Ah. I didn't take class rules into consideration.
Anyway, I still believe an aluminum radiator now will save you the hassle later, doing the same disassembly two times. Oem radiator gets brittle with age.

 

hopefully you can get it all back together and plan a fan and radiator together for the future now that you know what it takes :P Im for sure gonna be making a custom shroud for some 420's soon

 

That's my plan.

Next question... How important are the ducts for the battery box and ECU?

 

You definitely wanna keep the little plastic ducts thats the only way to cool the inside of that box . I dont think the battery has one ive relocated mine to the coolant tank area with an oddysey pc680

 

All back together and good news but mostly bad news...

good news is new coolant, bled, cleaned radiator/condenser and straightened fins and the bottom line is it cools better. Last time it took 5 minutes of idling with a/c on to get to 220. Now after 20 min it would only get to 215.

that brings the bad news. The passenger fan still does not work. I bench tested the new motor and it ran with 12v direct. I bench tested the old one and nothing. So the motor was definitely bad but still does not work.

i will pull the air box out and recheck on the plugs. I tested relay one and two and they both switch over. Relay 1 plug does have 12v constant on one leg. Relay 2 does not, but I believe relay one needs to be switched.

any thoughts?

 

maybe you still just havent got hot enough? seems like i heard somewhere 216 or 218 was the temp for it to come on

switch the relays obv and see if the other fan still works , check continuity between the wire at the fan and where it connects to the relay, with the relay out . see if there is any resistance

 

The passenger fan comes on when I jump relay one and the car is cold. It will not come on once the car is heated up and I jump the relay. However the fan will work if I give the blade a push. I measured 2.5 volts at the fan plug when jumping relay one. I am guessing that is low speed and there is not enough voltage to spin the motor.

i am not too concerned about that as long as it comes on high. Not sure the exact temp in need to hit for that.

 

ECU controls the speed of the fans but there are 3 relays controlling the 2 fans so not really sure how its dealt with. There is a cooling fan relay mod kit somewhere offered. Check the 40A fan fuse and switch all the relays see what happens at temp...

Maybe bad temp sensor if its separate from your gauge i dunno

 

Temp gauge is good, have obd2 hookup. Drove around and temps range from 180-210. However, I feel if I pushed it hard with the a/c, I could have gone past that. Both fans work now, but the passenger fan turns slow. I need to drive it more to get a good baseline. Down the road I think I will need more cooling, both water and air.

 

if you know the control, reading, and operation is normal for everything up to the relay's 12v supply and you dont get it at the fan when you should, it can only be the relay or wire going to the fan that is not co-operating

Hope you figure it out! you can actually have too much cooling you wanna be at proper operating temp not too cool . make sure the stock thermostat temp is maintained

 

The fan works, it just spins slow. As far as the performance, I think they are doing most of what they should. My understanding of the fan control is both fans are not on 100% until about 227. I think I would shut down the car before hitting that number.

I can see the coolant flowing into the bottle around 180* so I think the stat is working fine. I need to drive it around and get a feel for its range. From what I can tell the coolant system is not up to a track day as of right now. Temps do not recover fast enough when driving at high speed. I found out the radiator is not the calsonic, just a replacement that has the ports for the auto trans. A new radiator maybe in my future anyway.

At this point, this issue is solved for now. I will monitor temps and plan on a coolant upgrade in the future.

Thank you