HiFlite999

iTrader: (2)

Funny, just today, I got the '09 filter installed in mine, with a Prosport adapter block installed as well. The white plastic clips have 3 unused slots. I moved the brake line up one slot (along with the one on the passenger-side firewall, then took a hacksaw blade and cut off the now-unused slot. With that part of the clip missing, I could just manage to screw on an '09 filter.

I'll rev mine to 7k and check the pressure as soon as I can figure out why the electonics won't let me start the car again (see above), but 100 psi sounds good.

SilverEIGHT

Well, I couldn't stand it. I had to post this one photo with the RPM just below 4K and the oil temp at 100lbs while on the jack stands. Oil pressure is the center gage on the RB pod.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

the start up pressures will vary from engine to engine determined by if you have the eshaft pellet mod.
once the oil is warm the pressures will be similar. With a 5w/20 oil i have no idea what peak pressure you will see. Remeber the bypass mod will not work until the previous bypass pressure limit is exceded. So it is at the higher rpms where you will see the higher pressures.
Sounds like your battery is weak?
Get heavier wgt oil in?
Nice info on getting the 09 filter to clear the wall--it was late last night when we got around to this and we didnt get into lets see how we can make this work.
you will be surprise how much oil is left in the oil pan once you drain it!!
ODi

HiFlite999

iTrader: (2)

It's certainly amazing how much the oil pressure changes depending on temperture. The "100 psi" pic above, near as I can tell has rather low temps. Certainly it's higher than one can reach with the stock system though. I didn't write it down this time, but the difference in pressure at 3k rpm for 170F vs 205F was around 20 lbs.

I had just done the reference run with the old oil and filter on the modded OP system, when I tried to reset the NVRAM doing the 20-brake-stomps. Two minutes at most after running fine, it was dead after the reset. I charged the battery, checked for good voltage, and nothing. When I turn the key, the radio display shuts off normally, so the "desire" to start is there. The engine immobilizer dash light illuminates for 3 seconds, then goes out when I turn the ignition to the on position, just like it's supposed to. What I'm thinking is that the factory maps which are being recalled during reset were for some reason corrupted or not readable. It sounds like a trip to the dealer, where presumably their computer can reload the factory settings. Hopefully I don't get stuck with the tow bill for the 15 miles.

Yep, there's a lot of oil left over. That's why I had in my proceedure to put the plug back in before dropping the pan - a little tilt and the leftover oil ends up on your head.

I refilled with 15W-40 diesel Valvoline blue. I was stuck on the 09 filter clearance problem until I took a lil nap, and knew what to do when I got up. I'm a sneaky ol fart. It's gonna take a different wrench to get at it easily though.

SilverEIGHT

Does the 09 filter touch the firewall? I'm concerned about vibration from touching. I know it's tough to get a photo of that. I tried last night. I want to see how you modified it.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

hiflite--check the "engine fuse" in the fusebox under the hood. same thing happened to me a few yrs back--everything would work--but nothing to the starter . My fuse was blown.
OD

HiFlite999

iTrader: (2)

Nope doesn't touch, but that would indeed be deadly. What the filter would touch first is the plastic guide for the brake line. Behind that is the firewall insulation, so even then there's some give before interfering with the firewall.

Steps:

1) Pull the filter. Protect the oil filter opening from falling crap. Pop the brake line out of the plastic holders on the firewall and move it up one slot. (Caution: I couldn't find any other interferences in doing this, but you're on your own to check and make sure it doesn't induce a metal-to-metal contact somewhere which could eventually result in a hole in your brake line)

2) Take a hacksaw to the bottom lip of the plastic bracket, taking care not to scrape on the brake line (which is pretty protected by the holder). (The pic shows the hacksaw touching the next-to-the-bottom lip, you want to cut on the next one down.)

3) Clean up the mess, remove the old, and put on the new filter. You might have to find a different type of oil filter wrench as the Series II seems to be a little larger in diameter than Series I.

