
REmedy OP system:
Water Temp = 208F; Oil Temp = 203F; Air Temp = 46F
Pressure @ 900 rpm = 17 psi
Pressure @ 3000 rpm = 57 psi
In other words hardly any measurable change. (???) I did notice in the modified case, that the oil temp came up before the water, leading by about 20F until 170F when the oil temp rise slowed and the water temp passed it, then both rose to the final value.
I was also surprised that I could get to these temps at all. When driving, the water temp seldom went above 170F after the Remedy water pump and thermostat mod. I'm suspecting the thermostat is stuck, but I have to wait until I can drive around to be sure.
Speaking of driving around; I apparently killed my car. The thing was idling badly and very hard to keep at any steady rpm, though it smoothed out after a while. In a moment of brilliance, and dimly remembering some discussions about it, I did the "20 steps on the brake" dance with the ignition on but the car not running. I shut off the ignition, then tried to start the car. NOTHING. The starter does not even attempt a start. In a thread search, I have not yet found anyone mentioning this happening. What did I do wrong (besides getting out of bed this morning)? HELP!
Stock OP system:
Water Temp = 208F; Oil Temp = 203F; Air Temp = 37F
Pressure @ 900 rpm = 17 psi
Pressure @ 3000 rpm = 53 psi
REmedy OP system:
Water Temp = 208F; Oil Temp = 203F; Air Temp = 46F
Pressure @ 900 rpm = 17 psi
Pressure @ 3000 rpm = 57 psi
In other words hardly any measurable change. (???) I did notice in the modified case, that the oil temp came up before the water, leading by about 20F until 170F when the oil temp rise slowed and the water temp passed it, then both rose to the final value.
I was also surprised that I could get to these temps at all. When driving, the water temp seldom went above 170F after the Remedy water pump and thermostat mod. I'm suspecting the thermostat is stuck, but I have to wait until I can drive around to be sure.
Speaking of driving around; I apparently killed my car. The thing was idling badly and very hard to keep at any steady rpm, though it smoothed out after a while. In a moment of brilliance, and dimly remembering some discussions about it, I did the "20 steps on the brake" dance with the ignition on but the car not running. I shut off the ignition, then tried to start the car. NOTHING. The starter does not even attempt a start. In a thread search, I have not yet found anyone mentioning this happening. What did I do wrong (besides getting out of bed this morning)? HELP!
01-23-2010, 12:14 PM
#1189
I was reading in another topic that the S2 has some kind of inside the pan magnet for the accumulation of metal shavings that would otherwise pollute the oil; but even though this was also in various model RX-7s, it was omitted from the S1. Since the oil pan has to be dropped to install the REmedy OP mod, it seems like as good a time as any to also install the magnet; but I don't know if the magnet is integral with the pan, or a separate part. Can someone with an S2 or someone familiar with the part differences please chime in?
01-23-2010, 04:33 PM
#1191
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
Ah..no Dan..
Mazda have never put a magnet on the drain plug for their engines, (Trans and Diff..yes)..
The S2 Oil Pan Magnet fits inside the OIL Pan, is Donut shape and mounts on a little pole.
Was first used on FC RX-7 only and S2 RX-8, not on any other rotary or FD RX-7.
Mazda also used the same magnet on banger Auto Trans and trucks.
Mazda have never put a magnet on the drain plug for their engines, (Trans and Diff..yes)..
The S2 Oil Pan Magnet fits inside the OIL Pan, is Donut shape and mounts on a little pole.
Was first used on FC RX-7 only and S2 RX-8, not on any other rotary or FD RX-7.
Mazda also used the same magnet on banger Auto Trans and trucks.
01-23-2010, 04:44 PM
#1193
Nope on both counts. First, the inside-the-oil-pan magnet has about 1000 times the surface area of the little oil plug magnets. If you get enough metal to overwhelm that, you're in for a new engine anyway. Second, steel is a pretty effective magnetic shield, so attaching a magnet to an outside surface results in a much lower field than you expect. That's why for these types to have any effect at all, they have to be *strong*.
01-23-2010, 06:55 PM
#1196
Yes, but I don't know if that's normal with just the ignition on, but the car not running. After about 30 seconds the light flashes, then stops. I hooked up and OBD code reader which didn't show any codes, though I'm not sure it was communicating properly.
01-23-2010, 07:18 PM
#1198
The "test" looks funny on all of the cars...so it is likely normal....You are chasing a red herring there likely anyway...
Is the Security light flashing? If so your "keys" may have been lost...and you would need them to be re-programmed. This happened to mine last year.....no reason..just decided it didn't want to keep the keys in the security module....never happened again...so all was good after
Is the Security light flashing? If so your "keys" may have been lost...and you would need them to be re-programmed. This happened to mine last year.....no reason..just decided it didn't want to keep the keys in the security module....never happened again...so all was good after
01-23-2010, 10:38 PM
#1199
Registered
Two of us installed the Mazmart kit today. Jason did not have gages. Mine does. Preliminary results look like the oil pressure did come up moderately on idle, nicely on revs and 100 lbs on high revs to about 7K. I have photos of the gages and tachometer together. This was done on jack stands. Tomorrow, I will drop it and take it for a ride and see what it's like on the road. Olddragger, Paul, and I will be going over the images on the GA RX8 club site and when we have everything set up, we will post here.
One very interesting note I wanted to go ahead and tell you guys. Paul brought out the 09 oil filters. While trying to install, I discovered the 09 will not fit on my car. I have the Racing Beat Gage Pod and the sending unit for the oil that sits directly under the filter renders my car unable to install the taller filter because the white plastic clip on the firewall is taking up the space needed for it. There is NO way it will go on there. Relocating the oil filter is an option but not one I plan to do anytime soon.
Photos to come.
One very interesting note I wanted to go ahead and tell you guys. Paul brought out the 09 oil filters. While trying to install, I discovered the 09 will not fit on my car. I have the Racing Beat Gage Pod and the sending unit for the oil that sits directly under the filter renders my car unable to install the taller filter because the white plastic clip on the firewall is taking up the space needed for it. There is NO way it will go on there. Relocating the oil filter is an option but not one I plan to do anytime soon.
Photos to come.