SilverEIGHT

HiFlite, your engine bay is entirely too clean. Would you please rub a little dirt on it for me! Also, follow up and let us know if there is any flex that causes contact on that filter when you change your oil next time. I'm not going to do this until I hear from you.

HiFlite999

iTrader: (2)

Good idea OD, unfortunately it is intact.

HiFlite999

iTrader: (2)

Well might be a long wait if I can't figure out why the bloody engine won't start.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

hmmmm-- starter will not turn over?
Engine fuse is Ok and everything else works and there are no codes?
Take starter off and run straight juice to it--just to check?
or try to crank it with the lights on bright and see if the lights dim.
OD

ASH8

I agree with Dan on this one "HiFlite"...I think it is your Keys..

Can you lock your car door with your keys button??..the electronic side of the key, not the key itself, does yours have the Trunk release button.

If you can't open or clock your car with your key's BUTTONS then this is the issue, your ECU is not registering the security key code.

You will need to re-program, I think you can do it without a Mazda Dealer, there is a thread here somewhere.

I think somehow you "may" have lost it when you did your 20 brake taps, or it just happened like Dan said??

Nemesis8

iTrader: (3)

OD told me to swap out that gauge for a 150 PSI gauge - looks like he was right.

Rote8

I would suggest a serious pair of nippers or dikes to cut that, the hack saw will not be as clean and will get plastic particles everywhere.

HiFlite999

iTrader: (2)

That'd be fine too - if you can manage to reach down in there with them.

HiFlite999

iTrader: (2)

Key Remote works just fine for the doors, but the trunk release button on the remote doesn't do anything. The button inside the car does still release the trunk. I can't recall ever having tried to use the remote trunk release though.

HiFlite999

iTrader: (2)

Starter will not turn over.
Engine fuse is indeed Ok.
Trying to crank with the headlights on does not change the brightness of the lights.

I talked on the phone with "the rotary guy" at the dealership: he's never encountered this problem. He suggested the "100 Amp main fuse, on the outside of the fuse box towards the engine" may be the problem. It's bloody cold in the garage and I'll wait until the weekend to give that a look and check for power down on the starter.

As a physicist, I'm not supposed to believe in such things, but I'm beginning to think that changing the starter on my Toyota last weekend, killed the starter on the Mazda. Quantum Karma??

HiFlite999

iTrader: (2)

Uh, I found what my starting problem was. All is well. Please, please, please don't make me tell you what it was. How do you spell Alzheimer's?



I took some more data, which I'll post over in the thread dedicated to the OP mod.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

If the main fuse is blown..you will have nothing much..you would notice that

The stupid security module on mine "lost" the key codes...no idea why....gave me the same symptoms..everything OK..but turn the key and nothing happened. The Security light should be flashing though if that is the problem

There is a test protocol for the Keyless entry System.......What year is your car?? I have the 06 manual....So I know it works for an 06..

Remove key from steering lock
Close all doors and the trunk lid

Perform the following within 24 sec:

Insert key into steering lock
Do the following 4 times: Turn IGN to ON then back to LOCK position
Then push the driver side door switch 3 times

If everything is OK the following will happen:

All doors Lock
Drivers door unlocks
Passenger door unlocks
Trunk lid opens
Horn sounds twice and Hazards flash

If the above doesn't happen then there is further diagnostics based on what worked and what didn't

Try that and get back to us

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Sure...make me type all that for nothing

Nemesis8

iTrader: (3)

^ That sounds like the Hokey Pokey dance or something...

Mazmart

iTrader: (12)

I was going to ask you whether you removed the exciter wire from the starter solenoid for anything .

Paul .

SilverEIGHT

hahaha... Not gonna ask but at 57... dude, I'm very familiar with oldtimer's!

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Come on...spill...we like egg on the face...

Or Pants on the Ground

HiFlite999

iTrader: (2)

Well most of my previous MT cars didn't have one of something on this electrical diagram that I was tracing out ... doh!